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PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers.... This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part) Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system. The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound. This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable. These are totally different than your standard coaxial speaker If you look at the graph on the 6mr500ndy, which sounds amazing, you'll see that it can play from 90hz to 12,000hz... but if you narrow it down to what is plays "best" and more "naturally" it’s closer to 200hz to 10,000hz. Yes, it can play down to 50hz but not efficiently and not as well as 200 and up. Very low volume that would be fine but in what we do with the speaker you will want to cross it over closer to 200-300hz I get a lot of PMs asking if this speaker will pick up where my subs leave off? … around 60-80hz. I say no but the specs say "yes”. 99-13k so that may be a little confusing if you don’t look at the graph and understand what information it has in it So, for someone interested in using this speaker as a voice speaker, which I HIGHLY recommend, you will also need a "midbass" speaker to go with it such as a 10mb800 or 10mb500 or 8mb450. This leads me to another piece of information. PRV model numbers have an "MR”, “MB", "SW" or "W" in between the size of the driver and wattage of the individual speaker. MR=midrange MB=midbass W=woofer SW=subwoofer This is a general guideline for what the speaker is geared towards. That doesn’t mean an 8mb450 can’t be used for midrange or and 8mr400 can’t be used for midbass. That is where the graph and interpretation of the graph comes into play There is a lot more that goes into designing your front stage or your "voice" speakers that one of these days I’ll try and have a more in depth write up. The possibilities are endless...

Hello, I have problem with choosing speakers (I'm just new in car audio), but I got 2 power amplifiers - CONCORD CA 2075 (300W),they are both 2 channel. One of them is bridged and connected to bass tube (raveland 400W). Second one will be connected to 4 speakers (2 x front 165mm, 2 x rear 130mm) , and I need to buy them, but I don't know how to compute how much Watts those speakers should have when i will connect them to this 300W power amplifier, which would have 2 speakers connected to + and - "left" and next 2 speakers for + and - "right". (You don't need to give me models of speakers cause idk if they will be available in my country, just give me how much watts they should have and I would really happy ;D) And my question is can i connect wires going out of radio (normally to speakers now they are going to power amplifier) and cinch wires both at the same time??? (just got both with this stuff and I don't especially know if it's right :P Ps. sorry for any mistakes caused by my english abilities :/

Hello everyone, long time no see. I am selling a pair of Dual 2-ohm (technically D1.7) 12" Sundown X v.2's built by Dave Leib a.k.a "Strongman Designs." Reason I am selling them is because I realized upon testing to see if my digital multi-meter was working correctly that one of the coils is reading higher on the one sub indicating that too much heat had been applied to it recently so rather than risking any further damage to it I am going to assume that I have too much power for these. Having said this in all honesty, let me make it perfectly clear here that both subs are still in perfect working order as we speak, even the one that is reading differently. Had I not thrown my multi-meter on it to test it in order to see if it was working properly (the multi-meter itself) I would have never known there was any difference or discrepancy between the two. However, because one of them is reading off now and I do not know what is to be expected out of it's performance long-term I will be letting these go for $500+ shipping (that includes both). Any further questions or concerns please feel free to text me at 440-915-2309 Phil

In honor of the men and women whose sacrifices provide us with the freedoms that make America what it is, Second Skin is offering discounts on our made in the USA products. From May 26th – May 30th use the coupon codes below to receive 10% - 15% - 20% off your order. Have a safe and happy Memorial Weekend! Use the following codes at checkout: Orders $75 And Up Use: FREEDOM10 Orders $200 And Up Use: HONOR15 Orders $350 And Up Use: AMERICA20 (Shipping Not Included) WWW.SECONDSKININSULATION.COM

• Neodymium radial slug motors for extreme speaker control and sensitivity • Full copper pole-piece sleeve for low distortion and inductance • Durable cast aluminum frame A bumped backplate, vented pole piece, vented magnet assembly, Kapton® former, and treated-cloth surround allow for high power handling, while protecting this driver from extreme transient power peaks. Available now at SSA Store: http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/prv-audio-5mr450-ndy-5-inch-8-ohm-mid-bass.html http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/prv-audio-5mr450-ndy-4-5-inch-4-ohm-mid-bass.html http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/prv-audio-6mr500-ndy-4-6-inch-4-ohm-mid-bass.html http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/prv-audio-6mr500-ndy-6-inch-8-ohm-mid-bass.html http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/prv-audio-8mr600-ndy-8-inch-8-ohm-mid-bass.html

Looking to upgrade my entry-level pioneer DEH-14UB Head Unit IF it will make a worthwhile difference in output or sound level mainly on my sub-stage going with a 4-6v pre-out upper-class pioneer, kenwood or alpine deck. Tell me what do you guys think? I already have the entry-level pioneer wired to a clarion MCD-360 crossover with 5v max output voltage so am I really going to notice a difference in the bass production from the subs or no?? All comments and opinions are appreciated thanks:)

Got two 12'' Fi SSD's for sale that are literally less than six months old. They sound absolutely amazing in fact my ears were ringing after having listened to them for ten to fifteen minutes straight or so just the other day. They come with stock copper coils (meant for daily musical play) and cooling option for an additional 2-500 watts or so of increased power handling (giving each speaker an average of 1200-1500 watts RMS power handling for a total combined amount of 2400-3000 watts power handling) depending upon the install. The price for the pair is $450 shipped to your door in all of Fi's original packaging. Shipping alone runs right around $80 for the pair even if new from Fi so the price per speaker outside of shipping cost is actually about $185. These things look and sound practically brand new. The ONLY reason I am selling them is because i ended up getting a much larger than anticipated alternator installed and would like to take advantage of its abilities with larger more powerful speakers soon. It may be sort of hard to see my SSA username at the top of my sales sheet in the pictures below due to the lighting when they were taken but if you tilt your computer screen back and away from you I find that it is much easier to see that way. Please feel free to PM me with any additional questions or concerns:)

Hi SSA, I have been looking around car audio forums and have decided that this would be the best place to join as I am trying to get honest answers to some questions that I have about a system that I want to build. A bit of background on me. I am a resident of New Mexico and have a degree in EE. I have always enjoyed listening to all types of music and consider myself, at least somewhat, an listening enthusiast. I had an '03 Toyota Matrix upgraded with two of the OLD Alpine type R 10" subwoofers, Alpine head unit and a whole host of different components powered off a 45W alpine 4 channel amp. Alpine fan at the time. I currently have an '08 Chevy Cobalt Coupe with fully upgraded exhaust, read LOUD, and completely stock, read SUX, stereo which I am looking to upgrade. I did the custom look with everything exposed on the Matrix but I am looking to keep everything as stock looking as possible in my Cobalt. (Don't want it to be a target.) I will be starting another thread to ask about speakers and such for my listening style, hard rock to heavy metal including Double Bass and Violin. Thanks, Hayestc