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Hello everyone, just wanted to say hi. Came across this site on the Sundown page. Continuing to learn and looking to build great sub boxes.

Hey everyone I signed up here awhile back, but have only been able to lurk here and there. Anyway I'm gonna pull the trigger soon and get a sub stage, but I'm not sure which sub/subs I want to buy. My new sub stage will pretty much be 2 12's in a ported box or maybe one 15 in a ported box depending on how much room I have or don't have.. I've looked through the 12'' subs in the store section from all the brands and a couple of 15's but leaning more towards 12's. My goal for the sub stage is pretty much output/loudness. I need some help/recommendations from you guys please and I'll provide more info if you guys need to know anything else. Sidenote: Car is a 2011 Ford Fusion SE Thanks

So I'm in the Midwestspl local and I'm going to change my class to nationals and was wondering if any body on here is from the same group "Midwestspl" that in the basic 4 class that can tell me how tall my box can be I know it to the window line but my 2005 tahoe has to different window line heights the side window is higher than the back hatch window...more ? To come once that one is answer.

Alright, there has been a lot of discussion and I want your opinion! For an Integra, which is the best box for an all out SPL build? (and gets low) Wall behind the driver/passenger seatsSub up, port backSub up, port frontSub back, port backSub front, port front

So since my first box I have wanted to do an enclosure with no space restrictions. A build that focuses on cone area and low tuning. Subs are HDS200's (ordered one already to see if I like them, I will post pictures here when it gets here) Soundqubed is very vague with there enclosure recommendations and i'm looking for a more specialized design My first dilemma is with the box and is if I should go with a 2x2 pattern such as this: Or a 4x1 pattern such as this: (ported though) My only real limits are what can fit through my doorframe's in my house. I was playing with the RE Box Calculator and I can make both styles fit. I want between 12-19 cubes. (<---cant believe i'm serious with this) tuned low to 28-35 hrz It can be enormous, only one of the dimensions needs to conform to the doorframe's

Was up, Ive been here a bunch of times and just now am I starting to post, This forum has changed and I like it, vs when I originally signed up..I mainly hung out on the OG PG Phorum, DIYaudo,Diyma,sd etc under the same user name of Freshkryp69, Ive sold tons of amps on ebay but haven't in awhile (sick of paypals shit).. I Had another kid in 07 my beautiful daughter and I put everything on the back burner audio wise, but kept most of my equipment for that one day, now my kids are 19 & 6 in school full time so now I have time to play again! In my noob days I thought I was the shit for figuring out that the $15 roll of asphalt based Peel-n-Seal worked great for sound deadener , or so I thought at the time! Untill the 3 layers on my roof made the headliner sag from FL heat hitting the roof, and coming unstuck from everywhere I stuck it. The dam price of Deadener has "sky rocketed" for no apparent reason since my last install. I bought 200sqft of "Fat Mat" for $200 shipped from ebay. Now for anything decent its $175-200 for 100sqft and you'd be lucky if it's really 80mils! WTF gives? The usual, "it's selling like hot cakes so charge more"..? Only a few advancements have been made in sound deadening and that's due to material used. What I had back then is the same shit as they have today, aluminum/butyl, anything with reasonable cost is made from the same materials. Just twice the cost now.. Up until 07 I had a slammed 98 Dodge Avenger v6, I had +200sqft of deadener installed, from top to bottom,front to back.. dash out and everything. The doors had up to 7 layers total of deadener, to achieve that sweet thud when being shut and NO rattles, (inside of outer panel x 2 layers, inside and outside of inner door panel, all 3 places it should be on a door), double up everywhere else. Yea I know I went over board, but that was the point! Made a Huge difference, I need that much coverage to get those results, it changed the whole car, the experience driving it, a lot less road noise, which needed to be realized to justify all the sq amps,equip etc I was buying. I have 2 ID-Max 12's but wanted more output. Then I made the a decision that completely defeated My SQ goals by buying in 06 a RE XXX D2 12", I had a enclosure made, 2.8cf @ 30hz and 2 usa-2000's (green boards) 1 on each coil, It was pucking nuts! And completely over powered my 2 way PRS comp's and imaging tweets I had up front, all being amp'd by 3 Orion Nt200's. The point is, nothing rattled except my sunroof, which broke the tracks and fapped like no tomorrow.. Now I have a 03 Silverado etx cab will a fiberglass bed cover, one of the nice one's that lift up in the back with the help of gas cylinders painted the same color as my truck. And now I'm set out to do a "Blow Thru" 4th order, it's the only way I can do anything and keep the rear seat is to use the entire bed for equipment with a blow thru setup. And now I'm back to the first thing that needs to be done, deadening again, and I'm just not seeing the justification for 2 x the cost for the same product. Anyone know where to get 200sf for $200? Later Brad

Alright I'm looking for advice on a sub box design for an Sa-12 that will give as much SPL as possible - without sounding terribly peaky. I'm willing to compromise on Spl for a frequency curve that would be acceptable for normal music listening- hip hop, rock, and country. sub is on JX 1000/1 - if you have questions about my vehicle and setup - look on my profile first under "About Me" and then ask me if the info you want is not there. Member Quentin Jarrell said "I would build the enclosure 1.75 cubic feet net tuned to 32 hertz. This will give you a 3db ripple (boost) at 35 herts and give you a F3 (-3db) at 26 hertz. This will give you the sense of exaggerated bass output. You can go smaller down to 1.25 feet but keep tuning at 32hz and do not go over 1.75 feet as group delay would be higher than desirable. " So, taking that advice into account, I would appreciate a box design that would stay within my dimensions designed to these specifications- Dimensions that would be good for me - a wedge- style box - Material- 3/4" MDF Within "constrained by" these dimensions -Its a truck- box type design 7" depth top12" depth bottom16" tall30" longTuning and design -wise 1.75 cubes NET tuned to 32 hz -Of course if it can be made smaller (less volume) without a significant compromise in audio quality or output - that would be great - if not its okay it will fit.The port on the left side when looking at the sub would be great. I would like to trim down the length if it can be made smaller I would like help with a design that would meet these specifications. I may even attempt to build this box myself if it is feasible

Hey guys, I just want to get some input on a burp box for 2 12" BL's fully loaded. This will be for a cross over and running 1000 or 2000 watts. Right now the system is up to 148.4 on 1800 watts with a some what music box. What I want to do is build the burp box so the subs are back and the port on the side. The info and input I need is the size of the box and the size of the port. Im 99% set on using a aeroport and was thinking 8" but would 8" be to small? Some people say the box needs to be big like 5 cubes and some say small like 3 cubes. So im a bit lost on where to start lol.

Hey guys I have a Fi BL 15" fully loaded woofer on the way. I will be building my box very soon here. I'm going to be running a Sundown 1500 D amp to it. I will listen mostly to low HZ rap or bass songs. I am looking for 32 HZ. Few questions: - Can someone give me some measurements for a ported box that is meant specifically for a BL 15" with 1500 RMS going to it? - I have read that this sub woofer recommends a 3-5 cu ft box. Does leaning towards 5 cu ft box have any benefits in SPL? -Any internal box bracing necessary with 3/4 " MDF wood? - Any cotton material necessary inside the box? Thank you

making a custom enclosure for two sundown sa12's. which would be the best box for them? no dimensions yet, not quite sure how to calculate the volume of a ported box. --obviously the port is not to scale with the rest of the box, just gives an idea-- i felt i could draw them out better than explain them, even though they are the common boxes. feedback? suggestions? everything helps.

Holds 4 10" speakers and 4 supertweeters. Also a slot for a half DIN EQ. It is wrapped in graphite vinyl now, but for some extra I can wrap it in whatever you would like if you need me to. It is not sealed in so it won't work for subs, but that can be fixed. It housed Eminence Delta mids and Selinium tweeters. Asking a mere $200 picked up. I will ship but your paying for it. Any questions don't hesitate to ask.

I have a question for anyone on here that has experience with 6th order enclosures or blow-through boxes. I have finally gathered everything I needed for my build in my silverado (standard box). The part that has been bothering me is that the build that I originally based my idea on was Jack Chisam's Sleeper. The basic design was a series ported 6th order with the front chamber untuned and the back tuned around 30hz. it is a 3:1 ratio 6th order. The woofers I chose were the Zcons (6) and I am running them from a American Bass 1100.1 (maybe 2 in the future). The amp and batteries are in the very back of the bed on the back side of the box. So, with all this being said here are my concerns... Will the larger cab space of the extended cab (not crew) effect the resonant frequency of the Truck? If yes how so? Jack (single cab) was doing like 150 on music at around 25hz (I was hoping to be closer to 154, a little higher is fine) how would you suggest changing the enclosure? I was hoping to run the truck in Psychlone since the build is stealth and meets all the bonus point requirements. Any input you may have is greatly appreciated!

hey i wassup i have a 2000 yukon SLT "profile pic is the truck" on 26's i wanted to do 6 SMD 15'' subs in a clamshell box tuned @ 30hz with 2-3 400a alts and 3 runs of 0 gauge wire with at least 8-12 D3100's from Xs Power batts and a ABVM from Mechman any idea's of what i should do in this bad boy i also though about doing 8-12 SA12s from Sundown audio i want to run at least 18-25krms clean power in this truck so any ideas for subs and amps that will help me achieve this goal?

I have a 1989 chevy caprice i want to build a box in the trunk any ideas of what type of box also i would like to get at least 4 xs batterys any ideas on group size or type xp series or D. (Will get more batterys if needed) 4 12" ssa zcon d2 2 CRESCENDO BC5500D 220AMP ALTENATOR

My friend just got a 01 golf gti and wants a straight SPL sub. I told him just run a 12 since he wants to keep some space. What is a good all out SPL sub for daily loudness? His budget is $500. He doesn't care about sound. Also power will be off a 2k either dc or crescendo.