trbolvr

Working on a project car that has a Polar Start PS-2700 installed. Looking to find installer programming info on this unit. I found the user manual so far but nothing on installer programming. Unit is in a 94 Buick Lesabre Limited and the parking lights stay on after the 15 min run period. They will stay on until the battery is drained. Could be a wiring or hardware problem but I would like start by checking the program options first. Unit is about 10 years old, two button remote. Thanks in advance.

My apologies to Shizzzon for my outburst in the below (now locked for some reason?) post. I should have stated my own opinion and then offered reasons to back it up instead of a personal dig.

Copied from earlier post below by Shizzzon. quick answer- A cap will discharge EVERYTHING in it's bank when a rush of current is requested... A battery will compensate for the current requested when the alternator can't or the regulator doesn't react fast enough. If you could.. try and imagine your battery going completely dead then back to recharging every other few seconds?!?! You can't imagine that at all.. So, you got your alt, a big battery bank and a big ass cap- The cap will ALWAYS be getting drained and recharged all the time... What's recharging it? The alternator... When it's doing that, it's providing less power to the audio system which results in more voltage drop because the battery(ies) must compensate more... Now, when the batts are being used more... every split second when when there is no demand for current, the alt must charge the batts back up too!!! Keep playin music like that... your voltage will continue to drop and drop.... That's why caps are BAD! They were even tested in a comp setup for power draw... IF a cap can disperse current quicker.. it should provide the amp with more power... A 600w amp was tested.. using a cap suited for the amp, the amp only outputted an additional 3w! 3 WATTS! Wow.... at that rate... u can just give me your money if u plan on blowing it.. Caps are useless period. After reading the above post I have come to the conclusion that you don't know what you are talking about and I urge others to take your thoughts on this issue with a grain of salt. I'm not here to question the merits of batteries or caps, they really are completely different animals and have their own place in a car audio system. Just pointing out your flawed reasoning and obvious lack of knowledge regarding electronics/electricity.

Looks like your idea is close to working.... almost. To pull off an active system like your thinking with a true 3 way active network you need to have bandpass capability for your midrange/midbase drivers. As far as I can tell the KX3 does NOT have this feature. It has a 20x multiplier for the front high pass wich would work for a set of tweaters, but no low pass for the rear (not sub) output. I run my truck 3 way active with a 5 channel amp and run my rear speakers off the h/u for rear fill only. After living with a full active system for almost 10 years I will never go back to using passive crossovers. It's just too dang easy with all the crossover features in todays amps to bother with inacurate power robbing passive networks (imo). Maybe not so easy to find such amps, but easy to install. My next project for my work van will be a 3 way active centered around a MB Quart PAB-5400 or Hi Fonics ZXI8010. Hope this helps.

Going to build a small sealed box with a 12" sub powered with my Sundown SAE1200. More for sound quality than spl. Been looking at these two. SSA DCON 12 and Sundown SA-12. Will the DCON hold up when driven with 600w ? I think it's rated for 300. Anyone have experiance with either of these? It looks like the Icon 12 would be a better match for this amp, but it is priced a bit higher. Let me know your opinion.