pherz1er

decided to yank out my old yellow top a clean it up a bit(The wiring looks pretty good so I could not bring my self to just leave it). I put it in the car when I bought it and I had not touched it since. Its still going strong after almost 6 years and I probably will not replace it until I have to. I'm hoping to pick up a couple more for the trunk in the near future. Before After: I <3 magic erasers

Here's a pic of the second sub. I finished painting the magnet(still needs to be buffed out). Now I just have to polish the spokes and paint the basket. I'm hoping to get these done soon. Here's the fuse mount polished/sanded. its ready for paint. The fuse holder mount now matches the subs. [/

techflex and heat shrink- The color I picked is called carbon which is half black and half clear. heres some pics. Wire,techflex and my cheapo hot knife. Cut(flexo recomends the use of a hot knife so this stuff does not fray. Mine sucks BTW). Shrink Done I finished most of my power wire(ran out of heat shrink). Now I just have to do the rca's and speaker wire. I plan to manage all of the wire with cable tie mounting pads atached with both the adhesive backing and trim screws. btw:Sorry for posting every small detail that most could care less about. Just trying to make the thread as complete as possible

I had a scrap piece of aluminum laying around so I decided to use it to make a little shelf to hold up my under hood fuse. It still needs some sanding/finishing work and haven't made brackets yet, but here's some pics just to give you the idea.

I removed all of my interior and old wiring so I could start on the deadening. I finished 3 layers on the fire wall, floor pan and under the rear seats but the trunk and roof still need to be done. I also laid down some 1/2" foam(the same stuff I used on the doors). I made sure to test fit the carpet, seats and panels before I glued it down so I would know where to leave the foam out to avoid fitment problems (This is why it looks patchy). I wasn't really happy with the way the foam turned out, but I'm sure it will do the job just fine. my old wires. I plan to reuse most of the wiring with the exception of a few things. fyi...The center chanel is from the previous system and will not be staying. foam prep spray adhesive The seat is back in because this is my daily driver and I will not have time to finish today.

subs: First, I taped off the the top plate of the motor to avoid anything getting in the VC gap. Then I went to town on the back of the motor. (This started out rough.kind of like FI motors). I sanded it smooth then hit it with 400 grit before I applied the metal etching primer. painted the motor black and sanded all 12 spokes with 120,220,320,400,600,1000,and 2000 grit sand paper. After the 2000 grit wet sand I polished them with mothers aluminum polish and a dremel tool. Then instead of masking the spokes I applied a very thin coat of hand soap to the polished areas and let it dry. This is so the paint will wash off those areas after the paint has dried.(see pics). Here's pics of the finished product after a coat of wax. One down... One more to go. And yes...they will be mounted inverted. I got all the glue off of the surround and spider landings. [/

3 layers of deadening some clay and 1/2" foam on the back of the door panel.

Passenger side. knu Konceptz 12 ga. wire 4 lbs. of black non-drying clay The little nylon spacers are to keep the dust cap from hitting the door panel.(for some reason it sticks out a little further than the mounting flange I also added some 1/2" foam to the inside of the door panels (sorry no pics). So far the doors seem pretty solid.

The amp rack was finished before I decided to post this stuff up so the best I can do is show how it is constructed.

So I need to build some sort of custom door pods for the hsk mids??

I have hertz hsk 165 comps in the doors the tweeters are a little further than I would like from the mid (due to using holes from a previous owners install) and the 6.5's are silghtly tilted towards the drivers seat. The 10's can be mounted completely on axis if need be. what would you recomend???

Thanks man, Glad you like it.

Here it is with the "p" fixed and in the burnt orange color. And heres a screen shot so you can compare the colors(I put it in the only blank spot I could find).

Thanks man!! here it is colored.

Cleaned it up a little so you could see the letters a bit better.

Yeah, if it ends up getting picked I can change anything up he wants. I kept it black and white because it will save $$$.(only one screen needs to be used for tee shirts and what not.) Also by "definition" do you mean losing those spike shaped cuts that are in the letters???

Here what I came up with... Those are just quick ones btw and can be changed/cleaned up if need be.

I will be getting my ssa icon 15's reconed soon(hopfully)and thought I would give them a few personal touches. The question I have is. Should I polish the front of the spokes??(already tried one.. see pic) or go all black? thanks in advance, btw: before anyone asks,Yes.. I have posted this on another forum already.

Looks great so far!!! I think you should try satin black. it will look 10x better than gloss. just my opinion though...

How much would it cost to recone an ssa icon 15"???? thanks in advance

NM: how much for ssa to recone it?

does that include return shipping???

I'm new to the SS product line and the SS forums so I'm sure this is a stupid question. I want to a single RL-p 12" for my wifes car and it would be great if I could use her old prefab box.So the big question is...... Will it work??? Here are the specs: 2.18 cubic feet tuned to 40 Hertz ports are 25.00 square inches. Thanks in advance!!!

Every thing but the front baffle(its 1.50") I also have a 1.2cf sealed box I can use if that would work better. BTW There is a chance I can use the xenon amp in my car and buy my wife something better suited for the Rl-p. what do you recomend????