hdrox88

Well that blows, where was RF r&d on that one? Kinda turns me off to them altogether now. I always wondered why something just never sounded right in the years I've run this amp. I just chalked it up to poor install procedure, now I know why. Of course install is still important.

I have a 2002 tahoe with stock alt and dual battery setup and I never drop below 13.8v when warm. Cold start is somewhere around 14.6v. I'm not sure if yours has e-fans, but I had a 2005 Sierra that had e-fans(they started that year) and when they kicked on at op temp they would draw a lot of power, enough that the idle would actually hesitate for a split second.

I was trying to use it for a two way active setup, so 2ch mode would be no good for me. Is that true of all rockford amps? Sounds pretty shifty to me for their top line of amps to have that kind of issue. One thing I didn't check is L to R cross talk, that would not be fixed by a 2ch switch and would not be very good for the clarity of the sound either.

Is that with all heavy electrical draw off, limited to just necessary stuff for driving? Or is that with gear at full output?

Running active simply removes passive crossovers from the equation. You manipulate the signal before it gets amplified. Time alignment and other adjustments together will set the stage for driver or passenger. Going active just opens up the available adjustability. Of course, this is my understanding of it, so take it with a grain of salt. I'm working on my first active setup myself right now.

I too, typically run by this philosophy. The Draconia looks very nice, just don't want to push the tweeters too far. I know you can adjust gains to suit, but being my first active install, I am slightly nervous about tweeters. They seem so fragile, haha.

It makes a slight volume difference when switching back and forth, but that's it.

So, I recently purchased a set of ID X65 and XS28 to run active. Got everything installed and working correctly yesterday and today one of the tweeters just stopped dead in it's tracks. I'd say about an hour of play time. I tested the driver for continuity and got nothing so it's definitely the tweeter that failed. I am running a RF T400-4 with the tweeters on front channels and the mids on the rears. I set gains with a DD-1 to the 0db track and all pass for xover on the amp. I crossed the tweets at 2.5k with 24db slope to start with. I am using the network mode on my pioneer 80prs for xover duty. Was this just a faulty unit? Or am I doing something wrong? Any help is appreciated.

Using my ipad mini and 3.5mm to rca cable I confirmed major cross talk within the amp. With the mids connected to the rear channels of the amp I connected my ipad to the amp rear input and listened to how it sounded. I then connected to the front input(tweeter disconnected of course) and I should have head nothing, but it was almost as loud as when connected the the rear, but with a faint buzz in there as well. I decided to swap the mids to the front channels of the amp to see if it was happening that way as well and sure enough, same damn thing. Apparently my T400-4 is junk?

I wasn't planning on using it anymore, my curiosity just got the best of me with the low battery thing and it may have uncovered a problem in my amp. I'll be using lithium's suggestion and isolating the amplifier to see what's up with that crosstalk I stumbled across.

Yup, it's in 4ch mode. It is definitely raising a concern if channels are exchanging signals like that at lower volume, what happens at higher volume? Unfortunately I don't have another 4ch amp to swap with right now. I drove around for about 30 minutes after work just listening to the two mids and one tweeter and going up and down with the volume on the hu and I never really heard any noticable stress or degrading of the high end til I got to 61 which is alomst the max(62). Could definitely use some eq, but that's kinda pointless with only one tweeter right now.

I am pretty sure it's set to 4ch mode. I'll have to check after work. It wasn't a perfect duplicate tone though. It was kinda fluctuating in hz and sounded lower than 1k.

I checked the battery in the DD-1and it was down to 8.1v. Curiosity got the best of me so I replaced it with a new one and checked my hu and gain settings to see if there was any difference at all. Nothing changed at all with the new battery. I did notice something interesting. I had tweeters(front channels) disconnected and mids(rear channels) still connected. I disconnected the rear RCA from the amp and left the front connected. I played a 1k hz tone to test with the DD-1 on the front channels and my mids on the rear were playing a quasi inconsistent/distorted 1k hz tone. That is a completely different set of channels yet they still produced sound. I would think that is not a good thing. Is that a sign of amp problems? If the mids are getting a 1k hz distorted signal across channels like that, could that mean that the tweets are getting distorted/unfiltered lower frequencies from the mid channels? Not defending the DD-1, just wondering if I don't have an underlying problem in the amp?

I never burned anything up til using the DD-1. I always used passive set ups though, so going active makes me nervous about killing things trying to find the sweet spot for the gain. I ended up down one tweet anyway, go figure. I guess it's back to my rock music for setting up my amps. Is using test tones with your ears any more accurate than music? Never tried it, kinda curious.

Excellent! That would probably explain why I smoked my xcon on 1700w. Another one of those things in life to good to be true. Expensive lesson to say the least.

I've seen mixed reviews on the DD-1. Apparently it's really that bad? I blew a tweeter within an hour of use. Why make such a product if it causes that kind of failure?

Just one of them went out, the working one measured 3.9 ohm when tested.

I think I am pretty much turned off to the whole door trim mounting thing after this discussion and some other reading. I am still curious why having two mids in a door is a terrible idea if properly installed? It is done countless times, it certainly can't be that bad? As to the best buy poor comment, that is why I am trying to do it right this time. I'm tired of being left with a mediocre satisfaction when everything is in.

Please forgive my ignorance, but if I am to mount two speakers in a door that originally had one, isn't the common method to fiberglass the plastic door trim? Or am I missing something? This will be my first time doing a serious install instead of just sticking speakers in a door an amping them. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I dive in. Hopefully this is also helping the OP with their question.

What he said...the only account I have found of someone actually using these was someone that put double layers of sound deadener on the backside and fiberglassed them to the door panel on the inside. He had nothing but great things to say about them, even after listening to them play. I'm definitely not set on getting these things, but I'm not writing them off either. I may just get them and see what can be done. I'm no audiophile, but getting clean sound can't take that much voodoo for me to be happy.

Care to elaborate?

I am actually talking with that company right now as I am considering some for my personal use. Someone on another car audio forum used them and gave some insight and seemed to be happy with them. I'll be doing the dual pods in my tahoe.

PM'd about IA6.4

Call me dumb, but what is Fi's X series? A discontinued line?

I have never used autotek but if it puts out 100rms at 4 ohm to each channel you would have more than enough power. I would imagine a set -up like that would sound really good. There is tons of info on this forum to help with the install if you plan to do it yourself.