CrownVic

Sorry to bump this old thread, but im finally getting around to trying this. I have the diodes and all the necessary things to do this, but idk which wire to look for, I know its supposed to be the "sensing" wire. I only have 2 wires coming from the pigtail of my alt one yellow and one green. This is the exact alt I have: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Commercial-Alternator/2000-Ford-Crown-Victoria/_/N-je6hqZ93xme?counter=4&filterByKeyWord=alternator&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=904656_193128_10843_

FWIW, Im 19 with a 16 month old daughter, and now that shes here I cant imagine not having her, but i will tell you that it will make EVERYTHING MUCH MUCH MUCH HARDER (i cant emphasize this enough). If i were you Id consider all options still at this point and remember that whatever decision you make will affect you for the rest of your life.

Thank you for the info!

It's the same concept that's been used in steering wheels for 60+ years. Not that i don't believe you, but this seem pretty interesting to me. Got any links to info about the details to doing things of that sort?

Even if it has cancellation issues, who cares? You gotta appreciate the craftsmanship and ingenuity that goes into those spinning enclosures.

I just reglued a loose dust cap on my friends 12" Bl, took about 5 minutes.

If I were you id get the 3500's and just turn the gain down for daily, so you'd have the headroom for comps.

Fingers?

Try bending in the outer shells on your RCAs to allow them to better grip the input on the amp.

Why not just spend $50 and build a ported box for the SSD that way if you still want more you can just get another 18 instead of trying to find a sub to run sealed.

Props on that score man I realize how hard it is to get a good score in these cars, im only puttin up a 145 in mine with a BTL. Great build

Not to thread jack, but I have a crown vic as well (2000) with a 18" BTL doing 145's at around 39hz. And i have numerous rattling issues to be addressed at another time, but I have the same mirror rattling issue. Idk how his rattles, but my whole mirror housing moves visably and rattles loudly but when I grab the housing the rattling stops. The rattling also gets much worse when I have all my windows up.

Nice build. Got any videos?

Yea I called and ordered, they were real helpful and arrived at the shop in like 2 days. Idk about what size you should get but I do know that the more I drive on these tires the more I love them, they make the car handle so much better but they still ride so smooth and quiet.

I just put a set of sumitomo HTR Z's on my car and I absolutely love them so far, they ride excellent, there super quiet, and handle like no other in wet or dry weather. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR+Z+II

Another reason Im glad I run Fi.....

Savage on DSBP owns a shop somewhere in texas, might try contacting him.

Lovin the TC. Looks like that front stage is awesome

That looks awesome

Im interested in this as well, mine rattle to but it gets worse with the windows up.

I really like your truck/build man. Clean truck, clean build its a win win

Xcons have been proven to be great subs, but it seems with your goals that something like a BTL or if your set on SSA then the Zcon series seems better suited to your goals IMO.

My thinking with porting through the ski hole is that you need to seal off the trunk from the cabin to get the best effect. Other than that I think itd be as simple as building an external port through the ski hole.

Why not put the sub and enclosure under the hood?

Thats how buying from a shop goes man. There more expensive then ebay because they have more overhead and expenses then someone on ebay selling things. Thats always how its gonna be when you go to a shop your gonna pay more for the equipment, but youll have someone there to talk to and deal with in person versus just getting some equipment in the mail.