///M5

Zcons!

Decoupling is great, the only trick is to maintain the seal Active capable headunit's all have limitations as well. For instance, good luck using only the crossovers on a Pio 880/800 for running a 2 way with a FR driver. The cross points aren't flexible enough. There are some that even have limitations that can make tweeter integration tough. There is a reason I asked for the model you have, but knowing the cross points and slopes would even be better.

OP posts pointless video with lots of misinformation. We try to explain why, he doesn't read it and posts another video that is as flawed. I agree on the effort, definitely keep LEARNING; however, I'd learn some more before doing more tests. I gave you a monster hint. NO measurements are considered valid without stating their uncertainty. And NO measurement equipment that is sold is worth buying if that isn't a spec you can find on the product. There is a reason that NIST, PTB, JIST require this and it isn't to be political and waste money. Quite the opposite. Oh, and throw the AMD thingee away, it is going to cause you more harm in confusion than good.

Where the tracks run maybe? Yep the aluminum portion encompassing the track. Figured it was aluminum, covered with stickers, and being a race sled with 6 years of use that it could look better than it did. And for Uwhores: And yeah, shitty pic from my phone right before I quit for the night but you get the idea. Could really use a few more bouts with the buffer and polish, but I'm sore as hell already. I am also sure I did it the hard way. Tried to sand with 400,800,1500,2000 but with all the shapes that gets hard even with a flexi-block. Once I get the rest of the mods done I'm working on I'll probably hit it by hand really good one more time and call her a day. *edit: replaced pic with a better one

IQR has a shiny tunnel now....and I'm fucking tired. I should have sanded more as it was scratched pretty bad everywhere as you'd expect from a 6 year old race sled, but no hidden dings or other messes popped up.

Maybe it's just me, but I don't see the point. You could just have a 3mm jack connection on dash with a rocker switch for remote turn on going to some minidsps! I would definitely consider a mini dsp if I didn't already have the C701/H701 combo. I realize that an all digital signal isn't "necessary" for a vehicle environment, but the H701 accepts it so I figured might as well get the best you can. I don't want to use 3.5mm jack, ideally, because I don't want to use the DACs on my devices. What would be really cool is a devices that would let me connect via bluetooth, and some kind of direct line that could output to my H701. I would be willing to give up quality if it meant less wires. digital/3.5 you won't hear the difference. Not even close. Only bummer is the "extra" volume control Even when comparing the phones DACs and having a direct line out? At what point would a line driver be in order? Started messing around the truck to see what they tore up. A few twisting of wires and I had the C701 back on. Threw on my RCA to 3.5mm and had music from my phone. Definitely good enough to hold me over for now. I'm using one, but I have cheap amps and no headunit or gain in the proc.

Windshield on a snocross sled, lol. You don't want things that break when you bail

Maybe it's just me, but I don't see the point. You could just have a 3mm jack connection on dash with a rocker switch for remote turn on going to some minidsps! I would definitely consider a mini dsp if I didn't already have the C701/H701 combo. I realize that an all digital signal isn't "necessary" for a vehicle environment, but the H701 accepts it so I figured might as well get the best you can. I don't want to use 3.5mm jack, ideally, because I don't want to use the DACs on my devices. What would be really cool is a devices that would let me connect via bluetooth, and some kind of direct line that could output to my H701. I would be willing to give up quality if it meant less wires. digital/3.5 you won't hear the difference. Not even close. Only bummer is the "extra" volume control

umm, no

Then buy something random as used. If you aren't willing to try and search then it's a crap shoot anyways. I like how you ignored my other comment which of course would easily resolve your 123.

Can't recommend anything without knowing what you have for processing. As I stated above that could EASILY make some setups impossible. Sorry, I forgot to address the 5L question. It isn't enough for a 4" er, more or less something bigger. IB is going to be what you'll need to do.

And yes the wood blocks are my temporary suspension, lol. No springs or shocks atm.

Temp phone pic part way through the install. Had to stop as I need a brake line extension and throttle cable. The white zip ties are temporary as I'll obviously buy some black ones. Ape hangin'!

It's amazing how a little adjustment on the dirt bike can make a HUGE difference. Moving bars up or down, forward or back an inch. Raising or lowering forks a few mm in the triple clamps. Moving rear wheel. I can make these slight changes, and substantially add or cut to lap times. I'm now 8" above stock, lol Holy shit. Guess it's OG designed for 5' 5" people? Not quite, but with a 37" inseam my arms are at least 6" higher than someone with a 30"...

While I agree we need to hear the OP's goals. Realizing how far off axis he is, it's time to shop for tweeters. Nothing else can really be decided until that occurs. If he isn't willing to modify the vehicle to not look stock a FR & Midbass option will not work for him. Pretty much bet for processing it couldn't be handled either with what he has. Start digging for tweeters and let us know what you are leaning towards or choosing between. If the location is the same either way and it fits it makes a TON of sense. Not many small format drivers worth a shit, tons of choices when you remove that constraint. Not going to help the OP who wants a "stock" appearance. Recommending to use a full ranger off axis is a mess. As for your overlap "requirement" I've seen MANY cases where the opposite is true. Your desires also complete defeat the purpose of using a full ranger. If you can't get it to play most of the audio spectrum then you are better off with a tweeter in a two way.

Blanket statements are ALWAYS wrong. And yours is even uglier. Compare engineering teams and the companies goals and if you truly still believe in what you said there you should seriously rethink it. The world is much more complex than you are giving it credit for.

It's amazing how a little adjustment on the dirt bike can make a HUGE difference. Moving bars up or down, forward or back an inch. Raising or lowering forks a few mm in the triple clamps. Moving rear wheel. I can make these slight changes, and substantially add or cut to lap times. I'm now 8" above stock, lol

Risers on the beast :)i. Could use another 2" though but then i'd lose the adjustability

Sounds like fun. When do we meet up? We'll let Sean bring the booze, and I'll bring the mixer... of course I will just show up with a bag of ice so he doesn't fuck up his bourbon again You're taller then me, but not by that much. You have me by a few inches in height, but I have you by a few inches in... Dont slap him with that, you don't know where he has been! They guy is dubious. LOL I think you highly over estimate my concept of a splash

We've got st least another month of sandals up here

You're taller then me, but not by that much. You have me by a few inches in height, but I have you by a few inches in... girth, I'm sure. At 6'7" and 215lbs I'm HUGEIn Japan

You'd have to jump

Depends on where u mount the tweet and what you have for processing

So the only valid piece of info you have on any of the three sets is that one of them has drivers made by scan speak and you are not choosing that one? Now I'm confused

Not that lucky, just the select. Mine got a splash of club soda and a rock. That's gonna piss him off. key word was splash, probably less water content than melted rocks and definitely warmer