///M5

It isn't funny that I picked the ER. It is a super forgiving driver that excels in a 2 way. Great bottom end with some nice midrange as well. And yes, cone material is exactly what typically causes the resonance modes. Fancy cones have audible breakup usually in the lower tweeter range. Obviously if they are high enough up it can be okay, but if the mode has 10dB of gain and your crossover only has it down 6dB you have 4dB of gain where you were expecting a roll off. A notch filter can pull it out completely, but those aren't usually available in a headunit and making one from analog components while not hard is probably beyond the scope of what you want to do. Don't take this the wrong way, but buying that Scan set would be absolutely STUPID if you were running active. A good portion of its cost is in the crossovers and you wouldn't be using them. I also haven't had the best luck with ~7" Scans run in a car door. The Seas do a better job. If it were a 4" mid, then kiss that statement goodbye, but the OP needs a 7 not a mid. That comp set you linked highlights something though that ALL car audio comps suck at....having good crossovers. In general you should figure nearly the same money for drivers and crossover components. So yeah, complete waste to buy a comp set and run it active, but at the same time most car audio sets have a crossover I could build for less than $30 and regularly way less. Now perhaps you know why they all pretty much suck. This doesn't even take into account the compromises they make to make the drivers cheaper in quantity either. Not a single set on the market right now that I like for the money.

The fact that you don't act like you are from here.

Blood alcohol level and tolerance are not related. You may live near Spirit Lake, but you can't be a MN/IA native... why do you say i can't be a native? born and raised in Fairmont MN, but lived down south by El Paso for about 6yrs You don't act like a MN'tan at all. i'm actually very quiet and well mannered in person. it's pretty surprising really how much different i am in person. Why do you feel the need to have multiple personas? Either way, not what stemmed my comment.

He also has a space suit. I have a pass to get onto NASA facilities, but no space suit.

Que?

Somewhere around 39000 ft

I'm rather high right now in fact.

and then i get high, and then i get high

Blood alcohol level and tolerance are not related. You may live near Spirit Lake, but you can't be a MN/IA native... why do you say i can't be a native? born and raised in Fairmont MN, but lived down south by El Paso for about 6yrs You don't act like a MN'tan at all.

Mounting locations first and then assemble the options you have for both drivers. Considering you don't have a ton of experience running active for the midrange I'd suggest something without nasty breakup modes. Something with a smooth response will help. As an example of a mid that'll blend with about any tweeter and still has rompin' midbass for it's size the Seas ER18 is a great example. Check out it's FR and such and compare with what else you are looking at.

Blood alcohol level and tolerance are not related. You may live near Spirit Lake, but you can't be a MN/IA native...

love the sled, great brand! thanks for the support! I do a ton of work with Polaris and actually even get my parts direct from Engineering Even if I didn't though they are far superior to everything out there. Cat's break like hell and drive like shit (perhaps the new chassis is better, but I'm no guinea pig), Ski Doo are uncomfortable like hell and are found dead at every corner in the trail, I am not 70 so a Yamaha is a joke, which leaves the bulletproof, easy to work on, amazing parts availability Poo. That and getting darn near 150 hp out of a smallblock no other manufacturer can muster. The only non-Poo engine worth a shit is the AC 800, but I personally prefer the agility of the smaller engines.

You don't care about loud but you want to move air??? Oh, it was impressive.Maybe it's just me but I found that I listened to the same tracks on OCD repeat. Stock stereo in Civic right now, and find that I've been able to actually enjoy the music, rather that the result of it, if that makes sense. Huh? You are changing subs because you only listened to a couple songs? If so, easy cure. Turn down the bass.

You don't care about loud but you want to move air??? Oh, it was impressive.Maybe it's just me but I found that I listened to the same tracks on OCD repeat. Stock stereo in Civic right now, and find that I've been able to actually enjoy the music, rather that the result of it, if that makes sense. Huh? You are changing subs because you only listened to a couple songs? If so, easy cure. Turn down the bass.

Again, it'll depend on a lot of factors. The drivers FR, the mounting location and axis, and of course what frequencies you can choose and their slopes. In a perfect world when the drivers are nearly coincident underlapping is better, but sometimes in a car the compromises you made in the install require an overlap situation. Anyone who thinks it's a one size fits all scenario is wrong. Your "negative" towards SQ is true IF the sum of the frequency response from both drivers in the cross band is above the nominal line. If they blend with an overlap then it's a positive. I seriously doubt those 25mm are on axis...could be, but that isn't so normal. And if so, you may not want to go that route. Depends on the car and their location. I'd pull them apart and see what you can fit up there before deciding.

This is exactly why I keep trying to state, you MUST consider the environment when selecting the TV type. Yep, knew that when I bought the plasma, but the price was ridiculous so I had to. Wanted to wait for a thin bezel screen for the living room. It was only a 9 mo solution and really only a couple weeks were bad. When we have trees, no problem. This time of year though, it sucks for football in the living room if you don't have a screen that is setup for it.

I meant up higher with the small, ie in the sails or something. You alluded to that earlier. Please don't type in black, most of the mods and regulars use a black background making us have to highlight to read. Steep slopes are the most effective at protecting the drivers. Steep or shallow can blend better depending on the install and driver separation. In transition areas you'll have to experiment. When I can get it to work I generally prefer shallower slopes, but that is a when. Be careful as you experiment because if you test your drivers and when they start to get nasty with a steep slope they'll do it earlier with a shallow. Different slopes will require different cross points as well. Mixing slopes can also be beneficial sometimes. If you end up mounting everything in the doors, it'll be a bit of a crapshoot depending on the off axis response of the drivers in the frequency range. Generically the goal is to pick cross points that are safe and allow you to manipulate the slopes such that the drivers sum nice and flat in the transition region.

Didn't click on the link, but in reality wire is wire. 999 out of 1000 times it is an installation that causes what you had happen...

Plasma in the bedroom, LED in the living room. Plasma could not handle the glare in my living room, but it's ALL windows and I needed a matte screen. Bought the plasma originally for the living room, but shucks it had to move to the bedroom.

You said large format in the door, how about small format?

One other benefit of the adjustable. We all like to trade sleds periodically throughout the day. Good luck with the ape hangers if it's setup for me

Awesome. I wouldn't have known the 702 specs off the top of my head. Pretty sweet they don't jack you on the low end for the tweet/mid HP. Allows a pretty reasonable choice for doing things Obviously more than the third octave choices would be nice and more slope choices, but at least you can actually have some flexibility. Electronic phase is nice for setting things up too. Enough flexibility to do what you need in a 2 way. 3 way would be tough as integration with an amp as well will be frustrating. I'd rather decouple the larger mass if I could and there is no huge reason to do both.

Also helps dial things in. How do you know you need a 4" 6" or 8" riser? Guess? Much nicer to ride and change.

Sort of. Down for twisties, up for bumps. Obviously if you go back and forth you have to pick or stop often, but it allows WAY more flexibility and comfort than not having adjustability. I have 3" of adjusters on the Rush and it's sweet!

I updated the pic from a few pages back, but since you guys don't read backwards here is the tunnel polish Was stressing over the EGT gauge mount, but you'll see I got smart. Sled came with an extra set of hand protectors so I took the aluminum mount and grabbed a few things from the hardware store and now the EGT follows the bars when I raise and lower them. Nearly 4" of travel which is enough to adjust from sitting to standing. Requires a 1/2" wrench, but I'll keep one in my map bag on the tank.