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Showing results for tags 'FI'.
Found 64 results
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Deadener should be here Friday. I doubt I'll get any work done since there is a car show in town this weekend but I want to do something. I will mount DSP and try to get the ground side of the Big 3 done sometime this week.
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Slow build, but wanted to get a build log going.
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Hello and welcome to my daily headaches! I'll start this build log off with my past setup, my current, and finally update throughout December as I work on probably the furthest this little Civic will let me go. My instagram: https://www.instagram.com/joshdashef1/ The Past Build: Head unit: Pioneer 80 PRS Mono Amp: Rockford Fosgate Prime 750.1 Subwoofers: Rockford Fosgate P3D4 12" (two) Kicker 4 gauge amp kit OFC Stock Electrical (alternator included) Did do the big three sometime between here and current build Prefab Box: Q-Power Box (Dual 12s) Tips: Tesa taping RCA's, Marking RCA's Low/Mid/High or similar, Big Three with loom. Wire was Sky High 1/0 OFC with some 1/2" loom I believe. Old military style terminals (DO NOT USE THESE) they cracked my battery eventually.
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Whats happening at the build house that everything has an eta of july i believe? A little dissapointed by this... are they that swamped?
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1. Product: 2 Fi SP4 18s with Carbon Fiber Dust Caps 2. Specs: Both are dual 1 ohm (0.7 ohm) 3. Description/Condition: Ran them for a little under a year on low power (Audioque 2200). Magnets have some scratches but the surrounds, baskets, spiders, and coils are in excellent condition. Does not include the original gaskets. A couple of the pictures are next to a 10" Kicker "Competition" (lol) for size comparison. I threw out the original boxes some time ago, but Fi was nice enough to send me two brand new boxes to ship them in. So these will ship in original Fi packaging. 7/10 Cosmetically 10/10 Mechanically 4. Price: Asking $900 SHIPPED OBO for the pair. Because they are dual 1 ohm, I would like to keep them as a pair. NO TRADES, just trying to get rid of all my stuff. I'm located in Huntsville, AL 35810. Would be willing to drive to meet someone within reason. 5. Pictures:
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First post here at SSA. Looking for some help, I need to build an enclosure for my new sub and am looking for some help on a design. I can give up 34.5w X 20d X 15.5 OD max. I'm looking to get tuned to 32hz @ 2.5 cubes. I am going to be starting this build in the morning any help is greatly appreciated. I can't wait to hear this thing come to life. Just looking to get some help so I can visualize what I'm building. I will mess around with some numbers on Torres and try to post them up. It will be going in a Toyota Corolla and running off a crescendo s1500.1 so 1500w. Mostly hip hop music is what I listen to. Also, I work out of my car and have to use my trunk so I have to have my sub facing forward (into the car) to prevent the sub getting damaged. My current port is side firing but I would like to have this one facing forward. I'm open to any recommendations.
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Selling off everything but a few things. All items are BNIB unless otherwise noted. I am NOT interested in trades, sorry. SOLD!
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I've been thinking lately, and have recently become curious if I could fi two Fi Sp4 15's in my trunk of my Cruze. I already have 1 in there, but my question would be if I could should I make it a sealed box or take my rear deck speakers out and have areo ports going through there? Just thoughts, or even do a port in the middle. The max deminsions are 17" height 35" wide and 25 or 27" depth not 100% sure. Just would like some thoughts on this. I love my sp4 and if this car wasn't so new I'd have a wall of four of them by now lol..but if I am missing anything for you guys to help me out let me know and I'll make it presentable. Thank you everyone!
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What's the typical build time on SSA evil subs
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Alright, I'm sure you've read it before and probably been through it; someone bought a setup and loved it but is no longer enough for them. That is also me at the moment and that is what this is about. What I have: 2010 Chevy Malibu 2 12" fully loaded Fi Q 12s in a sealed enclosure approx. 3 c.f. (built for sealed because of lack of trunk space for ported box) no upgraded alternator (reason: not easily accessible and no one pimps these malibus, so they don't make those componenets and when they do, they're expensive) 2400 Kinetik battery in trunk bigger battery upfront (duralast platinum/gold whichever they said was better, lol) Hifonics Brutus BRZ-2400 0 gauge and big three, but no dimming or anything at the moment setup wired to 1 ohm What I want: to be significantly more powerful but still have great sound quality (on the highway) to still be able to get quality bass also at lower power levels (when crusing through the city) What can I do to get from where I am to where I want to be? 1. will more power to the Q12s make a significant difference? or would the difference in power be miniscule as the subs may be close to peak performance at 2400? 2. Would the BTLs be the way to go to get that BOOM? heard they need a boatload of power to actually make them much different from the Q line **just from what I have read, no personal experience** ANY/ALL advice is appreciated. know how to help me out? please do! Think I'm doing something horribly wrong? tell me! P.S. installed my first system 5 yeas ago and have done 4 since, not a bass expert but know more than the average Joe
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Hey guys, hoping to get some help or suggestions here, but I'll just introduce myself a little first. I've been reading this forum for a long time though I have not really posted much, and I've basically used it ever since I did my first system about 4 years ago. Like I said, I've been in to car audio for a while, I've done 4 different of my own installs in that time, and have done and helped with many of my mates installs as well, so though I have lots to learn still, I have a fair bit of experience. I live in Australia, so our set-up here is a bit different in terms of brand availability and what we can listen to at shops etc. So, on to the problem. I recently bought a new car, and finished my install about 2 days ago, using most of the gear I used in my previous car but with a few changes. I'm running: Pioneer DEH-80PRS (New) Eclipse XA4200 4channel (from old car) Option Audio OAK1200 sub amp (from old car but I'm running it at 1ohm now instead of 2ohm with old setup) (option audio is an Australian brand BTW) Alpine SPR-60c in front (from old car) Alpine SPR-60 in rear (from old car) Fi Q12 in 2.25cuft @ 32Hz (New) We don't have Fi in Australia, so I imported my sub purely base on good reviews without being able to listen to it Electrical is up to scratch (HO alternator, dual batteries, etc) and I'm not getting any voltage drop (sitting at 14.3V at full volume). All gains we're set with an oscilloscope. Now I have only had time to listen to it for a couple of hours and I have not even had time to EQ it properly, but first impressions are pretty disappointing. The sub does not hit nearly as hard as I expected it to and honestly seems pretty slow and muddy (completely contradicting pretty much all the reviews I read). Comparing it to a mates 13W7, I did not expect the fi to be as loud or maybe even as good quality as the JL, but honestly, it is not even half as loud and definitely sounds worse. Same can be said when comparing to a 12W6, again,not as loud as the W6 and SQ is not there. In my old system I had 2 12inch polk db's in a compound ported box. For those of you who don't know what a compound arrangement is I'll just explain what it does: Basically you get the extra power handling, and motor force of 2 subs, but with the cone area of 1. So it's louder than 1 sub, but not quite as loud as 2 subs in a normal set up. Anyway. I was pretty happy with that set up, SQ was decent, and it went quite loud (louder than the W6, but still not on the same level as the W7). At the end of the day though, they we're entry level subs so I really expected the Q12 to be an upgrade (even if it was just in sound quality, though i would have liked it to be louder too). At the moment, it is a significant downgrade. I'm just looking at some suggestions or opinions as to where to start trouble shooting (I might have done something stupid, or have an issue in my system). I'll start: It could be the amp, it has always performed flawlessly but I've never run it at 1ohm. It's supposed to put out 1200wrms at 1 ohm which is a little under the recommended 1500w, but even at full blast, the sub is barely moving, so I suspect it might not be putting out claimed power (however I am pretty sure it put out claimed power at 2 ohms). Also, I've heard that the Q's get better as they break in, could this be the case? (though I can't imagine it would make THAT much of a difference) I'm not trying to compete or one up any of my friends, I just build systems for my own enjoyment because I love music. Comparing my first impressions with on-line reviews and youtube videos, there really is a night and day difference. I did not expect it to be better or even as good as a 13W7 (despite some reviews claiming that), but I expected it to be at least in the same ball park... So yeah, it's a weird thing to hope, but I really hope there is something wrong with my system, and that I would be able to get more out of this sub. Anyway, sorry for the long post, and thanks for any help. Arno
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12" Fi BTL UFO D2 Item(s) for Sale: 12" Fi BTL UFO Dual 2 ohm Item(s) Description/Condition: -pie slug style Fi UFO motor -12" 12 spoke aluminum frame painted hammered gray -PSI recone rated for 3k RMS -triple sewn leads -quad spiders -Longer coil to mimic Fi's HiXmax coil. Good for daily. Uses .25" spacers to accommodate coil length. -HD pulp cone -High roll surround This sub has been nothing but great to me. Can't say enough about it. Sadly I have just sold my amp and made a bunch of space in my trunk for a lot more business. ( (2) 12"s ) This 12" can do it all..handled my MMATS m3000.1 with ease, hit the lows, and was great for a daily woofer. Has always been on a good supporting electrical cast. I am pulling the sub tomorrow because I'll be pulling my amp as well. Can take more pictures for people with more interest then. Recone has a date of 9/xx/14 and actually didn't use it for about 4 weeks it was installed because I had to wait on a warranty claim on a battery. There is a bit of a glue splotch on the top plate, but no biggie, just CA. bottom of motor looks mint. Minimal chips in ferrite. Included is the motor boot and 12" gasket. Price: 275$ plus shipping Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information: Ask me for a shipping quote Will be using UPS. US 48 only.
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Well after a few months of owning my Bl 12 I've learned that I won't buy a mainstream sub for myself ever again! I also won't ever build a box that isn't as good or better than the one that I built for this beast either! Its only seen a 1200w rms hifonics amp the time that I've owned it and I feel it could handle 2000w with proper crossover tuning. I ended up building a box which after bracing was really close to 2.45ft^3 and tuned to 30hz give or take a hertz(not sure if the port is "exactly" 2.5x12" and "exactly" 31.25" long). It gets much lower than the system in my s10 that is for sure! Although I do love the way it sounds down low, I'm missing the volume i had in the upper frequencies(below 55hz). Its so much different that when I listen to rock I can hardly tell that I have a sub in the vehicle where in my s10 you feel every bass drum kick in your chest. I dont want to blame this on the sub since the enclosure is tuned so low and I still have the stock front stage and HU. I'm in the process of installing some kenwood components (xr1800p) in the doors and powering them with an old pioneer amp i had lying around(gm x524) and I'm replacing the head unit with a AVH2600bt pioneer touchscreen. I really hope that its the front stage making the biggest difference in the way the upper bass frequencies feel and that I'll love everything about the system in my passat better than the s10. I plan on updating this thread when Its all complete. I also finally found a method of inputting parameters into Win ISD that works! I won't say that I regret getting the BL but after seeing how it and the Q compare I would get the Q next time around. Here is a comparison of 5 12" subs around the price of the Bl all modeled in my system on an SPL graph.
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Figured I should start a build log since I've gone through so much trial and error in getting this stereo to sound good. I'm already done with most things but I did take pictures along the way so i'll get that all uploaded when i get photobucket or imgur figured out. I bought my passat almost a year ago, the weekend after black Friday to be exact, and knew immediately that it needed some love in the bass department. I had a rockford p-300-12 powered enclosure lying around that i once had mounted in a big self-propelled sprayer that i basically lived in for 3 summers, threw that in along with a rockford loc, rockford rca's, and some ebay 4ga cca to get it powered. That sounded awesome for the average non-basshead and would suffice until i found a real solution.... Did some searching and found this great place! After searching and reading here for hours I decided on a Fi BL 12 for a sub and a BRZ1200.1 hifonics amp to power it since i'm a poor college student and can't afford a bc, aq or saz lol I built a vented box for the BL that was 2.68ft^3 tuned to 28.5hz After I finished the box I had to stuff foam above the headliner near the upper brake light and under the rear deck to stop some rattling. Installed some dampener (dynamat and ebay stuff) to the trunk lid, under the trunk carpet on the floor, and rear deck from inside the trunk. dampener helped a ton. After the substage I realized that the stock front stage was not going to cut it... I knew that I wanted to fill some of the lacking upper bass frequencies with some volume so I was looking for the biggest components I could get for a decent price. Ended up getting the xr1800p components from Kenwood. They've got a big 7" woofer and an oversized 1 3/16" tweeter with external crossovers. currently the set is being powered by a dusty old pioneer 4-channel amp GM-x524. I'm not perfectly satisfied with the front stage for now since the amp likes to protect at high volumes and I've got some fuzzy distortion from the tweeters in certain frequencies. once i change the amp to the GM-d8604 class d 4-channel from pioneer I think it will get much better as I have the older GM-d9500f version in my s10 that never protects and has no distortion until extreme volume. also ran another 4ga run of cca to the trunk and a distribution block when I added the second amp. Also changed out the stock HU for a Pioneer Avh2600bt touchscreen unit which is fantastic for the money. I decided that the box was tuned too low so I chopped 10.5" off the port giving me a 2.88ft^3 net volume tuned to 32.2hz and was much happier! Now for the real reason I'm starting this build log.. I'm going to try a 6th order bandpass to keep this 'new to me' low end rumble and get back the awesome upper frequency volume from my mtx square sub in my s10 for when i want to blast the 50hz Flux Pavilion bass cannon! Much more to follow, including pics for the above^ stuff!
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Hey guys im switching from CVXs to BLs im wondering if my old box would be ok with the new subs till I get a new one built. Car Tunes built the box and its suppose to be "spec" for the size of my truck and the space im utilizing. They said its a 1 chamber for 2 subs. I went outside and measured it...dual 15s btw 20.5in long 42in wide 18.5in high The port measured 2.5 in wide 16.5 long I just wanna know if this box is close to whats recommended. Im sure they need more port volume but I don't build boxes so someone enlighten me please lol. Any input is greatly appreciated guys! Thanks
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From the album: Audio
A graph displaying SPL of 5 different woofers in a 2.5 cu ft box tuned to 30hz. All woofers had a 1200w signal applied. Parameters are shown for each woofer in the simulation. -
I know there were two different designs of the ferrite sandwich in the UFO driver. Pie shaped slugs and a single slate of ferrite. I heard the single slate had more motor force. If the pie slice and the single slice were ran with the same parts would there be a problem?
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Looking for an 04-05 XXX with the rounded bottom plate. I have cash and trades. PM me with details if you have one or have seen one for sale.
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1. Product: 12" Fi BTL UFO Dual 2 Ohm Fully loaded with HiXm coil. 2. Specs: 2k RMS but will take 3k HiXmcoil (longer coil to bring more xmax) .250" spacers Hammered gray painted basket RE XXX Dustcap to cover imperfections Motor boot and gasket included. 3. Description/Condition: Reconed about 3 months ago. (May) 10/10 functional: This has been one of my favorite drivers thus far. It is is 100% working condition. Can't get pics of coils yet as I just realized my multimeter is shot. I'll try borrowing the neighbors today to take pictures. 7/10 cosmetic: Some glue drips from spider landing. Little bit of glue splotches on the top of the motor. Glue was a bit runny from having it in the freezer. No chips in ferrite. Bottom plate in good condition. Dustcap: I put an RE XXX dust cap on it after I blew the original Fi Dust cap off the day after I reconed it. Had this woofer in a larger enclosure and it didn't like it on the power I was giving it. Built a box to specs and its been a sound experience I'll never forget. PM me with any questions about the woofer's conditions or shipping quotes. Hate to see this go, but I need to fund a new build. Had this woofer on 3k on good electrical. 4. Price: : 275+ Shipping PM me for a shipping quote. Paypal only. US 48 States only please. 5. Pictures: Video of this beast.
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I have for sale a used Fi Sp4 15". It has the cooling option, and space spider as well. It is a d2 and with a carbon cap. I ordered this sub directly from Fi on November 15, 2013 and recieved it around early December. Mechcanically: 10/10 Physically: 9/10 I would prefer local pick up only, I am willing to drive any where within an hour distance from where I live if serious. The box does come with the sub also. The subwoofer has been powered by an aq2200, ct2500.1, and a ct1400.1 without any issues. The price is somewhat flexible.
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*Fi Car Audio* Fi BL 15" Dual 1 ohm coils -Flatwound coil -Cooling -Hyper pole -Integrated leads -daily gap -Universal gap In great shape, only used it in between my builds a couple times. Been sitting in my living room most of its existence. 300 shipped. US 48. Paypal only.
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Kings 07 Avalanche Walled 6 Team Fi 15's on 3 DC 9k's :)
KennethColeman posted a topic in Build Logs
So I finally decided to start a build log on here.I had sort of one in the photography thread awhile back. Im in the process of building a wall for 6 of the Fi Team Series 15's on 3 DC 9k's and a ton of other extras. This will be my third build and I have done everything on my own except the doors and VU-Din/Volt meter setup which I had my Italian shop in Italy do. So here are some pics of the old setup and some pics of the new build coming here shortly. Pics arent in any specific order but best score with the 4th order and 2 18" N2's was a 152.9 sealed. Never did the door open in the kick as i prefer sealed up numbers.It could also play music at a 51 for 1 min which the Italian's call War Machine LoL. Well enjoy and let me know what you think. -
Not a build log, but my list of equipment is here on my first video of this set-up. Enjoy!
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I have just acquired a PSI platform 3 woofer and I would like to get it reconed with Fi soft parts. I cut out the coil and it kinda looks like a BTL triple stack coil would fit. Would you guys be able to hand make a drop in kit for this woofer for me? I will post pics of the coil and motor if you need.
