///M5

Phase is a type of delay. If you google a sine wave you'll see that it has a phase from 0-360. Where you choose to start the wave in time alters its phase in comparison to the other signals in the car. It is added so that you can play around with different phase to minimize cancellation and improve the blending. In reality the knob is labeled incorrectly as it is more of a small time alignment adjustment than truly phase since it is centered at a frequency. You can hurt nothing by playing with this and may improve the frequency response. Only your ears can tell And yes, bass boost is a terrible thing. I seriously hate car audio marketing departments.

Hmm, thought that was coffee although not sure why since I am ze drinker :sean:

Indeed :jimj:

You drove a Jetta?

Shit, really? I was going to.

I can cut you a mixed tape... or whatever the fuck the digital version is called.Maybe I can find some tunes that are more tolerable. Zou canz brin meez a memoreeschtika?

And more seriously, pretty sure it's oak. Fake nail head thingee's in it too as they can't be real in 1974.

Wood

Damn, why can't I like my own post?

Ought to change the boat a bit, eh? Might need to acquire music I don't own, nor will listen to, but obviously not for me. Wave vids. ROFL

If I weren't showing my house tomorrow it'd be in the basement being destroyed at 10Hz while I sleep

I think I can sit on it and it'll hold me up.

HOLY FUCKING suspension BATMAN.

And yes, I am going to break it in.

On the other hand, what is this?

I could say the same but for different reasons

And he cut a bunch of metal. I had a 96 and decided that anything larger than a 6.5" was either going to require a serious amount of cutting or would impeded with precious foot room. Of course it may not be as precious to you since most M3 drivers don't wear a size 15. Ultra hardcore waste to run that Scanspeak with a horn as well. I'd also rather see the driver side...

Do beware the source voltage input/output limitations. If you are running cheap amps *coughs* a line driver may be beneficial to keep thermal noise from being a concern. I haven't actually tested the polks for thermal yet, but will when I finally do the towers.

You mean 2 $95 ones That's what I have in the boat. One 4chn adv plug in one 2.1 adv. Sub and in boats on the 2.1 and the 4 chn for the active towers.

Wish they made a 7 channel. Would make sense for 3 way active + and also for home audio although in the latter case only for eq, time delay and some crossover.

Now hopefully the OP can figure out what in his install was causing it.

Phase can help with blending. I realize there is a SSF but I asked if it was adjustable or just on/off And 80Hz crossover will only be down 3dB at 80Hz so it won't be so audible. If you truly want to "know" where you set it you'll need to measure the voltage drop with a dmm. Of course knowing exactly where it is is pointless since you should set it by ear to blend and not by number.

Frequency response is determined by install. EQ fixes the BS.

As far as I can tell there are 6+6 bands per channel, correct ? With a graphic I'd have about 20 bands in the mid passband, which is where it will be used. But they will be 1/3 octave apart, while with the parametric I can address things better frequency-wise... 6 + 6 is right for BOTH L & R. The second 6 can be custom biquads though so they are uber flexible. 12 non-restricted parametrics are better than 40 fixed graphics. I used one as a shelf filter in my installation to fix the stupid passive.

I'd start by pulling off the kick cover and seeing what you are willing to do. You either get to cut up your kicks or the metal. In reality a bit of both works best. As for getting an 8 down there, that is a bit of a pipe dream although of course if you are aggressive enough it could be possible. In general that car is awful for speaker location. The trunk swallows bass, the kicks are teeny and making a real tweeter fit cosmetically isn't trivial either. With money anything is possible.