vladd

damn you all have been moving the hop, i had a shit ton to catch up on

fuck the numbers game, i'll take your 110 over Florida's 95 any day. I can't even walk to the car without my balls sticking to my legs, god forbid I should walk more than 1/4 mile because clammy skin = friction in all the wrong places. Same climate we have here. 95F, 65% humidity, feels like your skin is going to melt right off your face. 110F, 20% humidity? Sure, it's hot but at least your sweat can evaporate fairly quickly. our august averages here has been anywhere from 74-85% with highs typically at 94%, the lows typically dip to the low 60s though that data is probably at night when the damn bugs make sure you can't enjoy it. I saw 83* on a sign this morning at 7:30 right after the sun finished coming up.... Sorry I mean to specify my numbers were all humidity percentages.

I was pointing out the Fs just to back up M5, it claims a freq response from 3k-22khz yet the Fs is 3700? So already the specs say that this tweet can play both below Fs and past 20khz and for the 6" driver...well I haven't heard too many 6" speakers that enjoy playing 9khz that aren't specifically designed to be full range (that one isn't) you will have a gap oops, didn't mean to hit the dead horse again

me or dem? I'll take what's in your avatar, I need a ripped shirt.

Why would you need to if the seleniums are capable of going up to 9kHz? LOL. Specs are crap. No way, no how do those specs portray reality.

fuck the numbers game, i'll take your 110 over Florida's 95 any day. I can't even walk to the car without my balls sticking to my legs, god forbid I should walk more than 1/4 mile because clammy skin = friction in all the wrong places. Same climate we have here. 95F, 65% humidity, feels like your skin is going to melt right off your face. 110F, 20% humidity? Sure, it's hot but at least your sweat can evaporate fairly quickly. our august averages here has been anywhere from 74-85 with highs typically at 94%, the lows typically dip to the low 60s though that data is probably at night when the damn bugs make sure you can't enjoy it.

fuck the numbers game, i'll take your 110 over Florida's 95 any day. I can't even walk to the car without my balls sticking to my legs, god forbid I should walk more than 1/4 mile because clammy skin = friction in all the wrong places.

Didn't mean to imply it doesn't have a smell, just that most people can't recognize it. (maybe should have my nose checked though because unless it's steaming I don't find it to be all that acrid)

you'd have to be pretty good to smell antifreeze. I usually go by taste, but remember to spit not swallow :-D If there's that much in the floorboard you should notice it missing from the reservoir/radiator.

are you sure it was water? When heater core's bust you'll find water/antifreeze in the floorboard but it's typically the passenger side because the core/lines sit above it. The water could also be coming from the window rail as you stated, you gotta check to find it, start removing interior panels and if necessary put some pieces of open celled foam in places up the a-pillar and check them after a rain to see if they are wet.

Fs on those tweets is 3720hz no way in hell could you play even close to Fs, let alone below it.

I am follwing this supercharged boat thing like crazy. I know on road vehicles you're way better off with forced induction because normal driving doesn't use the boost and therefore you aren't losing your efficiency. Under boost you'll friggin drink fuel but who cares when your asshole is chewing a hole in your seat. With a boat I assume you'd be under load way more often than in a car and therefore using the boost way more frequently. as far as fuel consumption being linear all I know is tuning the a/f ratio on turbo cars, you really start to lean out near full throttle and that's where you really have to worry about becoming too lean. So I would assume you have the most efficient burn at or near full throttle/boost. When driving along you rarely have a constant a/f ratio and when you do it's well away from lean. another question would be does your a/f ratio need to change with RPM, I would assume it doesn't but assumptions are the mother of all fuckups. It is possible that a lower RPM would allow you to run a more lean mixture. I say find an intercooler and find a way to pipe in fresh water from the lake too!

sorry to hear it Matt

<- didn't notice the lack of rear tabs on the plate, but I'd have to see it mounted to form an opinion.

Why's that? I've seen stock alts mounted with way less.

http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/mercedes-benz-slk-250-cdi-diesel-2011-08-18 because you all are as lazy as i am

anyone see the new mercedes slk 250 diesel(european of course)? After the talk of hp vs torque, it's got 205hp, 368ft lbs of torque, i would like to drive that and tow my house around with it.

I haven't used Google+ because i can't get laid on it, not because I gave up on you mr aaron

not according to JL...they're saying the 12w3v3 can use in a 1.75cf box ported And there is no way you can make a 1.75cf box NET and a port in a 2 cuft space. No way, no how. unless you think outside the box *sorry, how many chances do you get for that kind of a pun? edit: you said in a box

rewiring is relatively easy and something you should definitely learn now, it'll be infinitely beneficial. Nothing more than connecting + and - terminals in the correct manner. BCAE1 will be your friend here. You can rewire to .5ohm but that's the equivalent of turning up the boost on a turbocharged engine, if you don't do it correctly and with restraint you will kill stuff (the sub, amp, and even catching your car on fire is possible). I was honestly just listing it as an option because it is one, not because it's best for you.

Something else to keep in mind, you keep looking at cheaper, lets say "shitty" amps. You may save money and think these amps will perform admirably but you'll end up with another amp that cuts off, and/or an amp that you can never resell. You get what you pay for, and if you watch the classifieds, it's the nice amps and that get resold. You put $150-$200 on a crap amp and you're stuck with it because nobody else wants it (like the $35 sony amp, there's a reason it's $35). Save up and get a nice amp and when you're ready to change systems you'll be able to recoup most if not all of your investment (and yes you will want to change, this hobby is a little addictive). When i've sold audio gear in the past I rarely lose more than 20% off what I paid for the items, and usually end up making money because I shop for two months and catch a deal instead of making an impulse buy. Money spend on audio doesn't have to be money lost, but if you're not careful it definitely will be.

Personally I'd look at a good .5ohm stable amp or find two smaller 1ohm stable amps. At .5ohm you have to have a healthy electrical and you need to be careful (you are probably a little too new for this, no offense). Two 1ohm stable amps will be out of your budget by a little but probably a much better investment. If it were me i'd look at something like a sundown 1000d and simply run one sub until you can afford another 1000d. Your problem is a 2ohm load, it's typically not the ideal spot for power. Most sub amps make their big power at 1ohm, so you're going to have to settle with buying two amps that each run at 1ohm or buying one huge amp and running at 2ohm. The one amp at 2ohm is going to be making roughly 1/2 the power that it could make at 1ohm and so essentially you'll be paying for twice the wattage that you'll be using. This means that you'll be paying more and getting less, not really ideal.

I hate the audi styling, don't like the front, they did the best they could with the rear I suppose. Won't state an opinion about interior unless i've been inside them, being short means the distance and placing of controls matters more than how much plastic they used (i'm sure they both use way more than they should). I would kill for a 1/8lb fat sack, let alone 1100lb of felony goodness. I could surf the skies with that much!

fair enough sean, pride in some US designed and US-profiting products

fair enough sean, pride in some US designed and US-profiting products