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Hello all, I have been away from the forums for some time since graduating college and started working again. Now that I have some money to finally move away from these seemingly low powered setups (6 systems since 2012), I am looking for help with my wall build. I am going to be building the base to the wall in my 2016 Ford Focus sedan in a week or two, and there is a lot of room to work with (over 30 cubes). I will be running 2 18" ZCONs on (undecided) either a 5.5k or 6.5k amp with supporting electrical (batt bank, lots of OFC wire, and HO alt). This is my daily, and I just want a ground pounder with no care to what numbers it'll put up in the lanes. I would like to demo a lot. I'm thinking 8 cubes per sub (16 cubes net) tuned to 32 Hz is a good place to start (recommended by SSA). I'm thinking either a center slot port, or a top port. ** I listen to ALL kinds of music, Decaf/DJSNT, rap, hip hop, metal, rock, 80s/90s pop, jazz, country, movie scores, blues, dubstep/electronic, classic rock, oldies, etc, etc..** Now... my questions are: How much port area do y'all recommend? Is 8 cubes of net volume per sub a good amount? Should I be alright running an underrated 5500 watt amp, or go with the 6500? What port orientation shall I go with? If I think of more questions, I will be sure to post them. P.S. Sorry if I am asking some questions that are common knowledge among these builds, but this is my first "loud" and "high powered" setup. My two loudest systems thus far have been a single Obsidian Audio 15 on about 900 watts, and 2 Sundown Ev3-12's on 1300 watts. Thank you for your time and patients everyone! Cheers.
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I recently purchased a SSA Evil 18in sub, and a 3k rms amp. my first ever real set up so im pretty new to car audio. but i have a question and in need of advice. when i turn up the volume it almost sounds like the subwoofer is bottoming out or making a clicking noise. is this normal or do i need to lower the power on it. or is there more to it than just that?
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2005 tahoe running 2 runs of 1/0 cca and 3 batts juicebox black cherry, apple, and crescendo logic 31 Order a 270 amp 6 phase power coated red So I went ahead and order a stinger alt and was wondering a few things being the fact that I never had a beefed up alt before...would that be a problem running my stock and a stinger alt if not do I need extra part to do that. Do I have to run to different lines from the alt to the batts or can I just do alt to alt to batts...if so do I have to run the stinger alt first than the stock ???
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help with 80prs auto-eq
spanky1975 posted a topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I am trying to run the auto-eq on my unit. I keep getting an error message for outside noise. I am running in 3-way active mode. Internal amp is turned off. I did reset the head unit and tried again and still had the same error. I am performing the auto-eq in a very quiet closed garage. Any suggestions or help is greatly appreciated. -
I am having trouble getting the image function on here to work properly so any advice in posting pics for sale would be greatly appreciated thanks. I do already have the photos downloaded to my computer and uploaded to photo bucket btw I am simply having issues getting the pictures to post after I copy and paste the URL into the image function window its as if it freezes on me and won't allow me to press ok or cancel so not sure if this is a temporary site issue or something I am doing wrong
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I recently reconed my BTL UFO 12" with high xmax option. I used the spacers provided to space the basket .250" above the bump in the motor. I first knocked the dust cap off in a huge box I had made for my zcon. 3.1 cu ft. tuned to 32. Glued it back up and I did it again. I built a new box because I thought big box, over powering, exc. could have been the cause. Plus it didn't sound that great (anticipated) I have a box made.. 2.4 cu ft. tuned to 32. Knocked the dust cap off again today. I am using household goop to glue the dust cap. Should I go with CA? Possibility that the recone was not made to be spaced from the motor?
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I just installed my new Fi Q12 today, and it sounds fantastic for the most part. But there are a few frequencies that are causing a loud rattling/popping noise. It's in a sealed box, I'm 100% certain I'm not clipping it, or overpowering it. Lower frequencies don't cause the noise, just higher ones around 100 hz I'd guess. The noise only happens at mid to high volume. It sounds like the noise is coming from directly behind the dustcap. Is the problem a loose dustcap? Any input is appreciated.
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Weird Sine Wave from Amp, please help!!!
mikebingham34 posted a topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Hey everyone, I just got my o scope and decided to tune my system. First i did the door speakers since they are ran off the HU, and found I have a max volume of 31/50, all the sine waves looked good, went smooth as butter.... then i went to the sub amp, brz1200d, and i have the weirdest thing showing up on the scope. a picture will be below, or a link. i have eliminated the rca's, hu, and almost all factors with this. even with no signal going to it, and just the amp on, no rca's connected, no bass knob, and i still get a feedback.... please help me figure out why this is happening, i dont want to bump my sub till this is figured out. -
I would like some input on building an enclosure for 2 ZCON 15D2's. The max cubes available for the box is 7(3.5 per sub) after displacements. I want to tune at 31hz. I have seen the recommendations SSA's site for enclosures but would like to have some outside information on how well these will do in 7 cubes . They will be running off a SAZ3500 at .5ohms. Thanks.
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My current setup is in a 2000, mustang convertible. Very little room. I am using 2 seperate boxes at about 1 cube sealed. I have a kicker 750.1 amp, powering two 10 inch CVRs. My question is, what can I drop in that will sound better? Of course the cvrs are loud, but after I tuned them there just not where I would like. I am looking for a cheap replacement. I may be able to sell the cvrs to some friends to help with cost. I'm looking at the Sundown E-10, so Skar IVX 10 Would an upgrade be worth if it, if so, what subs should I get? In short: 750-800rms, 1 cube sealed (each), daily use. What to get?
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I ordered an 18in Bl on 1/20/2013 using my dad's credit card and it sat there saying "awaiting payment" for a couple days now and I thought I put in some of the payment information wrong, so I reordered the sub using MY debit card. I've emailed Fi a few times and I just want to make sure that the first order doesn't get charged to my dad's card, I DO NOT WANT TWO SUBS!!!!! SOMEBODY FROM Fi PLEASE RESPOND.
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So I'm trying this whole active thing out with drivers I had laying around. I was actually pretty impressed how the random drivers sounded so I figured I could spend some money on stuff. But before I purchase, I keep seeing people saying that to make a certain driver sound good it needs a "notch filter" to smooth out the response. I researched and now I know exactly what it means, but I don't want to build one (mostly because I have no clue how to do that) so I was thinking...and I realized that they're using the notch filters for the same thing we use an EQ for in a car...right? I can smooth out the response pretty well (or I can pony up and buy equipment that can) electronically...so there's no need to do it physically, right?
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hi i have a clifford 590.2x and i have to addons which is the dual zone motion sensor 508d and digital tilt sensor 507m how do i wire these two to my alarm thur the optinal mux port for additional sensors
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Ok I've never put any sound in any of my cars in the past. I went out one night with friends I was able to ride in an SUV with a decent set-up (from what I experienced) and that got me interested. I have a 30-40min ride to work each day and my OEM speakers are going out so I've been doing my research... From what I've read Fi subs have been given great reviews and the only complaints are due to the lead time on getting them. The set up (in my friend's SUV) that I liked was 2 10" JL w7s in a ported box on a 500w JL amp from what I was told. I prefer sound quality over loudness and won't be going crazy loud. The thing I did like was the fact that I "felt" the bass but the common knock on the w7s seem to be that they are overpriced for what they deliver. I would like some advice in what to go with as far as all aspects based on what those with more experience would recommend on: Component speakers, amp, fi subs, & anything else that a sound noob would need to know This will all be going into an 02 Tahoe w/ non-Bose system and I have somebody to put it in but I'd like the non-bias opinion from people not at an audio shop just trying to upsell me. Thanks in advance
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So, right now I am running a 2011 RF Punch P2 12" on a RF Prime R500.1 (500 watts @ 2 ohms). This is in a 1.72 cuft enclosure tuned to 31.8 Hz via 4" aero. I have the itch to upgrade. I understand that almost anything is an upgrade haha, but I was curious if the SSA GCON 12" would be a substantial difference in volume, and SQ? I would put this in a 3 cuft box tuned to 28Hz via the 4" aero. My current setup is in a 98 grand cherokee, but it will soon be put in the trunk of either a civic or corolla. Just as any extra info so you guys can help: Goal, loudest possible SQ with this sub. What do I listen to? : Everything from Dubstep, to Classic Rock, to Metal, to Gangsta Rap. Why am I singling out the GCON? : It's from SSA, great rep, low Mms more accurate sounding (low compared to the OA-12, SA-12, VVX-12), should sound good on 500, and figured i'd try to stray from the SA-12, VVX-12 trend. If you need anymore info, just ask, I apologize for leaving anything important out. Thanks for all the help and advise!
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Hey all, I've got two 12" SSD's coming in the next few days and I decided to get a headstart on building my box. I've raped the search tool and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. If anyone has some spare time and wouldn't mind doing a fellow enthusiast a HUGE favor, it wouldn't go unnoticed. I'm hoping to get a cutsheet for 2 12" SSD's (ported) for my 2008 Mazda 6 sedan. Here's the preferred specifications. W: 42" (MAX) H: 16" (MAX) D1: 21" preferred D2: 16" preferred Tuned from 30-33hz I'm thinking it'd be cool to have the subs forward-firing at an angle with the seats. Then I could just mount my amp on the trunk side. The angle would take much more advantage of the space but if that's too difficult to calculate I'd understand and just make them rear-firing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I suck at math and don't trust online calculators :/