hdrox88

I sure miss the bikes I've had. I'd just ride for hours with nowhere to go. It like zen time for me.

Yes, I trimmed the door card. They are on 3/4" mdf rings with ebr between wood and door metal, ccf between wood and basket. I kinda like the look of the shiny screws, though you're right, painting them would be a little more stealth as that is what I'm going for in the front end.

Honda, Thanks for the comments, I have always liked the 99-07 GM trucks and SUVs. They are pretty easy to work on in my experience as well. I had a xs28 tweet fail on me and when I contacted ID about it they sent me a new one, no charge. I'll send them the same photos of the mids and see what comes of it.

It sucks for sure, makes for a neat paper weight tho! When I would swap from stock to aftermarket speakers I would hear things in the music never heard with the stock speakers. Swapping from the ID to the Seas, I am having that experience all over again. The control and clarity is great!

I was swapping out the ID XS65 for a set of Seas CA18RNX today and found something quite interesting. I had been complaining about the XS making a strange irritating sound and occasional scratchy coil noises in another thread. I thing I found the problem. These cones are literally cracking/tearing and I have not had them very long. I could see them overheating with 180w, but this seems a little more interesting. The two pics are one of each mid. I didn't take any progress pics as a speaker swap is pretty straight forward. Here is the finished product for today. It didn't take much work at all to get them sounding pretty good. I do have a gnarly peak at 2500hz that is right in the middle of two of my eq points. Oh the woes of a 16 band graphic eq. Other than that I am very happy with the switch. They are getting half the power the IDs were and are significantly louder in the mid range. Mid bass got a slight bump, though with a little more power and some play time I am sure they will do nicely. Thanks again to all who helped in the other thread, job well done! First time with the Jasper circle guide, made the rings a breeze. If you have a router, you should have a circle guide.

I was just typing out the same method, is it me or is there something backwards here? If you are using LP on the sub, would you not start above the target freq and move down? For mids with HP, start below and work up?

The second round dust cap reminds me of the Boston G5 I had.

Time to make some dust...

Did the 4500 end up selling?

I sent a pm about this a little while ago but never heard anything back. Still available?

It is pretty difficult to tell how attitude comes across on the internet. JUst stating my observation. At any rate, if you are happy with the price to performance ratio, that is what matters.

Most the people on this site don't say stuff just for the hell of it. You are quickly coming off with a know-it-all attitude, at least to me, and are likely to not get the help you are looking for on this site. No one can know the extent or credibility of your knowledge in the audio world, so they start with the basics. There is a wealth of knowledge here, take advantage of it. I know I am, I contribute when I can too.

It sounds like they will be using the factory location which fires straight up and is all the way forward to the glass.

I'm not sure if you have been in the doors of one of these cars, but the panel is a major pita. If you don't have a panel tool, I suggest getting one for this job. I broke several push clips in my 08 charger I had. They aren't the typical Xmas tree style, they have a receiving end in the door itself as well. They are very brittle too.

Just ordered a set of the CA variety. I figure starting with a well known, easy to tune speaker is better for me so I can get a good grasp on what I am doing. Thanks to all for the help and patience. My build log will get an update once they show up.

Have you tried pulling it out of the dash and physically holding it in your hands? Might let you know if it's the shaking/vibration or just the pressure alone that is doing it. Is building extra bracing in the dash an option?

Could it be the iPod itself being disrupted? Sit on it so the seat and your rump can protect it, or use a long cable out of the vehicle. Could the source button be sensitive combined with a unique vibration in your dash? Maybe hold the hu in your hands while playing? Just tossing out random ideas as I have no experience with my 80prs doing this. I'm nowhere near 150db so can't say for sure.

Lol, I hear ya. When I pulled the factory speakers out of mine at 147k miles the cone and surround we're completely separated 100% on both sides. Half the surround was gone, dust in the wind. Had to be the second worse sounding stereo I've ever heard.

Scotch guard should work, so long as it doesn't break down the cone material, lol. It seems like a pretty foolproof remedy. I read somewhere about people stretching pantyhose over the back of the speaker and scotch guarding that. I would think that they would shred pretty soon and become useless.

That's what I figured. The only thing mentioned about the ER is "edge coated" so I am unsure of the durability when exposed to the environment in a door.

When you say they were treated, does that mean there was actually a coating on them to help? I am not sure about the ER in question here.

Would you happen to recall if there was any type of coating on the back of the ER? If they are anything better than the midbass of the XS65 I am pretty much sold on them. I am just worried about them falling apart quickly if they aren't protected in the door.

My list has changed and narrowed slightly. I removed some for price and lack of availability concerns and added another that I stumbled onto. New list in order of interest according to reading specs and reviews: 1. Seas ER18RNX - This has my attention right now after everything I have been reading about them. Only concern with this driver is dealing with the elements as I don't think it has any coating. AZ heat can get extreme in the car, and monsoon season is upon us. Buckets of water can be flowing through a door in a flash storm here. Scotchguard spray may be useful here? 2. Seas L18RNX - Needing LPed at 2khz isn't an issue with my XS28s. The low-mid and mid-bass detail people praise these for is pulling at me considering the amount of rock I listen to. 3. Seas CA18RNX - Pulling a close 3rd on the list due to wide range and neutral, easy to tune characteristics. 4. Aurum Cantus AC165/50CK - Chinese made has me a little worried. Larger voice coil and higher power handling is promising, as well as zaph testing on this driver.

Where did you do the splicing? At the rear speaker? Or behind the HU? All you did was tap into the wires, or did anything get cut? GM does some funny things sometimes with their stereo integration. I had to just through a few hoops myself at one point in my tahoe.

You lost me at enclosure, but hey, there is a first time for everything. 3" coil in a 6" mid? Holy hell...