hdrox88

Just watched the vid, I was just waiting for the port to eat that little tree...

He is probably pretty busy. Sometimes emails slip through the cracks as well. He was super helpful when I was emailing him about a month ago and ordered my products. I was super happy all the way around.

Hmm, you've piqued my interest now as well. I'm right at the two month mark for my recone and getting a little anxious, though I'm just trying to be patient.

Those are the subs I was actually looking at, only I saw them on eBay. They were priced lower on eBay so it really had me thinking about it. I am currently waiting on a recone myself, having three on hand could get pretty fun. On a side note, permanent switch to the dome cap? I'm sure plenty of people, myself included, would be saddened by that.

Shoulda, coulda, woulda. There was a lot of smoke that came out of the box when I pulled the sub out. It stopped dead in its tracks when playing, no warning and no drop in output. Just 100% died.

I did notice breakup when pushing it, at least I think that would be the term for it. I first noticed the vocals start to get a little distorted so I stopped there of course. It was still getting louder when the sound went to crap. I like the way they sound as they are, so I guess it would be overall output that I'm looking for. A little extra mid bass is welcomed, but not necessary.

I figured as much, it was just distracting with the tweeters sounding the way they were. I was able to tame it a little bit. For three times the power, the mids did get louder, but not as much as I would have hoped. What I did notice was that the mid bass frequencies woke up a bit and the sound overall was more controlled, detailed if you will. I'd say I'm on the fence about buying the 2ch amp as of now. I like the sound with the power increase, but it still isn't loud enough for my random crank the volume moments. I am thinking that in order for me to be happy from a output standpoint I may need to end up with some ES mini horns and IB capable 8" pa mid in the door. I'd definitely get input on driver selection here before I made that leap though. On a side note, I'm not sure what "hot" is for speakers but with outside temps of 100+ here I measured up to 150 degrees at the phase plug after wailing on it for about an hour. Raytek IR thermometer.

I had some time today and gave it a shot. It seemed like the tweeters got a little messy. The mids seemed more controlled, but not a whole lot louder. Of course, I had to cut back on the mids a bit to match the tweeters. I'll have to play with it some more, but the tweeters on hu power aren't very promising.

I have the mids high pass at 80hz and low pass at 3.15khz. I am slightly concerned about the idea of headroom as I listen to newer rock and alt music so there isn't much in the way of dynamics. I listen to lots of different stuff, but rock is one of my staples.

The mids are in stock location in the doors with 3/4" mdf baffle. CCF between mid and baffle, EBR between baffle and door. Doors are done up with SDS products as Don recommends. Tweeters are currently on top of the dash at the pillar. Driver side tweet on axis to passenger and passenger side tweet on axis to driver. In place with duct seal til I find a final location and method of install. I am sure these won't be the last drivers I have, but I'd like to see how far I can take them as they are fairly impressive on 60wrms. I have linked my build log as well. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/62246-2001-tahoe-daily-driver/

As someone who recently took the active plunge as well as ditched rear speakers, I have to say, these guys know their stuff. I'll never run rears after what I've been doing so far. I still have a long way to go but I'm hearing things never heard before over the few passive sets I've heard. Proper install and taming rattles in the doors is pretty important. An active setup is a little overwhelming at first and can be frustrating, but if you are as good with your ears as you lead on, it should help quite a bit.

If only I wasn't waiting on an xcon to be reconed... Good luck to you

I finally got around to finishing off the doors. While it did help a bit compared to just sticking speakers in the doors, I wasn't blown away by some night and day difference. Now comes tweeter placement and 2-way active tuning. Any pointers in the tuning department for an active noob would be greatly appreciated. Kinda wingin it right now and it's getting better, but getting that solid center stage seems to be too elusive for me right now.

No problem. That's what we're all here for anyway, right?

I am not sure if your car has a factory amplifier for the speakers, but my 2001 tahoe with onstar does. When I did my HU install I just bought the basic harness to tap into the power, ground, acc, speakers, etc. since the onstar systems in the earlier 2000s are analog and can't be used anyway. If your car has a factory amplifier and is anything like my tahoe, there was a remote turn on wire for the factory amp that was in the smaller of the two connectors on the back of my radio. It was the pink wire in my case. Just wanted to give you fair warning in case you hook up the basic harness and you get no sound out of the speakers.

Well, this is an audio forum after all so I guess I better get some info about what I'm working with in here. I ordered a nice box of goodies from SDS for my doors, 41lbs later. I thought this was pretty cool, props to Don for including such an item. Most companies would have just left you to the sticky mess of EBR to fight with it on your own. Stripped down and wiped with a wet rag. 5 CLD tiles on the inner and outer skins. 3/4" MDF, sharpie, and a jigsaw. Oh, can't forget the ID mid! After some dremel work and 3 heavy coats of plastidip spray. A little extruded butyl rope here and about 3 feet of it stuffed between the outer door skin and the impact beam. Anchoring the door skin to the impact beam in this way made a big difference in the resonation from tapping and flicking to look for problem areas. Velcro time... Most of the rattles in my door were coming from the loose fitting wire loom brackets. A couple layers of closed cell foam fixed it right up. This stuff is deceivingly heavy. MLV makes its way to the door. It was dark by the time I had finished trimming the MLV enough to get the door panel back on so no pics of the aftermath, yet. A little dremel work on the door panel so the surround doesn't touch...voila. Powering this whole mess for now is a Pioneer 80PRS to a Zapco ST-4X. Network mode running active for the first time... I am not completely finished yet as I still have some 3M acoustic to put in the door panels and find a permanent location for the tweeters(ID XS28). For now I have them on the a-pillars firing across the windshield. I used duct seal to mount them temporarily, thanks to lithium for the tip on that one. I also want to get a Zapco ST-2X for the tweeters so I can bridge the ST-4X with the mids for 180wrms per side.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371016852574?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Got a package in yesterday... $89 shipped and it included some xenon/halogen low beam bulbs(not installed yet). Not bad, though there were a few things that the chinese failed on. I kind of expected it, but it's still a let down when you are trying to install and have to brainstorm a bit to make it work. Oh well, I'm happy with how it looks.

Ignorant crying arrogant? I say, how rude! (In a British accent) For sake of Mark and Aaron's sanity I hope this isn't another MDWerner situation.

I was just playing around with my phone(S3) today to see how it did with recording audio. Nothing amazing, but it works. Don't mind the incomplete installation, I take my time with it.

99% sure they are DJM coils. Pretty sure it was just 2" in the rear, though it was already lowered when I bought it so it could be the 3" coils for all I know. The bilstein 4600 doesn't seem to have enough compression damping for the heavy ass of this thing.

Thanks guys, I really like the look I have going so far. I just ordered some black housing headlights and parking lights tonight so that should finish up the front as the tails are already painted/tinted. I eventually want to get to a fab shop and get my bumper horns dropped so I can get the silverado HD hood, grill and bumper cap. I absolutely love HD Tahoes. Here are some side shots as requested.

Well, my sub arrived to it's destination on April 8th so it might be another couple weeks before I can figure out what the problem is. I really noticed the issue on double bass drum beats. Instead of quick, tight bum-bum-bum. It would play huhhuhhuh, if that makes any sense as all.

Air/Wind=air molecules moving Air/Propagation=air molecules moving Air/Vibration=air molecules moving Is this debate about if a subwoofer or a leaf blower can move air? Or where they are moving the air to? If you don't believe a subwoofer makes an air molecule move in one way or another...

Ok, I'll have a go at this. Do I have a degree? No, so take this for what it is. Just my basic understanding of "motion" and reading as an outside party on this debate. Ramteid says a subwoofer(AC) does not move air in the same fashion that a leaf blower(DC) moves air. Both do move air molecules, just not in quite the same fashion. Put two one way check valves on a sealed subwoofer enclosure, one as an inlet, the other as an outlet. Does the subwoofer move air when it is playing? When you overheat your subwoofer and the coil starts to stink, how does the smell get from the location of the subwoofer in the rear of your vehicle to the location of your nose in the front of the vehicle? Put a large plastic bag on the end of a leaf blower. Run it for one second. Reverse polarity or whatever is needed to operate the motor in reverse. Run it for one second. What happened? Movement is movement, but I'm not seeing that as the problem here. It seems that the argument is that AC motion and DC motion are different, while both are still a form of movement. While one + - cycle of a subwoofer cone won't send one particular air molecule from the sub to the front seat at a single shot. It is possible for the molecule to eventually get there as it moves around with its buddies. This probably helped no one. But in the slim chance that it would, there was my .02