razman

ok, let's start with the stupid question, are 0 gauge & 1/0 gauge cable the same or are they diff & some people just don't realize it? I see people advertise 0 gauge power cable but the pic has 1/0 clearly stamped on cable. 2nd, I will be using 1/0 with an inline 300a fuse approx 4" from batt. It will go into a non fused dist block to 3 amps.(2g out, & 4g x 2 out) Do I need to to refuse between the block & the amps or does the inline protect all wiring past that point? duhhh, found answer to 3rd question! BTW I finally have everything except the wire & alt so in a week or so I will post some pics of everything & the box build. I know how everyone loves pics on this forum!

Holy s**t! How much are you guys paying for alts? I called H.O. Alts & to replace my stock 130 amp with an oem repl 210 amp is $699.00. That doesn't incl tax, ship, etc! BTW this is the only one that won't require any mods or interfere with ecu so it's the cheapest route. Just got sticker shock & wanted to see if this was an average price. Called a couple local places but thier alts require a lot of other hassels with stock elec system.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Doge-Ram-Ru...1QQcmdZViewItem

ok gimme the dumbazz award for repost, I can take it just listed again yesterday. thought someone actually bought before, guess not.

How much will having a bend in a round port affect tuning & sound? Not talkin like 90's, maybe a 30-45 at most. Is there a way to compensate for it w/ length or something or just trial & error? Bigger port maybe? ie 5" port 30 deg bend compared to 3" port with same bend?

yup, I agree, make sure your amp/speakers etc are in order first. Not to get off topic, but I think the car audio enviroment has many other factors that need to be addressed first as compared to HT. My car system which is my first "real" sytem breaks down to 40% Speakers/subs, 30% 2nd amp (already had 1 amp from years ago not counted), 25% hu, & that left 5% & some serious budget shopping for wire/cable! Box build was not included so Lowes card for early B-day present came in handy! HT is generally up to 10% budget for cables, so as Supa said, unless you have some seriously high end gear it won't matter. I have heard the diff cables can make, but as I will never have an $80k+ system it's a moot point for me. I seriously doubt in my car that I would hear much diff between budget or high end wire. At least not enough to justify the extra $. Anyway, I found HT to be very frustrating at times & not the most enjoyable, but am totally hooked on the car audio now & having fun! Hopefully someday I'll have the know how & setup to compete. hmmm wasn't the original thread starter just someone showing the new rca cables they got? oh well, can't remember!

nice cables! Why all the fuss??? I'm personally happy with my $40 rca's & entry level speaker wire cause I have enough $ left to put gas in my car & buy groceries! I'm a noob to car audio & don't know how much I'd advocate spending on cables, but in HT, cables make a HUGE difference. I didn't know this until I heard for myself. Listened to a HT system wired with Audio Magic & HOLY CHIT! I was a believer. Like night & day over entry level. Just can't afford anything like that. As far as gold cables I believe Siltech & Transparent both make them. If $180 isn't enough for y'all, you can pick up a 3meter set of Siltech G6 sig rca's for $25,000.00 or Transparent mm's for $19,000.00. Tara Labs is a little more reasonable at $16,000.00 for Zero. Anyway, if you can afford & have an audiophile ear, $180 is nothing. More power to ya & enjoy!

I just bought enough 1/0 at welders supply to wire up amp, do the big 3, probably have 20 ft left over & wasn't much more than one of those kits!

Check out secrets to box building pinned in Competition & Fabrication on this forum. It helped me out a lot. Local lumber yard, lowes, home depot etc for mdf, glue, etc. 2ohm load with a dual vc 4 ohm driver pos to both pos terminals on driver & neg to both neg terminals on driver.

started brainstorming & decided to redo my whole system instead of just adding the rlp 15's. I'm looking for decent sq but want to be loud as well. My general knowlegde of car audio is ok (learned a lot on this forum! ) but my knowlegde of sq & how to set it up really sucks. My car has the stock chrysler infinity system in it which isn't a bad setup imo but it really lacks the ability to get loud. It's the 7 speaker system w/ 1 dash tweet, 2 front door pillar tweets, 2 front door 6.75's & the rear shelf speakers. As much as I would love a top o' the line component system, I'm pretty muched tapped with the hu, 15's, amps & everything that went with it. I have it narrowed down to 3 choices & would really appreciate your guys' opinions on which is best. 1: leave it set up the way it is & just upgrade the tweets & speakers to ones that can handle more power & use single speakers like 3 or 4 way 6.75's & 6x9's. 2: do option 1 plus add 2 rear door 6.75's which was actually an option on my car so would be very easy. 3: leave setup the same & get component type to replace existing door & rear shelf. If I went this route I would have to go with an inexpensive system & maybe not worth it unless I'm prepared to spend the $ on high end comp? I'm assuming these weren't just slapped in there & at least a little research went into the placement of the tweets & stuff. My new hu to replace infinity is pioneer deh p77dh direct fit for chrysler. It has front, rear, & sub preamps out so no problem putting power to them. Thanks for any suggestions!

99 chrys concorde lxi I have always hated dash speakers too & usually just eliminate it. I was really suprised at the door pillar tweets though. I unhooked everything except those & they sounded really full & seemed to be in a good spot & angle (right at head level) they just don't get loud & infinity doesn't recommend putting any more power to them than stock. Would that be a good location for new tweets with mids in the doors or should they be kept closer together? I don't really have room for kicker pods & would not be able to change the angle of door mounted by more than a few deg.

Voted Pioneer. Just got my DEH-P77DH 2 days ago. I'm a Mopar guy so gotta love Pioneers oversize units for Mopar!

wow! those look sweet! I may sell my 2 rlp 15's before I even get them out of the box to get my hands on a couple of those!

Yeah, I pretty much used my common sense to figure out that HIGH OUTPUT must be better than stock. Otherwise I wouldn't be dishin out 400$ for one. I'll see how it acts at idle when hooked up & add a cap if any probs.

Bret at Irragi said "Dominator" Series 200 amp / 100 amp idle $289.00 220 amp / 90 amp idle $309.00 "Dominator" Series comes with 90 day warranty, add Lifetime warranty & Exchange program for $99.00. "Amputator" Series 200 amp / 120 amp idle $379.00 220 amp / 110 amp idle $399.00 "Amputator" Series comes with one year warranty, add Lifetime warranty & Exchange program for $99.00 That sounds a hellava lot better to my wallet than the other places. I don't plan on running sound system much with car off & can't think of anywhere I could put another batt anyway without strapping it to the roof! I was planning on the big 3, the alt, & a cap as well. You said the cap is just a bandaid, I can understand that using a cap without ho alt, but do you think it's still a waste with the new alt? I have never used one but it seems with the ho alt it would act as kind of a "cushion" for the alt. Of course I haven't seriously looked & priced yet. May not be worth the $. Thanks for everyones help!

I know that airspace is airspace for the most part, but how far can you go with box shape before it starts to affect sound? I have an area that's too short for 15's so will be using 2 diff heights on box plus shallow wedge in back. Are cubes cubes or will this affect any other factors such as tuning etc.? This is for dual 15's, open box with a single (maybe 2 but haven't decided) slot port of about 75 sq". My main concern is waves getting 'jammed' up in the 4"H, 9"D, 39"W rise in the front of the box. Or maybe that would be a good place for the slot lengthwise? BTW not written on it but width is 39" all the way.

Thanks a lot! That will make things much easier & save a ton of room.

Hello, Just got two rlp 15's & found this forum. Looks like I can spend weeks finding lots of good info on here so I can stop bugging Mike with questions now!

In Tacoma, but when I get the box built, on a quiet night, go outside & you should be able to here my bass!

Thanks, I have emails in to Mean-Green & iraggi, haven't called Excessive yet. Looking at the Iraggi catalog I saw my alt but only up to '97 & I need a '99 so maybe I will just have to suck it up & pay more. They look like they range from 70 to 100 amps at idle for a 220 & after reading the other posts about probs at idle I guess I should spend what it takes to get the highest I can. The big 3 was very informative. I never would have done that, but plan to now as soon as I get the alt.

Can someone tell me a little about the total harmonic distortion value on amps as far as what the max acceptable level should be & what I should look for on one? I have seen most mid range amps at around 0.02 to 0.05. Is this something I need to concern myself with or is the difference going to so little I won't even notice? Thanks

Just got my 15's & building the enclosure. It's going to be a single ported box with both 15's mounted in it. Question I have is should the drivers be completely cutoff from one another via internal divider, partially divided or wide open inside? The enclosure will be either 3/4 or 1" mdf, close to 7 cubic ft if divided, and 1 slot port on each side if divided. If open would I need to cut down on size & could I use 1 slot port? I've never run duals so kind of lost on this. Appreciate any info.

Thanks, that's pretty close to what I was thinking. I originally was going with 35 sq in of port per driver & was thinking around 32-35 hz so I certainly wouldn't need to go below 32. Do you suggest the 5.5 cubes because I'm going with the open box or would that be the optimum size even if going with the divided box? Also how much does input power change what the enclosure dimensions should be? I'll be running 2400W rms @ 1 ohm mono to the set so 1200 each. Mike doesn't advocate that & advises to be extremely cautious at initial setup, but hey, it'll be interesting!