hdrox88

The problem with people like this is they get so caught up in trying to be right or prove someone else wrong that they can't take a step back from it all and CHECK THEMSELVES and say hmm...maybe I am in the wrong here, let alone admit it.

Attempting to set the gain with reference to the "rated" pre-out voltage is typically not going to get the best results. Especially since you have to have the volume on that particular hu maxed out to reach close to the 5v. I tested mine(80prs) for curiosity sake and hit 4.9vac at max volume with a 40hz tone iirc.

Ah, now that makes much more sense, lol. No worries, I was being sarcastic with the "hooray" and without tone of voice it lost its true meaning. Thanks to all who have given advice. Once I have my xcon back, I'll readdress this situation and find the cause. Kinda tough to figure it out with a broken sub.

I understood it correctly, I meant that I'll be shipping my xcon to them today.

Just placed my order and should be shipping out today. Hooray, wait time. Should have plenty of time to do up my doors, complete the big 3, and build a ported box. Thinking 4ft^3 net @ ~32hz should be a good start.

Why thank you. As for the enclosure type, the Xcon does perform well sealed. But, if you want to step up the output, you can see plenty of people are suggesting going ported. I am not sure where the hiccup in the system is. SDS will help, I know it did in my little wagon. Do you know if the recone was done at our build house or by the person you bought the subwoofer from? The guy I got it from claimed it was brand new, and it sure looked like it. But who knows for sure other than he? I was going to go ported pretty soon, but now I'll be sending it in for a recone myself as I killed it. Sealed box kept me from smelling it heating up and I let the smoke out of it. I'm pretty sure it doesn't make a difference in what is going on here, but it is an early model with the pole vent. I assume sending it in for a recone wouldn't be a problem?

I'm looking toward sub or enclosure. When the xcon was swapped for the mtx boxes, those things slammed the higher bass notes pretty well. Wasn't too loud on the lows but it shook my steering wheel. The only thing that was changed was sub and box. All other settings and equipment stayed the same. What's the chances that the sub I got could have had something wrong with it, or it was a poor recone when I got it? I didn't buy from ssa :/

Well, I don't plan on swapping out the X65s anytime soon. I've had four different sub set ups in this truck all on the same amp and the xcon was the only one to have the problem I am talking about, so I'm not sure mid bass is going to fix it.

I gave that test a shot. I pushed the cone in about 1 inch and held it for about 5 seconds. When I quickly released it took about a full second for it to recover. This is really getting strange. If there is a weak link in my install somewhere, I definitely want to find it. I might note that I bought it off a guy on craigslist. He had a 15 and an 18. They were brand new and he claimed he was a dealer. It was wrapped in plastic and in the shipping box. It also looked and smelled like new so I felt pretty comfortable with the deal.

It's at 80hz, not sure of the slope right now.

here are some other ideas/questions. but i think the problem is enclosure related. you sure the xover setting is accurate, markings on the amp are usually off. what about the front stage? have you tried moving the box around the cargo area? have you tried changing the phase (if the amp has a setting?) or swapping the polarity? I set the lpf on the amp all the way up and used the lpf on the hu to take care of crossover duty.Front stage is ID XS65. Awaiting the sds order to maximize their potential. Not much mid bass right now. I moved the box around and faced it different ways and ended up with it up against the back seat(no third row) firing back toward the hatch door. Any other way and the output would drop significantly. Swapping polarity made very little difference, though I didn't play with the phase knob at all. The box was made of 3/4" mdf, all glue, no screws. No air leaks or rattles coming from the box. I'm thinking sealed isn't all it's cracked up to be. Though according to ebp on this sub ported>sealed. I also used your duct seal idea and am running my tweets up high in the door with grills off and the difference is pretty impressive. Gonna try a pillar a few inches above dash next week or so. I might need to start a build log or something the way this is going. Never done that before though.

That's what I thought at first, but the boost knob on the amp was zeroed and the hu was zeroed as well on the sub level and with a flat eq.

Not sure why this comment deserved a negative rep, but whatever. Your impression was wrong. A better box will give a better response. I think I misused the term transient trying to describe what was going on here. Sorry for that. It seemed like the response peaked at about 35-40hz and dropped off fast anything above about 50hz. Anything with any sort of speed or staccato to it just kind of ran together. You could tell there were separate notes or kick bass beats, but there wasn't much of any separation to them.

I have a order from SDS due to arrive on Wednesday so I'll be addressing my doors/mids fairly soon.

A larger ported box was soon to come, but now that the sub needs a recone I was just looking for some insight to help lead me in the right direction. The sealed box seems to be the problem in this equation, along with my judgement to run it that way.

I was under the impression that a sealed enclosure would give more accurate response. Many people have said that the xcon does great sealed.

That was my next step, but I fried it. I am trying to decide on sending it in for a recone and waiting to get it back so I can do that, or swipe that Magnetar from Sencheezy.

I have the same amp and in the book it shows where .2v is which is all the way to the right, that with telling him to back off a bit i'm sure he will be safe, plus I have called maxxsonics on this very issue a couple times : )I'm not trying to get into any great debate, but what you are recommending would cause more than one problem. If his head unit was rated for 2.5v where does the .2v setting come from? Not that head unit ratings are great to go by anyway.

The bass knob on these amps is more of a bass cut knob. If you have the knob turned all the way up, it will be the same output as if you didn't have it connected at all. But turn it down and it cuts back on the output.

Please don't do that. Turning your gain way up like that is going to kill something for sure. Unfortunately, there is no "set it to this" solution. You will have to rely on your own ears unless you have someone else that has some experience with this matter on hand.

Eh...? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/ele/4366612410.html

Wow I'm slacking, I was responding to the 2400w amp post and like three more pulled in before me. Lol

Yes sir, but it may already be loud enough for you on the amp you mentioned.

The amp puts out 1200w x 1 channel. It doesn't care how many subs are attached, so long as the load(ohm) isn't too low. The more subs you have, the more the power gets divided between them.

Sorry to burst your bubble, but each sub will only get 600w with what you have. The amp power will be divided between the two subs. Edit, Alton got it.