Shogen

shizzz... got any pictures? would love to see how that looks...

Hey guys, I posted this on 180db.com but have yet to get any responses. I just purchased a new Kinetik HC1800 and when I installed it my car was idling so rough that I was scared to continue with it. Let me explain the install first cuz it might have something to do with it. Had an Optima Redtop that was okay but I kept getting the dimming when pumping the tunes. I then bought a 1.2Farad RF capacitor and it was a little better but not by much. So instead of experimenting with upgrading wires yet I decided to purchase the HC1800. Well, cables were too short to reach the battery connectors even when turned 180 to be a little closer. So I went to the hardware store and purchased these which were premade 4 gauge wire .. I basically attached one end to the existing battery terminal bolt and the other end to the 3/8" bolt on my HC1800. Well, since it was so rough I put my old battery back in and it was rough for a few minutes but came back to normal idle I am used to. Would soldering this wire and removing the old terminal be better than what I did? Is this the reasoning for the rough idle crap? Let me know what you guys think.

Can't wait to see how this turns out... Looking for similar setup of sub and enclosure maybe... So I wanna see how it works out.

So you would go Dcon over the Mach5? I am looking to achieve good loudness but GREAT sound... I don't like muddy high freq bass... that's was mids are for... I like em low and loud... So which do you guys think is better at that? Also, I'm looking in terms of a sealed install...

Also would like to know the possible or tested output for idle... Reason why I ask is that my car on the meter is idling around 500-700 rpm I believe..

why so early? lolz... Happy B-day fella!

just put in some Denso IK20 into my Toy Cam 4cyl the other day. They are Iridium and have noticed a few more miles in the past 2-3 weeks since I installed them. go Iridium, like was said. they don't get replaced often and are part of basic function but I wouldn't spend more than 12 a piece... $50 is max, picked mine up from the tropical sort of site and only paid about $10 each.

understandable... I was waiting for a similar response... thanks Duran. If Kyle wants to chime in and second that I will be a little happier inside...

Cool, that is good to hear... I hope you update us all on the thread with the outcome since it would be nice to know whether they were able to extend some amazing customer service in your favor...

So these babies come with a deck of playing cards too? I am gonna look into getting me a pair now... lulz... In all seriousness, they look quite sexy and I wish I didn't have bills from my baddie of a wifey... otherwise!!!

Hey, not my business.. But curious as to how this went? OP have any further information on your situation? I am hearing some good stuff about DC Power and Kyle seems to be pretty active and helpful. (even though he is trying to scare me about my wire extensions)

thanks bearer of bad news... guess I will have to make sure that doesn't happen. heat-shrink and electrical tape here we come. And I think I have some wire loom around my room somewhere.. BTW, did you answer any inquiries lately from the DC Power site? lolz I think I can come up with a method to adhere the mutli-connector/extension piece for my positive wires .... maybe a double-sided tape fixture that will mount to the back side of the battery or on the air filter housing... More to come.

Pics of old connections: Pics of new connections (homemade): ^^ connects factory wiring with power to amp and my homemade extension ^^ Positive and Negative terminals: Whole look from afar:

Great read... Best part was the advert for capacitors on ebay. Lmfao

Yea, the first time I test fit the wiring it seemed fine but when I did all the soldering and left the car unhooked(3-4hours) it seemed like it was rough idling for way too long. Possibly had to do with how long it was unpowered for. So back to the cap, think it is a good idea to remove it? Am I not in need of it anymore? Just wondering, I believe my older setup was pulling a 2 ohm load and that is why it was helpful. Since I'm gonna go for a SSA Dcon I figured at 4 ohm the cap won't be necessary? True or Not True?

Yea, I had to drive it. I left it 30 min undriven in the driveway and it was still kinda rough. Drove around doing errands and it took care of itself. I notice the car is actually smoother when idling than the previous battery which was a Redtop. Now, moving on.. I have a RF 1 Farad cap in the back that I've had since I installed the system into my car. Question is, with the new Kinetik HC1800, is it necessary to have it anymore? am I putting more strain onto the alternator? I have read so many bad things lately about the caps that I'm tempted to remove it from my setup.

Ok. Some new news.... I got the HC1800 in my car now. It's rough again but I am less weary of thiscuz ofall your posts. The car was unhooked for a good 3-4 hours. I'm gonna take some pics after I get it all figured out. Then I will start off on the Big 3 wire management.

thanks guys.. you are really making me feel alot better.. getting wires ready for my day off so I can get this all done

wish I saw that before I left work. The "Shack" is right around the corner from my job. Will pick one up tomorrow since I might be able to do the battery install if I get my wires and solder gear to extend the stock wiring.

also, the DMM. Where is the easiest place to pick one up? Lowes or Home Depot?

how accurate is this post? I didn't see anyone refer to this one. I can understand what he is saying towards the end about the blown fuse issue, but I don't think I'd be riding around without extra fuses anyway, especially when running a separate system or extra electrical equipment... I'd rather be safe than sorry... But is Ohio generator correct on that statement ?

What would be the best way to ensure clean fuel system? Some kind of cleaner I can run through the car? ALL automotive computers reset when de-energized. The vehicle is OBDII. It will only take about 30 minutes worth of driving for the computer to re-"learn" it's settings. That in itself is a farce as the computer doesn't learn. It is constantly making changes and adapting, but when the battery is erased, it reverts back to preset parameters, hence the reason for sometimes erratic idle, etc. . . . The only thing you did different was change a battery and induce a more resistive path. It has nothing to do with the fuel system, although changing the filter never hurts. Thank you for the clarification on that one... Apparently 2002 and up on my specific vehicle the filter is located in the tank and not recommended for replacement by Toyota. Looked into when it was mentioned earlier.

Ok, sounds like a good idea... Just had to hear that... Any of you guys had experience with Kinetik?

Well, it ran roughly more so with the NEW Kinetik battery than it did with the original Optima I had first. I didn't feel as comfortable with the idle on the NEW Kinetik battery and since I knew my previous Optima battery was good I put it back in. You think the Kinetik needs to charge? If so, wouldn't installing it and letting it run for a bit take care of that? Just in case I get the same experience when I go to re-install it.

nice find man... I'll keep that in mind when I eventually get my wires and re-install the Kinetik, seems like this is what had happened to me, and I thought it was switching back to the old battery "fixed" the idle issue. Thanks again man. I'll post back I guess when I do my BIG 3 and get that new battery inside my car. Someone had also suggested changing my spark plugs being that is has been about 45k or so since I had last done so...