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Everything posted by ///M5
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to keep oem head unit or not?
///M5 replied to Meducky's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Are you sure the factory processing is even in the headunit? A lot of German cars put the processing in the amp and the h/u has a flat output. If this is the case it is every bit as good as an aftermarket deck all on its own. This isn't 1995. -
The law of diminishing returns happens. That being said buying from a reputable source so you get what you are expecting is key. The hearing test is tough, but it is possible to measure. Requires techniques to look at surface velocity with a calibrated input to calculate transfer functions, but ALL the oem's do this daily.
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I'm never working out again
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Figure it'll give me a season to make sure it's what I want long term. If so, next summer I'll powder coat the skid and build the motor. Probably grab some new hood as well or trade-off my plastics.
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No longer rebuilding the IQR. Have some more details on the condition. New piston on one side, but it was all done right it sounds. More time to get the rest of it setup then.
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Supposed to snow before I take the boat out damnit! Coming out Thursday when I get home.
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I don't need extra length here. Only reason you do that where I live is to bridge bumps. The IQR does that for me already. Come visit sometime and we can go boondocking! I will show ya what the longtrack is really for. Ask J about my hospitality, you will be well taken care of. I'd bolt an extension and an ATAAC and bring the beast.....or just rent a 163 RMK
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If the foil is too thick it'll fail. Anthole didn't believe it, but then made his stupid tiles and guess what? They fail. Not saying the MM is at all like that as I haven't even looked at the specs, but extra thickness is not a guarantee of being proportional to deadening capability.
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But then it doesn't have to work or have a function that is useful. DD-1 exemplifies this. Pretty easy to take money from nooblets if you have that "clout" or "branding". Of course in the case of something non-useful it's theft from your customers IMO.
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Start over. What do you have and what are you lacking?
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Make it sound better. I will be using cresendo tweeters with cresendo crossovers Then you are looking at the wrong gear. That setup will sound like utter shit.
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Since we parallel posted I'll just clarify this one step further. By "admitting" what you mean is they actually came on this website and implied that would be a terrible use for it and that no one should use it for that purpose. Of course they also couldn't step up to the challenge to point out any valid uses for it either.
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Absolutely not. If you are referring to the DD-1, you don't get it. There is no correct purpose or value in it. If you are so sure of it, explain what this is. The DD-1 cannot tell you if your power is clean. Your reasoning for needing it is also dubious. Nor is the reference point on your h/u helpful. 0dB, -3dB -- neither are appropriate which of course you explain yourself afterwards and neither will help consistency. If you were referring to an Oscope in general my comments also hold true as most don't have enough resolution in the display or analysis power to show the harmonics. If you are referring a $50k storage scope, then by all means it can show you what you might be interested but then you have to question the method and why it's being used and you'll rarely see a use for it in gain setting anyways.
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I wouldn't expect them to work well for you.
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BL for sure
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best amp for the money to power a single 12" SSA Dcon single 4ohm?
///M5 replied to oakteg21's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
there isn't one -
There is a huge difference in running a full range driver full range and only using part of the range. Where you read the need for a notch was to address breakup...so to avoid it don't pick a driver that has breakup in the range you will be playing it. 400-3500Hz?? Really? I assume you are attempting a 3 way, but if you've never run active I'd highly encourage against that in the first round. 2 way is your friend.
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Scary call Matt. At the same time, there are many things that could be worse. It'll change the diligence in your eating habits, but that alone is not so bad. I also imagine it's a fluke/over reaction. Pretty normal for an overly exuberant diagnostic to happen regarding livebetes
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I haz no welder. More concerned about what I can do tricky to make the light look cosmetic and what light it would be. Bolt on is nearly necessary. I only suggest weld because I can see bolt on wiggling loose. Stefan had the right idea, but I was thinking on the top of the bar. Either one solid bar, or two smaller squares on the ends. J Buy a MIG. They are cheap enough and easy to learn to weld with. You will be amazed at the shit you can do with one. I welded gussets on my quad's frame since I know they are prone to cracking. If I save my frame then the purchase price of the welder is worth it. Of course, I didn't have to buy one since I just used the shop's welder, but you know what I mean. Honestly, while diabetes sucks, at least it is something you can control and live a long life with. I have to be honest, my wife worked in a neurology practice for a few years and the symptoms you described had me concerned about ALS (Lou Gherig's Disease) or MS. Remember when I said that you need to focus on positives? There is one for you. Best of luck in treatment and control, bud. I somewhat lied. I've got an acet. torch. My bil is a professional welder, but 1.5hrs away. For what I need to do to the sled I don't feel like crating it up there. Next summer I am going ot have him weld me up a complete customer cooler under the tunnel which will free up the gas cans to move forward.
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I don't need extra length here. Only reason you do that where I live is to bridge bumps. The IQR does that for me already.
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I haz no welder. More concerned about what I can do tricky to make the light look cosmetic and what light it would be. Bolt on is nearly necessary. I only suggest weld because I can see bolt on wiggling loose. Stefan had the right idea, but I was thinking on the top of the bar. Either one solid bar, or two smaller squares on the ends. J The stock one is bolted on.
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Argyle will stay this year, but perhaps not for next. Looking for another hood as selling mine would be better than altering it back.
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Atlanta has free wifi still don't they?
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I haz no welder. More concerned about what I can do tricky to make the light look cosmetic and what light it would be. Bolt on is nearly necessary.