Shogen

Thank you guys for jumping in here... I know I am not an expert on this subject but I gave the info that I was somewhat sure on... As far as brand concerns I don't know different than Kinetik and its limited since I only just purchased one within about a month or 2 ago... All I see is XS power here but that doesn't mean it is necessarily better, but it could be right about it offering more for the money? I cannot judge that seeing as how I got my HC1800 for close to $150 below their suggested retail and basically cheaper than what A M A Z O N sells it for. My reasoning for buying it from the vendor I did was the possibility of returning the item if it did not work for me. One thing I can say is Kinetik offered to send me new battery posts because the items I received had definitely been beaten during shipping and the box had a hole and the hardware that came with it wasn't inside it. So I know they are decent on the cs side of things...

XS power are fine as well. There are many brands but I cannot speak to what I've not used. I know they are high on the charts though. Just wish they didn't have soooooo many models with similar specs. Makes it harder to really just choose, at least for me. @ Julian.... can you recommend a comparable XS POWER battery to the HC1400?

I'd def get rid of the stock battery for a Kinetik any day. Now going with a 1400 and 600 isn't bad id say go for 2 of the same battery. So 2x HC1400 would be best. Apparently it is better for the car to have to charge one size. The electrical isn't smart enough to know which battery to charge fully or which is the "main" battery. There are ways to ensure both batteries get full charges but I think it requires some extra hardware and willingness to up keep the system. I could be somewhat wrong here but let's see if anyone else jumps in.

As far as I know the batteries will def help. Adding more batteries, having multiples will cause more strain on the electrical. I faced a similar dilemma and ended up with a HC1800 under the hood and nothing else besides eventually BIG 3. I say go as big as will fit under the hood for now. And def when you go to the BTL get a HO alternator.

I wish. No materials or tools renders that impossible.

Well. This is the box:

Yea so I have it sitting in my closet and I know it works... I just need the opinions and seems like getting a box for the L7 might be a good idea....

lol... sorry but what are you listening to? Is someone beatboxing???

oddly this box on woofersetc is exact spec for the street bass that Kicker suggests...

Okay guys.... Your assistance is needed once again... I had my equipment installed by a buddy and since I had planned at the time to run my Kenwood amp at 1 ohm with a 15" Kicker L7 my buddy dropped in a RF 1 farad capacitor while we hooked this all up... I already know this negatives here and so I would like to remove this while I do my amplifier swap hopefullly this weekend.... Here is the big $100k question: How do I discharge the capacitor? I will disconnect the power from the battery and then remove the capacitor fully as I understand it... But I don't want this light bomb sitting in my apartment with energy being stored... only found this link .... Should I just do this with say a household light bulb? I have some 60watt bulbs sitting around the crib maybe a 100watt somewhere... Quick reply means I will hug you... Do you guys take payments in hugs? lol

http://kicker.com/sites/default/files/SoloBaricL72004TechManual.pdf Page 6 - Sealed Enclosure Page 10 - Ported Enclosure

Teehe.... You can't not plan to go louder if you really enjoy your car audio... Right? Well, I am also running an amp for interiors but yea, there is a chance that I will be going louder later... the alternator is in the back of my mind...... But I'm glad you said that... I will be doing the BIG 3 before I go into the HO alternator. So if I do the L7 which seems like most people are telling me to do... Should I go sealed or ported? I already know that ported allows better output or at least increases output somewhat... Taken from the Kicker support manuals, the SQ setup for this driver is sealed in about 6 cubes and a decent(street bass) setup is a ported enclosure at 4.5 cubes... Apparently the Kicker output it louder at the 40-50 frequency range .... In the sealed seems to be louder at 50-80 frequency range....

I really wish I could trust that site, I think that in itself makes the advert worse... When I first stumbled on woofersetc I thought it was amazing but then you see how they sell all the "high end" popular brands at lower cost and then they take what seems like a small "cares about quality" company and sell their product at higher brackets that are available everywhere else... But the advert is just trying to sell, I just think the site might be somewhere most people might try to avoid...

Nice... Been grabbing a lot of dubstep since a friend introduced it to me about 7 months ago..

This is pretty intense... guy wants to sell a JL Audio sub but advertises it as Nike Air Force... http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mob/1954489667.html

So back on topic... I say if anything you should just go for the SAZ-1500D v.2 .... If I come into some monies before Christmas I think I am going to splurge on 2 SSA 12' Dcons and SAZ-1500D .... I have a hard time saying "no" to my old lady's wants but now that she will be in England for about 2 weeks I figured I might buy some things before she comes back and sees the packages.... lol

Yea that sounds about right, I have a similar radio... BT610U .... Should be what your issue is....

Where can this be bought?

Just share it with your next random text customer. Or should I say sext???

I must say what everyone HAS to be thinking on here... Will you hook up my stereo and have my babies? This install is a dream that I wish I could make come true inside my Toyota Camry... Although handy, not time and no tools means that I just order a box and deaden the trunk... call it a day....

Well all amps have heatsinks... This is an explanation of it... The purpose of changing a heatsink in the manner that they did was to create more surface area... This basically exposes more of the amp "heatsink" to the air to allow it to cool better....

If I looked at everything correctly then they are the same amplifiers.. Just newer revisions with better heatsinks just to increase cooling capacity which in turn helps with efficiency.... Understand?

My issue is that my setup could be technically simpler if I go for the JL amp but if I save a few and get the Soundstream Ref amp then I can make a more elaborate front stage... Since it can handle a 2 ohm load and it would actually increase output.... I will be mixing and matching midbass woofers and tweeters... just have to find out which amp is the more trusted and true plus I want all the opinions I can get on it.... If you guys mostly pick the JL then my life, setup and install are gonna be easier.. On top of that my wallet won't go so thin...lol

or go here???? http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp

nice nice nice....