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Hey guys what's up...so I'm new to all this car audio forum stuff and am trying to fumble f__k my way through this post....so here it is...I am old school and have all old school shit....I'm looking at powering this beast of a system.....I have all of this in an 04 toyota tundra access cab limited.....basically I have around 20k of power needs....I'm running 2 DVC 10's by cerwin vega...2 DVC 12's by cerwin vega...3 different cerwin 6.5 component systems...head unit is 10.6 inch touchscreen with every bell and whistle imaginable....for power I'm old school also with a lanzar 8k velocity amp..(2 channel) for the 10's...a lanzar 2.5k velocity amp...(4 channel) for components.....a power acoustic 10k amp for my 12's.....I have a stinger 10 Farad cap.....now my problem is how to power all this equip.....I'm looking into the deka farm batteries....there was another who posted about this same dilemma....I ask....what about rv batteries....and can I put 24 volt batteries in the bed and step them down to 12 volt....and have less batteries....I don't want to go into debt for the rest of my life trying to power this system....I have pics of all this build that I will upload as soon as I figure out how...and I think yall will get a kick and some amazement out of my enclosure fabrication...I also have fiber optic lighting inside...lighted wheel rings and underglow outside....it's a lot of juice I need and I don't want 20 batteries...what's my best solution

Crescendo BC3500D is approximately six months old, has never been exposed to low voltage and has no scratches, dings or dents whatsoever. Does 3,875 watts RMS at 13.8v Xs power XP3000 battery is sitting at over 12.7v after being out of my car for several weeks now and is rated to support 3,000 watts rms power 2/0 welding wire is rated to support over 400 continuous amps of current and has already been heat-shrinked and fused for both positive and negative runs from front to back plus the big three upgrade and an additional trunk ground if you so wish to use it WIRE CAN BE HAD FOR $120 SHIPPED FORGOT TO PUT PRICE AMONG OTHER INFO ON SALES SHEET

Alright guys, here is a single 18" EMF audio ermagerd Dual 1 (can be wired down to 0.5 ohm) that needs to be reconed. The recone will run you $200 so you can have a brand new 6,500 watt RMS sub for just $600 since I am offering this unit shipped anywhere in the U.S. for $400, NO TRADES. This thing was able to handle a b2 audio m1u at 0.5 ohms for literally hours at a time until I got greedy and started clipping it with the gain. It got louder and lower than any other dual sub set-up I have ever had or owned and I have run kicker, SSA and Fi car audio to name a few. It will take the power and handle the abuse as long as the signal and power you are feeding it is clean. Weighs in at just over 100lbs, features a super stupid silly insane HIGH-roll rubber surround and nearly 4" of peak-to-peak excursion with a true carbon-fiber dust cap and quad-stack magnet/motor. Any further questions or concerns please feel free to ask me. Phil

Alright, I'm sure you've read it before and probably been through it; someone bought a setup and loved it but is no longer enough for them. That is also me at the moment and that is what this is about. What I have: 2010 Chevy Malibu 2 12" fully loaded Fi Q 12s in a sealed enclosure approx. 3 c.f. (built for sealed because of lack of trunk space for ported box) no upgraded alternator (reason: not easily accessible and no one pimps these malibus, so they don't make those componenets and when they do, they're expensive) 2400 Kinetik battery in trunk bigger battery upfront (duralast platinum/gold whichever they said was better, lol) Hifonics Brutus BRZ-2400 0 gauge and big three, but no dimming or anything at the moment setup wired to 1 ohm What I want: to be significantly more powerful but still have great sound quality (on the highway) to still be able to get quality bass also at lower power levels (when crusing through the city) What can I do to get from where I am to where I want to be? 1. will more power to the Q12s make a significant difference? or would the difference in power be miniscule as the subs may be close to peak performance at 2400? 2. Would the BTLs be the way to go to get that BOOM? heard they need a boatload of power to actually make them much different from the Q line **just from what I have read, no personal experience** ANY/ALL advice is appreciated. know how to help me out? please do! Think I'm doing something horribly wrong? tell me! P.S. installed my first system 5 yeas ago and have done 4 since, not a bass expert but know more than the average Joe

Hello jw if box rise is influenced whatsoever by the number of amplifiers used in a system set up or if it is essentially the same regardless of how many amplifiers are used to power a set of drivers

Ok guys, here is MY personal Review of the Taramp HD8000 I personally own Three of them. I purchased two use from DangRebel here, and the third directly from Shizzzon. One of used ones from DangRebel went into protect immediately upon hooking up. And the BNIB from Shizzzon also went into protect while demoing Sunday afternoon while at Slamology. Here is a few pictures of my installation for Reference. On the chargers. So to explain my experience in total. My system consist of One DC Power 240XP, 100ft of 3/0, Ten Batteries. I also should mention I run each amp at 1.5 ohm, the amps are the Two ohm version. Now, the drive down to Indiapolois is about 5 hours long. For the better half of the trip, I would turn the gain up half way, couldn't take much more than that, (pressure wise). So the most my voltage would drop would be .1-.3 Volts. During some testing at the shop, we clamped 3200 watts starting at 2.7 rising to 8.1 pulling a little over 300 amps of current. The first time demoing there that Friday night, I was able to burn up 2 300 amp fuses while playing full tilt after 2 or 3 songs. Replaced the fuses, back up and running. Saturday, I beat ALL DAY. Was still having engine issues. So for 87% of my demos were at battery voltage. Since the engine was off, that also means no rear A/C to cool them, still no issues. Yes, they did get warm. On sunday, got warm enough to not hold your hand longer than 30 seconds. But again, it wasn't THAT hot lol. To describe how the amps are mounted. The rear wall is 3" thick of High Quality MDF. Which an another layer of 3/4" wood mounting plate is attached. Then the steel rack. Then the amps are mounted onto an 3/4" MDF mounting baffle, that is mounted onto the steel amp rack. Shizzzon informed me that there was still too much vibration, and wired too low, which is why the bottom amp failed. I was able to verify that the amps were indeed moving, but from what I could see, it was only becuase the truck itself was moving. Not much else I can do about that. So in sum, these amps, in my opinion, are the better choice for us in every aspect, EXCEPT durability. If you think of where these amps come from and their origin, it makes sense for what I see is their biggest flaw. These amps are MUCH more sensitive than Koreans. The output section especially. We had I believe 3 other Team IAK members whom amps failed as well. One was becuase the wrong gauge was used for the speaker cable. One was for no reason, there's mine, and one other. So, for advice for other users. It is ok to run these amps, they do power, cheap, small, and stupid efficient. To run these long term usage, have these key items. 2-3 Group 31s PER HD8000. Use the appropriate size for the output section. 8 gauge min. Ensure there is NO to VERY min. vibration. And wire to the proper ohm load. I wouldn't even risk burping lower than rated. Do not count on box rise. Please note, that the ENTIRE weekend I beat the living piss out of my system lol. Most people, demo for 20-30 seconds at most per demo. I would play full songs full tilt, had no issues. I played my system for at least 4-10 hours in total over the weekend. The amps gave me no issues until Sunday afternoon. Which was a much hotter day, maybe 5-10 degrees more. There was no smoke, just protect light. Yes there was troublshooting performed. Turn system off, let cool down, unplug everything, let cool down, remove RCA/Speaker cables, etc. Moving forward, I will Continue to run these amps. At four ohms each for now, then at World finals run at 2 ohms.

Hooked the RedStar Neo up to 110volts on each coil and let her go.... Good times!! http://youtu.be/XglfJ10tryA

As the title says, I have 2 sundown saz-1500v3 amps for sale. SELLING AS A PAIR. unless I can have two buyers to split price. They come with original boxes. MINT CONDITION!!. less than 1 month old. never seen below 13 volts. never put into protections. I need to upgrade power and need to sell. asking for $700 shipped. willing to trade for amps 5k-7k of power plus cash on my end depending on amp. specifically Soundstream x3.71, RD D9, Hifonics XXV Goliath or XXV Sampson, or similar Rated power output ----RMS power, 2 ohm linkable/dual mono 3000W x 1CH ----RMS power, 1 ohm mono 1500W x 1CH ----RMS power, 2 ohm mono 930W x 1CH ----RMS power, 4 ohm mono 530W x 1CH Signal to Noise Ratio >90dB Low pass frequency crossover 35Hz~300Hz Subsonic filter 10Hz~60Hz Bass boost @ 45Hz 0~9dB Phase shift control 0~180 degree Frequency response 15Hz~270Hz (+/- 1dB) T.H.D @ 4 ohm <0.1% Efficiency @ 4 ohm 86% Fuse rating 150A Dimensions 8.25"(W) x 2.32"(H) x 16.53"(L)

hey, i have 2 12" sundown SA'12's soon to be 4 or 6 in total. they are all dual 2 ohm subs, i wanted to know if any 1 has any suggestions for a amp that will give at least 2000-2500 RMS @ .5 ohms or 2 ohms and no more than $400 plus shipping. let me know if you have something your selling under these terms and or let me know if you know any amps that are able of doing the job for my system. thanks

has any 1 ever used Lanzar's optidrive series amplifers? if so, what are the some helpful reviews on it. is it a good amp with low THD does this amp put out what its ratted? can you let me know if it is a overall good amp for subs will this thing get low and still stay warm?