Shogen

nice nice nice.... holy moly!

I guess most of the guys here are "ghey"... Didn't even wanna see the hapiness??? Something is WRONG here.... lol

welcome sir!

welcome sir!

Nicely done man.... I wonder, did you sand down the spots on the chassis that you connected the wires to? Also, how old is that starter battery???lolz... Shyt looks ancient!

sooooo dead sexci...

Well my whole reason for asking is that I might add a second battery which would actually be installed between the front battery and the amps.. So I figured since I read that information off the manufacturer's site then I could easily run another 0awg wire to the negative posts of both batteries and then ground the amps DIRECTLY to the second battery..

Nice to hear j-road

Bangin', resolved or no? Also how is the alt running? Did you have any issues beyond the previous posts during installation? Belt issue, casing attachment? Anything?

OP, did you ever receive your new alternator? How did it work out for you?

My batteries are grounded to the frame. Too bad it's CCA. No thank you. lol.. Duran, am I supposed to understand your coded answer? I noticed in every install and build log and video that the norm is to ground to the chassis. I am only curious as to whether this statement holds true and if I have the capability of wiring in such a manner as to hook both "+" and "-" from both batteries, should I do that instead? I do like your answer though... That is how it is setup right now, but I might add another battery in the near future.

Totally agree and my only reference was to creating this chart, not anything else.. But yes many factors come into play with each piece of equipment used and I understand that. I have no intention of using this data to make any decisions on anything btw. Again I only mentioned/requested the chart for mere fun and enjoyment since I was curious and it was previously brought up.

Simple math to some is not the same to others... I wouldn't even attempt to muck up the numbers because I possibly misunderstood a particular measurement or parameter used in the formula. I just thought since it was brought up already and then pointed out as "incorrectly done" that it would be cool/nice and a nice fact to know these numbers of the drivers we so widely support.. It also seemed fairly easy for stef since he had already posted a similar chart... So really it was for shits and giggles that I had asked for this to be done and it could have been left alone/unanswered without any malicious feelings towards any community members.. Again, I was just curious and thought it would be nice if someone who already had a much better understanding than I about these numbers to post them up as a "FUN FACTOID" for the wannabe geeks like myself... lol Thanks Stef for posting those charts so willingly.. Also thank you Impious for pointing out that it has no "total" bearing on performance or output of the drivers... I hope that people who look at the charts take it for what it is, more information and specifications about the already awesome drivers known to SSA...

I use wave lossless format with my portable HDD on my Pioneer 610BT ... I find that obviously in the car you can't always make out the difference in all formats but why not put the best that your HU can actually read/reproduce.

Maybe it is asking too much but: 1. Can you guys make this chart specific to SSA line-up? 2. Do it for the Sundown SA series as well? I'd attempt it myself but my math would be wrong... 1+1 = 11, yes?

yea check your volts at the amp... doubt it would sit at the same volts under your hood... def should have gotten 0 gauge for the second battery to the amplifier. At least that is what seems to be the best idea.

Kinda what Julian is saying... You can't really rely on that light 100%... You can check voltages of the amp(s) and impedance to see if its beyond what it should be... Also what raol said... I think you should update your sig as well OP..... You're speaking of an AQ2200 and have an Autotek in your sig....

Just wanna bring this up again in the more appropriate thread.. I posted this directly from the Kinetik Audio website: "..... If adding more than one Kinetik HC Power Cell, continue to connect each power cell together in parallel (positive to positive and negative to negative) until all power cells are connected. Wire your equipment as suggested by the manufacturer either directly to the Kinetik HC Power Cell(s) near your equipment or to your distribution blocks, etc... Refer to your users manual for wiring gauge size and length suggestions...." If this is true, then I can for go the battery negative ground to chassis correct? I would then also assume that the amplifiers could then be DIRECTLY connected to the battery in the rear of my vehicle. Let me know if this is wrong....

Explain SPL tiles???

just put the links directly in the post like test... the website creator made it that easy.. Markie Mark I guess...

oh ok... thanks for clearing that up... was worried for you covering the entire roof with 6" x 10" tiles like that...lolz

Bangin.... Are those all CLD tiles??? Are they different sizes or what?

you didn't attach the photo properly... try putting the photo to like: photobucket, imageshack, picasa .. or similar and then insert the linkage here... okay?

hmm... nice charts.. so more cone area will somewhat relate to more air movement/ louder sound??? I'm just asking..