Frostedflakejake

I do not have any interest of carrying the Tact. If i do, it will simply be an open carry in extremely rare situations.

I am not new to pistols, but new to owning one. I have several rifles so i understand firearm maintenance. My university has a pistol club and for two years I've shot for 3-4 hours a week. Easily 150 rounds a week for about 60 weeks. I'm looking for a large caliber target pistol. Like everything else, i like things that are a little unique. I was interested in the USP Tact, and when i held it at the store it just felt like it fit me. I essentially got the answer i was looking for. Just wanted to make sure there was nothing to worry about or anything special regarding strange maintenance that I didn't find online. Also the issue is I've always, always wanted the Tact. Just never felt like throwing the cash down. So i feel like if i don't buy it now, i just will later. One of those inevitable things you know? Thanks for the responses guys

Same thing happened to my brother in Austin, Texas. 45 mph collision. Fucked up his leg for life. Sued the shit out of the guy. Glad to hear your friend walked away!

What do you gun guru's think about the H&K USP Tactical 45? I've been shopping for a 45 and I really love the Tact. It fits my hand better than any other pistol I've shot (XD 9, a series of 1911's, Baretta m9, and a Glock 22). I also have heard about the torture testing of the USP series so I feel as if it's a safe buy. I'm relatively sure I'm going to buy it. Just figured I would ask the advice of the more knowledgeable

How did it come out?

Figured I would ask here. Anyone know anyone looking for a couple of D2's SA15's? They are the ones with the rubber magnet boot (not a clue what gen that is).

Do whatever you have to to keep that 6'' constant. To answer your question, yes. You can do that.

Get a fuel efficient vehicle, like a Fiesta, and with the money saved in gas you can have your dream system! ..... plus a down payment on a house! Hahah I'm just yanking yer chain.

Alright so the license server is being a butthead. No model To ensure common terminology: The baffle of the box obviously is the face where the subwoofer is placed in. The bottom of the box is opposite to the baffle. The front of the box will be the face facing the BACK of the vehicle The back of the box will be the face facing the Rear seats of the vehicle The sides of the box are the remaining two sides which face the sides of the vehicle The baffle and the bottom will have the same dimensions. So including the double baffle, you will need 3 pieces of 38" x 28". They will rest above and below, respectfully, the two side pieces and the front and back. Meaning that you will drill through the baffle into the sides and front and back. Same goes for the bottom piece. (hope that makes sense) The back piece will be 38" x 14.75". It will cover the side pieces and rest in between the baffle and bottom piece. One side piece will be 14.75" x 26.5". it will fit between the baffle and bottom as well as between the front and back. The front piece will be 31.25" x 14.75". It will cover one side piece, and then will be exactly 6" short of covering the other side piece. This is how the 6" x 14.75" port area is created. The other side piece, and in turn the last piece, will be 14.75" x 27.25". It is .75" longer because the front of the box will not cover one of the side pieces because that side piece will act as a port wall. To be honest, I seem to forget this EVERY time and then that one side piece isn't flush with the edge. It doesn't really bother me, but I might as well suggest to do it right Alright so thats for the box, but now you need too additional port walls. You can decide to change how you assemble the port to be more cosmetically friendly, but quite frankly, i never really care. So my way will have visible screw heads facing the rear. Anyways, one port wall will be 14.75" x 22.5". The other will be 14.75" x 6.75". Now you already said you've built a few boxes so I won't waste your time describing how i would assemble it. Just make SURE the put the L-port together before screwing the port into the box. Otherwise you won't be able to get the drill into the box to attach one of the port walls to the other. Please, Please, Please double check everything. I don't want to be responsible for a mess-up! But i am relatively confident, but i can't say for certain.

Ugh. My licensing software for my 3-D modeling program is being a butthead. I will try again tomorrow or at the very least give you the cut out sheets you'll need. Always nice to double check

I assumed everyone built L-style slot ports like me. Oopsies! The height is the overall height of the enclosure minus the double baffle and the bottom piece (giving a height of 14.75 for the port). The width was 6 inches and the total length was 30". Going 24" back and then making the L bend adding the remaining 6" inches of the length. Giving about 14.5 square inches of port are per cubic feet and a tuning frequency of 32.13hz. Just plugged in numbers into the Torres calculator. Used .26 cubic feet for woofer displacement. I can do a 3-D model OP if you would like one.

I assumed he was going off of my dimensions... which did indeed take into account displacements

I put mine relatively close to the corner just so that the weight of the woofer rests more on the side of the box that just the middle of the baffle board. But yeah, I would just stick it wherever you feel like it.

On the opposite side of the port is where I would put it. I would build sub facing up, port facing trunk.

I mean, I don't know what else you are looking for. It's very close to your target size, I used 32hz tuning cause you said you have it now and like it, and it has an appropriate amount of port area.

Would give him too big of a box and a 35hz tuning. I would do 17" tall, 38" wide, and 28" deep. L-style slot port that is 6 inches wide and a total of 30 inches wide. Do you understand how to implement L-style slot ports? Brings a tuning of about 32hz with a net cubic volume of 6.11 cubic feet and 14.5 square inches of port area per cubic feet of box. But it's obvious that you have more questions that need to be answered, but that's a basic box I would build.

Ah I see. Sorry. I always adjust gain instead of adjusting box sizes. I find it easier.

Yeah, but why change boxes just because you change amps? That's why I'm confused...

And I'm assuming you want it ported? How about a net cubic feet you're shooting for...

Why are you wanting to build another box when you get the 2 kilowatt amplifier?

The Avic z1 was extremely easy to bypass the parking brake lockout. Can't say for certain on that unit. Although I'm sure someone out there has done it. (There are a few youtube videos of people describing how to bypass that unit)

You won't notice a difference in how it sounds between any of the suggested amplifiers.

The best way to accomplish your goals is to place all your speakers on the outside of your vehicle. Sorry. I don't help people who want to be annoying.

what are the other maximum possible dimensions? What net cubic feet would you like? What tuning would you like?

Those Crecsendo's do come with gain knobs you know 99% of the time when an amplifier fails, it's due to user error. I would just stick with your original plan and save the headache.