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Showing results for tags 'sub'.
Found 22 results
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B2 Audio X2C 15 $650 shipped! Contact at 440-915-2309 for further questions/concerns.
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Somewhat blown (sub still plays) Sundown X v.2 motor. $150 shipped! Basket included. Contact at 440-915-2309 for further questions/concerns.
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Hello everyone, long time no see. I am selling a pair of Dual 2-ohm (technically D1.7) 12" Sundown X v.2's built by Dave Leib a.k.a "Strongman Designs." Reason I am selling them is because I realized upon testing to see if my digital multi-meter was working correctly that one of the coils is reading higher on the one sub indicating that too much heat had been applied to it recently so rather than risking any further damage to it I am going to assume that I have too much power for these. Having said this in all honesty, let me make it perfectly clear here that both subs are still in perfect working order as we speak, even the one that is reading differently. Had I not thrown my multi-meter on it to test it in order to see if it was working properly (the multi-meter itself) I would have never known there was any difference or discrepancy between the two. However, because one of them is reading off now and I do not know what is to be expected out of it's performance long-term I will be letting these go for $500+ shipping (that includes both). Any further questions or concerns please feel free to text me at 440-915-2309 Phil
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B2 Audio subs and custom Cherryman Box For Sale
DedicatedEnthusiast posted a topic in For Sale/Wanted
I am selling a pair of B2 Audio X2C 15's that were assembled by Jay Holm in Denmark and custom modded for me and my extreme daily driving abuse. I am willing to let them go for $1,000 each shipped or $1,800 for the pair. Reason I am selling them is because they have managed to crack not one but two gas tanks now on my car, I can provide shop receipts for anyone who would like to see proof. Also they have broken the spoiler wing off my trunk a long time ago so are basically destroying my car and I cannot afford to keep fixing it. The link below shows a video of the subs and system playing from B2 Audio's YouTube page. I do not own the video that they edited here but I did submit the original footage to them from my cell phone for the fans and public to see. The box was built by Cherryman Customs in Tennessee and is double layered (1.5" thick) all the way around. It is 10 cu ft net inside with a tuning of 27hz and has a lexan glass bullet proof window that provides view of the subs inside with red L.E.D. lights that illuminate. Measurements are 36" W x 20.5" H x 46" D If interested I am willing to let it go for $500 picked up or you pay shipping. Any additional questions or concerns please feel free to PM and ask me. -
Like-New 18" EMF ermagerd Dual 1 (except needs recone)
DedicatedEnthusiast posted a topic in For Sale/Wanted
Alright guys, here is a single 18" EMF audio ermagerd Dual 1 (can be wired down to 0.5 ohm) that needs to be reconed. The recone will run you $200 so you can have a brand new 6,500 watt RMS sub for just $600 since I am offering this unit shipped anywhere in the U.S. for $400, NO TRADES. This thing was able to handle a b2 audio m1u at 0.5 ohms for literally hours at a time until I got greedy and started clipping it with the gain. It got louder and lower than any other dual sub set-up I have ever had or owned and I have run kicker, SSA and Fi car audio to name a few. It will take the power and handle the abuse as long as the signal and power you are feeding it is clean. Weighs in at just over 100lbs, features a super stupid silly insane HIGH-roll rubber surround and nearly 4" of peak-to-peak excursion with a true carbon-fiber dust cap and quad-stack magnet/motor. Any further questions or concerns please feel free to ask me. Phil -
Polyurethane vs Resin for weather/water-proofing your box
DedicatedEnthusiast posted a topic in Technical Info & How To's
Hi guys I was wondering whether standard polyurethane or a UV activated resin would be better for applying directly to MDF wood in order to protect it from the elements of rain ice and snow basically is one product more durable or reliable than another with respect to weather-proofing wood thanks -
Best Head-Unit for expensive sub-stage and bass alone (NOT mids/highs)
DedicatedEnthusiast posted a topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Looking to upgrade my entry-level pioneer DEH-14UB Head Unit IF it will make a worthwhile difference in output or sound level mainly on my sub-stage going with a 4-6v pre-out upper-class pioneer, kenwood or alpine deck. Tell me what do you guys think? I already have the entry-level pioneer wired to a clarion MCD-360 crossover with 5v max output voltage so am I really going to notice a difference in the bass production from the subs or no?? All comments and opinions are appreciated thanks:) -
Hey everyone, i'll get straight to the point. I'm selling my Fi BL 18" Sub in a 29hz box 40" long 17" high 24" deep (not 100% positive on this I will have to double check) along with my Hifonics Brutus brz2400.1D amp. It's a dvc-2 ohm sub. I bought this sub around late January. I've had it installed in my car for only 2-3 weeks. It was an impulse buy and if I didn't desperately need the cash I would keep it without a doubt. The amp and all the wiring was bought around the same time as the sub from sonicelectronix and I paid for a 3-year warranty. The power and ground cables are 1/0awg knukonceptz and the rca cables, remote wire, and speaker wire are part of a kit I got awhile pack from elite audio. I have 2 inline fuse holders with a 300a fuse and a 150a fuse. A couple ring terminals as well. The dust cap is blue and I have the cooling and flat wind options and the daily option selected. $433 with shipping, ~$100 for the wires, $300 for the amp with the warranty and I paid $200 for the box which has fiberglass insulation. I have the original box Fi sent the sub in and the amp. I don't know how much it would cost to ship a box that big, so without the box I would sell it all as a package for $650. quickest way to contact me to discuss anything would be texting me @ 574-323-3166. Thank you.
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Hey guys... I'm going to try and sell this amp since I have no sub stage at all and need to fix the suspension still on my Camry... It is in fact a JL 500/1 v2 .... Perfect condition, minor signs of wear... worked flawlessly when I had it powering my 15" Xcon @ 2 ohms ... Looking to sell it for $180 + shipping ... Cont US ... Stupid site won't let me link photos direct from G+!!!!! FCKING A here is the album link https://plus.google.com/photos/101565492437974599649/albums/5923313635370597009?authkey=CKL31Z-uocyu7wE Let's get him sold people!!! Thanks for looking!
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Managing my sound system...
Michael Simpson posted a topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Alright, I'm sort of confused, and have spent hours/Days/weeks trying to figure this all out, but I'm sort of just in between ideas at the moment. I was told you guys were the best, and so I've come here! If you have any ideas, any help would greatly be appreciated. and I've tried to help out as much as I can in terms of information.. So essentially I'm at the stage where I already have; HU - AVIC-F910BT (http://www.pioneer.eu/eur/products/archive/AVIC-F910BT/page.html) Which for quick reference has Front, Rear and Sub pre-outs. 6x9's - JL C2-690TX (http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Speakers/Rear_Speakers/JL_Audio_C2-690TX_6x9_Speakers#.UgkNupIy1x9) and a 2 channel to run them for the mean time..Rated @70W RMS x 2... Conveniently. For now I'm planning to rewire the current speakers to a four channel amp (I was thinking http://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Amplifiers/Multi-Channel/Boss_Audio_PH4.500_4-Channel_2000W_Amplifier#incar-speaker ?) Then setting the gains down to suit (it is a rather powerful Amplifier for the speakers). After that it's wiring up the amp I already have with the 6x9's, and hooking it all back up to the HU. With the aim to upgrade to Alpine Type R's (possibly four components) in the near future! And the sub (after that... As for my questions! RCA's - How do I get it done?! I was thinking a 1M-2F connector, hooking that up to the 4 CH via Front-out? Using rear-out for 6x9 amp and keeping the other spot free for the sub/amp? The reason for the rear doors is because I don't want the system to be too low-end heavy in the back (with a sub and 2x 6x9's). Good call? Essentially the amp would be running at 50% of it's capacity.. Is that too low? When the new one's are in I'll be setting gains on the point before they clip (I've been told they're severely underrated @ 110W RMS.. it would get the amp to near 70% of 'RMS' power) Would it be better to run two four channels, bridging one output for the sub, or three amps (Keeping in mind i have the 2 channel already.. or 2x 4CH listed above is powerful enough)? Are capacitors advised/essential / how do they work (Any "4-dummy's" explanation would be fantastic!) Speaker wiring.... I've been told 10/12AWG for subs, and 16AWG would be best-suit for the other speakers. Accurate? Using Seperate ground wiring for each amp.. is that how it should be done? Am I missing any crucial parts? (Bar obviously wiring, and power cable splitter) Anything else? (Advice? ) Thanks in advance for any and all help! Michael -
Hooked the RedStar Neo up to 110volts on each coil and let her go.... Good times!! http://youtu.be/XglfJ10tryA
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I would like help with a design of a box for a Sundown Audio SA 12" sub woofer , that is 12" at the bottom, 8" at the top 17" tall and 30" long, with the sub woofer mounted on the slanted side. I would like it to be ported, and tuned to 32 HZ. Again, 3/4" MDF 12" bottom 8" top 17" tall 30" long Tuned to 32 HZ Sub-woofer mounted on slanted side Truck-box style.
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Hello everyone, I have exactly 2k to spend on a new system. I'm not sure what to buy exactly, I'm looking for good speakers(x4), a single 15 with an enclosure and an amp that can hold all of that. What would you guys prefer?
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Up for grabs is my 15" Xcon...minor scuffs, almost minty.... been running sealed off a Crescendo BC3500D ..... Have to go smaller as my suspension on my Camry cannot handle the extra weight.... sadly need to part with it Price is $325 OBO + actual shipping costs..... sale closed .... sale closed
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Have a 12" GCON in a sealed box. It sounds great but I am wanting more and I know the sub will give it to me if I can put it in the right enclosure. I used the ICON enclosure design for the sealed box it is in now, would the ICON ported design work well for the GCON as well? It falls into the optimal range, 2.5f^3 tuned to 33hz. It is a 2 ohm sub with 500 watts powering it in the trunk of a '96 accord. I have about 32" x 20" x 18" to work with. Anyone have any experience or recommendations for a ported box design that will work well with the GCON?
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2005 dodge ram 1500 I have this massive triple sub 10", shared lower vent, chambered box 16.5x20x49(with port).... port size is 2.25"x49"x12.5". I have 2 alpine swr-10d4(1000rms-3000peak), and one swr-1043d(600 rms-1800peak). all were previously ran in parallel @ 1 ohm (i think) going to a rockford fosgate t1000.1 power series. Suprisingly it hardely even got warm and pushes them hard. BTW!!= I just yesterday wired in my red top underneath my back seat and i have that wired to the bullz audio 2f cap=> everything wired to that...(i have a normal stock truck battery up front) My questions: 1.Is my port the right length?(can it sound better if made longer/shorter/complete chamber) 2. Is the box itself too big or is it ok? 3. Where can i find a wiring diagram or does somone know how to do 1ohm to all 3 speakers or just two? 4. [would having a diff rms sub on the same 1ohm wire do anything bad?] if so. 5. i have a 1600 boss amp that i've wired into my truck in my current setup of a center console box i made(but it seems to be having a hard time pushing it because it goes onto "protect" mode alot.) 6. should i get rid of my capacitor and stick with just the two batterys? And i have a 1600 boss 800.2 amp and two kicker cvr 12" 05cvr124(400rms-800peak) that im selling to a friend and i was looking for a badass ported box design thats loud going into the back of his old jeep...the available space is{length from back seat to rear door}x{width fromside to side of car}x{height} 25"x35"x15" (If i want to be able to slide it in from the back without him having to take off his top or putting it in from the front) if not then 25"x35"x MIN(15")MAX(30")... My questions:1. I also have some nice component speakers laying around... could i cut holes for them too?[would i need to chamber them completly off from the subs?] im open to any ideas i can make some crazy stuff. My current setup is a center console box with the two swr-10d4's (recently attempted to invert the one closest to front and doesnt sound right) going to that rockford fosgate t1000.1bd... and when i inverted i hooked one to the boss amp and another to the fosgate from the capacitor...but just didnt sound right... i have a problem when they are both right side up... the way the box is made all the air space is at the ground and the sub closest to front gets pushed out further and clips...i also beleive the box is just barely over the minimum for sealed air space. My questions: 1. take out the capacitor= just 2 batteries 2. i tried to invert it? and couldnt find a diagram to reverse polarity but idk if thats what i need to do or what. 3. port it maybe? but how?--- p.s. everything is perfectly sealed on both boxes.
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Hey guys I have a Fi BL 15" fully loaded woofer on the way. I will be building my box very soon here. I'm going to be running a Sundown 1500 D amp to it. I will listen mostly to low HZ rap or bass songs. I am looking for 32 HZ. Few questions: - Can someone give me some measurements for a ported box that is meant specifically for a BL 15" with 1500 RMS going to it? - I have read that this sub woofer recommends a 3-5 cu ft box. Does leaning towards 5 cu ft box have any benefits in SPL? -Any internal box bracing necessary with 3/4 " MDF wood? - Any cotton material necessary inside the box? Thank you
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Need some advice\input, Looking to build an outdoor\patio subwoofer enclosure and find a suitable subwoofer to put in it. I am completely new to outdoor audio, my initial thoughts were a marine subwoofer and a birch box doused in resin and truck bedliner? Again, TOTALLY new to all of this so i may be way off. Whatever the sub and enclosure material, they will both need to stand up to the very muggy, hot central indiana summer weather. Sealed or possibly PR enclosure, Will be powered by a dayton 150 watt amp. Any and all input is greatly appreciated, thanks.
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hey everyone, so, soon I will be getting a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have the majority of my system ready to install. (please dont judge, i was not as educated when i bought this stuff) Rockford Fosgate P2 12" (2011 model) (it meh...), Rockford R500-1 amp (low efficiency, 58% @ 2 ohms) , Sony CDX-GT565UP (love it), and KnuKonceptz 4 gauge kit. right ow I have a crappy box to test with, its 1.72 cuft tuned to 31Hz via 4" aero. I will be building a 2-2.2 cuft box tuned to 32 once i am sure how i want the port and sub positioned. the current box i have the sub is on one side and the port on the other. so it will be easy to experiment how it will be positioned. my question is, how should i position my sub and port? i will test and tune once i get the jeep, but im curious if anyone is/was in the same position and could give some advise. im thinking either sub up center, port back driver side. or sub up center, port side (driver). any opinions? I guess im just eager haha. thanks for your help!
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I currently have a 2005 single cab Dodge Ram 1500. I recently ordered a Sundown Audio SA-8 D4 v.1. I have a 1k Hifonics Mono Amp i was hoping to push this sub with. Im having issues getting a box design. I built my own and friends boxes but only merely guessing needed airspace and very unfamiliar with tuning. I under stand its got to do with the driver, box volume and port length and size but beyond that im a noob. From reading around I've seen that these subs need about .5-.75 cubs of box at about 30 to 40hz? My first box attempt was around .6cubs but the port was about 1"x8" and only 27" long which im almost positive is incorrect because the sub will not even do any notes below 40hz with tones. I need some assistance on where i should start box wise and if it would be possible to fit 2 of these subs in the back of my truck. To give and idea of what the space is like I currently have a 4.cub box with 2kicker 12's behind the seats. the box is around 40+"x11x14. Im sure there's room is mainly the videos from YouTube with these subs with ports bigger than the actual box space is what scares me. I appreciate the future help.
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Ok, I was getting ready to order some 10 gauge Knu speaker wire. Then I called a friend and he said he had about 40 feet of 8 gauge Knu wire. My question is can I use the 8 gauge or would it be overkill for the power I'm running? I will be upgrading amps in the future so if I use the 8 gauge I'll be set.
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My friend just got a 01 golf gti and wants a straight SPL sub. I told him just run a 12 since he wants to keep some space. What is a good all out SPL sub for daily loudness? His budget is $500. He doesn't care about sound. Also power will be off a 2k either dc or crescendo.
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