vladd

thats what i'm saying, but she's saying that since it takes 2 weeks for pharmcas to send the stuff to them, i'll be late (and also, they have IMMEDIATE access to the info online, they just won't get the paper copies for two weeks)

i'm ready to beat some ass.... anyone who cares enough to read about my injustice... note the following page http://pharmacy.su.edu/PharmWeb/indexmenu/...ion=AppInfoTrad now, i e-submited my application from pharmcas today, and then was informed by the school that not only does my stuff have to be received by pharmcas by the 1st of feb, but it also has to make it to them, which requires another 2-3 weeks, so i missed the deadline. $200 in application fees down the drain, plus i'm not even going to be considered for admission. WTF do i do? complain? good luck of me getting in then, fudge i am pissed

the downside of opera is..i always get my windows confused....IHOP

120 < 300 do it!!! the stockers are fugly, not that i have room to talk with my steely's

$120? i'd be all over it

Ho

next dilema in my wheel project, where can i get them installed that won't charge me $20/wheel (yea thats not a fake number) and won't use damn hammer on magnets and kill my wheels

frosty errr uh jimj i think you should take the old door panel, sit a mdf baffle under the speaker vent things, and hit it with the heat gun, see if you could mold and push it out a little....they're pretty thin, i bet it would work

If god permits, next year i'll be in pharmacy school living with and leeching off my aunt/uncle. I hope to put a HT setup in and will use the subs i already have (for a start). My question is which should i use. I have the two 15" atlases and the 1 15" avalanche. I'm not sure how much different HT is from car audio, so i'll put my speculations and you all can feel free to correct me. two atlases will have more than enough output i'm sure. But won't get as low as the Avalanche. The avalanche will get low, but not as much output. Also I imagine an amp for the atlases would be easier to come by. (300W @ 4ohm vs 800W @ 4ohm) So my question is for HT is lows needed more than output (this will be for movies, i want realistic sound, not my bass crazy car. And should i worry about either not having required output? (for a car this would be a stupid question since both setups were loud in car, but i don't see cabin gain helping me in a big open room)

noonish for me most likely, unless there's a reason to get up early

theres like 8 sirens outside...i'm caught

EBS??? and in all honesty the room is rectangular, i was just giving quick ideas, all the rooms are located on one side of the house so you end up with a slimmed down rectangle, i have no idea how much, whatever a normal room width is, lol Let me do a crappy paintshop drawing... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/vladd06/room.jpg The offsets are taken, one for a semi-office the other has the uncle's architecture(Sp?) stuff. the bed is on the left side of the room, (between the left offsets) and the tv is in the upper right. The tv is moveable, but the bed isn't. something like this is possible... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y50/vladd06/room2.jpg

i'd like to avoid buying new subs, just use what i already have, so i'm guessing the two atlases would be better suited? Thats good news since i had originally planned on using them.

the exterior of the house is 36 x 36, this room is almost completely open, i'd say 30 x 30 at least :-/

today has been uber productive..i cleaned the car out (3 grocery bags of trash) fixed the dash rattle (dash screws coming loose, oops), paid pharmacy application fee (the small one) and cleaned my room, booya now i need to go buy laundry detergent, and maybe a bigger screw to fix the cadence amp if i feel froggy, don't know if i can afford the $.97 lol

i need to find the rattle in my dash

i was insinuating it would be appropriate for death metal because of the equal amount of sucking :-D

audiobahn do people really listen to death metal? we had a roommate that did, but she was a punk goth wannabe

also..i probably WILL be building a box in the trunk, just discovered that i have a 19" mounting height.

avalanche + box = too tall to invert upright, firing towards the rear was the only option, avalanche was too heavy for the box to support so i stuck a few pieces of MDF above the box to wedge it in (ghetto is betto) The sound? a lot better, the added volume helped since she was struggling for air before. Lows are much better, output is more localized because of the rear firing, and trunk rattles more. A little louder, but barely noticeable.

bed at 8pm up at 4am =7am and restless going out now to invert the avalanche

you only had like 1/32 of clearance anyway!!!!

if you're wanting something that really gets loud, you need to port. Since you're going to be running the subs in your SRT i'd go with 12s regardless of what sub you choose. 12s will be an easier fit all around and because of space requirements they'll probably be just as loud as 15s in your application. #1 thing is if you don't like your sub, change your box before you change subs. So many factors affect how your sub will sound, net volume, port area, tuning frequency, shape of box, how the woofer is pointing, etc etc etc.

Welcome, and if your trunk is anything like my stratus's then good luck

icy rain + work + no screwdriver = no inverted avalanche today