///M5

If you are using active crossovers it is absolutely idiotic to buy a passive 3 way set. If you are going to buy a 3 way set it is also absolutely backwards to buy a passive. Assuming this is active, where are the mounting locations, what is the budget, and what does he have for an active processor?

Goodbye, asshat.

Dick that small? It's a fucking forum on the internet. As for not knowing you, you are very simple and easy to read. You may think you are deceiving us in how you type, but the only one you are deceiving is yourself. Darker side, rofl. Eye of the beholder. You are only seeing what you want to see. Just another way to deceive yourself to promote what you think you need for you. One of your character traits. We've seen it over and over and over and over. Pot calling the kettle black is never a very good argument. In particular when it isn't at all the case. Do everyday and try to do it even more. It's called learning. You should try it once. Or the music counts. Or both. Or in the case of the shit you normally post, neither. When you spam follow the fucking HOP etiquette and mark the beginning and end of your nonsense like we all do We'd all love to, but the nonsensical bullshit and shitty music don't make that easy. Why not try to explain why it's chill instead of puking random shit. So why the fuck are you all up tight about it now. Perhaps you need to ChiLL yourself.

Way less torque and HP per cc than my snowmobile, in fact less than 20% more at 2x the displacement and same curb weight. Racing to 80 with an asphalt track I'm pretty sure I'd put the shame on the Duc.

And without a zener it'll surely back feed. I realize somehow I am making this impossible for you to help....but it ISN'T on purpose, lol. Take an AC feed that is regulated to 12v AC. Run it into two things: 1) Rectifier 2) 2 wire LED Tail Light & Brake Light Take output of the Rectifier (through brake handle) and connect it to: 2) 2 wire LED Tail Light & Brake Light Idea is that the LED works as a diode (half bridge rectifier) and runs at 12/2=6v (peak) * .7 (RMS) = 4.2V DC for a Running light When you apply brake lever, it kicks the 12v DC onto the same line as the half bridge rectified AC. Providing another 12v DC to the line making the light brighter as a brake light than a tail light. My concern is that the AC output that is going to the tail light will back feed into the rectifier since it is wired in parallel thus destroying the rectifier. If the output of the rectifier has a zener diode that can reject 12v AC then it is no problem. If it doesn't then I buy a new rectifier. My assumption is that the rectifier is idiot proof since it is on a snowmobile, but not sure that I want to test it with a $40 oops. This solution requires absolutely no re-wiring or adjustments. The other option of course is to use the rectifier output for the taillight and build a voltage divider to make it less power before the brake light is applied. This is way more work than just changing the connection of one wire that happens to already be in the right connector... Is that more clear? Problem is paralleling DC & AC after the rectifier and maybe then damaging it. I see where you are coming from now. Does the LED have a Zener incorporated into it? It would seem to me that it should, if it is intended to function this way It's my understanding that LED's in nature do exactly that. Of course the input will be paralleled before the LED so it still may backfeed into the rectifier. My question is somewhat loaded as I understand the circuit pretty well, but have no idea how to test what I hope is actually there.

You've never posted good music. Always shitty quality and 99 out of 100 times the song isn't even listenable.

Can always order from Intelligentsia

Only other problem is I "can't" start it atm and want to wire everything up. I do have access to a power supply to feed the rectifier though but it would be a pain in my ass as my power supply is a function generator and an amplifier

And without a zener it'll surely back feed. I realize somehow I am making this impossible for you to help....but it ISN'T on purpose, lol. Take an AC feed that is regulated to 12v AC. Run it into two things: 1) Rectifier 2) 2 wire LED Tail Light & Brake Light Take output of the Rectifier (through brake handle) and connect it to: 2) 2 wire LED Tail Light & Brake Light Idea is that the LED works as a diode (half bridge rectifier) and runs at 12/2=6v (peak) * .7 (RMS) = 4.2V DC for a Running light When you apply brake lever, it kicks the 12v DC onto the same line as the half bridge rectified AC. Providing another 12v DC to the line making the light brighter as a brake light than a tail light. My concern is that the AC output that is going to the tail light will back feed into the rectifier since it is wired in parallel thus destroying the rectifier. If the output of the rectifier has a zener diode that can reject 12v AC then it is no problem. If it doesn't then I buy a new rectifier. My assumption is that the rectifier is idiot proof since it is on a snowmobile, but not sure that I want to test it with a $40 oops. This solution requires absolutely no re-wiring or adjustments. The other option of course is to use the rectifier output for the taillight and build a voltage divider to make it less power before the brake light is applied. This is way more work than just changing the connection of one wire that happens to already be in the right connector... Is that more clear? Problem is paralleling DC & AC after the rectifier and maybe then damaging it.

Most likely not necessary for an SQ sub. Nor is much power. The trick is going to not be the sub, but the front stage. There is a reason in the T&C for the site that you signed up to agree to not use the term SQ...

I listen to Sirius XM from my portable device in my work vehicle via aux input. Even thought the level is all the way up, I still have to crank it up. I use a line driver to boost the signal. I just need another one. I always wanted to play around with a trunk mounted EQ so I figured I can hook it up and tweek the sound a bit. Trunk mounted are useless IMO. If you have no anomalies adding an EQ won't help anyways. Should always determine what you want to do and then choose what it is. As for the Line Driver, are your gains maxxed? If not, start there by turning them up. *no, I am not recommending running at max gain, but if there is more gain to be had on your amps you can use it unless it creates other issues The vehicle belongs to the company and is all stock. I listen to XM via a portable device via the aux input. I have to crank up the stereo to enjoy it. The output level on the device is on full. I already installed and use a line drive to increase the signal. It does what it supposed to do. I need another line driver anyway. Using the line driver tends to bring out the flaws. I want to hook up an eq to tweek it a bit. Do you have anything for sale? No amps? Using the line driver between the source and aux input? What tweaking? If you don't know what adding an EQ is a serious waste of money.

Well, sometime this year I'll let you listen to my Dynoport. Braaaap right by your house. In reality, I too would either source something used from someone you trust or stick with something a bit more mainstream. Everything is a compromise in audio once price is involved and then you add the complexity of the car and it gets way worse. Considering your budget isn't what I'd call monstrous buying something some people are happy with is your only choice if you can't go listen to anything. That makes it tough. If active were a solution it'd be easier (assuming you have processing and an amp)

It's AC Regulated before the rectifier. The Zener is ONLY to protect the rectifier. Backfeeding voltage into a rectifier can fry the other diode's thus netting me a $40 expense or $10 and some soldering time and frustration.

AC Generator from the sled to DC Rectifier to brake lever to brake light. Tail light on AC.

I listen to Sirius XM from my portable device in my work vehicle via aux input. Even thought the level is all the way up, I still have to crank it up. I use a line driver to boost the signal. I just need another one. I always wanted to play around with a trunk mounted EQ so I figured I can hook it up and tweek the sound a bit. Trunk mounted are useless IMO. If you have no anomalies adding an EQ won't help anyways. Should always determine what you want to do and then choose what it is. As for the Line Driver, are your gains maxxed? If not, start there by turning them up. *no, I am not recommending running at max gain, but if there is more gain to be had on your amps you can use it unless it creates other issues

Use a scope or a multimeter. If you go to DC on a meter and it displays a constant, likely (12 volt is most likely) voltage you have DC current. With a scope you can just look at the pattern. Sorry, I meant a zener diode protecting current from going back in if I run an AC line in parallel with the DC coming out of the rectifier. And if that is what you were telling me, it went right over my drunk head. So you want to add a diode after a rectifier? Why? Rectifiers are diode chains. They convert AC to DC. I know what the rectifier does. I have 2 12AC lines. I want one <12v DC line and one 12vDC line. (Tail light and brake to an LED) Most cheap rectifiers cannot handle AC on the outputs so if I run the two in parallel I may fry the rectifier. In this case the "cheap" rectifier is $40 so I don't want to cook it. I know I can just build my own for both leads and add a voltage divider and be golden, but if there is a way to make sure the output is zener protected of the rectifier that I have I don't have to do jack. Hell the rewiring is almost plug and play at that point and won't even require the soldering iron. I realize that was confusing. I just am not sure how to test it without having access to the diode bridge on the inside. I work with electricity every day. I will generally be working on drivability stuff for ~8 hours of my 10 hour day. I stare at diagrams all day long. And the sad thing is, I can't read a trouble tree. I generally have a hard time putting words into pictures or actions... which in my professions is likely a good thing. Trouble trees tend to lead people the long way around and they usually wind up with the wrong diagnosis. I think one of the best examples is a Ford DPFE test. They want you to remove the wiring harness from a sensor and the EGR solenoid and the ECM check for continuity on 6 wires. Then check for vacuum going to the solenoid, then remove the EGR valve and check for carbon, if all is well, replace the DPFE. This diag would take about an hour to an hour and a half. I read the "description and operation" section of the system I am testing, pull up wiring diagrams, and go my own route. After doing so, I figured that I could easily test everything in the system by simply starting the vehicle, and grounding the EGR solenoid. If the car stumbles and/or almost stalls I have tested and proven the entire system works. All my wires are in tact, there is vacuum to the EGR solenoid and valve when it is opened, and the passages are open (if they were plugged the valve would open but the car would not stumble/stall). I can have it diagnosed in ~5 minutes I guess instead of babbling I should just say, have you got a diagram of your system? If so, I can tell you if it will work If I had a diagram I'd know if it was Zener protected so I couldn't backfeed into the rectifier. Considering I don't I am not sure how to test for one as without the diagram or insight into the rectifier itself I am clueless as to what is in it. My guess is that it is uber simple: However to make it robust it should be protected on the output via a Zener in addition. Considering the rednecks that normally ride and modify snowmobiles my guess is that it is there, but I don't know how to confirm.

Tried to grab spinning sheet metal? SRSLY? Yes people react and things like that happen. Yep. Guy was drilling holes using a regular drill bit without using powerfeed, caught, pulled up, and he instinctively went to catch it since 'hey, it was moving, it is not supposed to do that'. Wham, wham, wham, three large chunks of skin off three fingers. To those who don't know this yet. GO BUY A STEP DRILL FOR DOING THIN SHEET WORK. Yes, they are expensive, but yes, they are awesome. Step drill? One of these. http://www.amazon.co...52950189&sr=8-8 Rofl, I thought you meant a type of drill and not drill bit. Was dumbfounded since I hadn't heard of one. Also didn't realize that is what you call those, but I have one

Well piss. Any suggestions for my general goal? If my sister doesn't like it then I'll have to deal with her... and thats not desireable... Yep. I suggest you go listen to some. There will be no uniform suggestion. Obviously Quentin and I don't feel the same so that ought to tell you something right there.

Get a new car?

What sort of capability do you need in the EQ? What is it being used to solve? How much gain do you need in a line driver? Thermal noise atm?

IMO those Focal's are puketastic. Absolutely do not mix with my ears....but you asked a subjective question.

Tried to grab spinning sheet metal? SRSLY? Yes people react and things like that happen. Yep. Guy was drilling holes using a regular drill bit without using powerfeed, caught, pulled up, and he instinctively went to catch it since 'hey, it was moving, it is not supposed to do that'. Wham, wham, wham, three large chunks of skin off three fingers. To those who don't know this yet. GO BUY A STEP DRILL FOR DOING THIN SHEET WORK. Yes, they are expensive, but yes, they are awesome. Step drill?

I had the opposite problem. Unreal Tournament got me good. Pretty much got bored as there was never anyone to play against that I couldn't destroy. Of course 8+ hours a day for pretty much a year ought to up the skill level. Got off of it and haven't gamedsince.

Use a scope or a multimeter. If you go to DC on a meter and it displays a constant, likely (12 volt is most likely) voltage you have DC current. With a scope you can just look at the pattern. Sorry, I meant a zener diode protecting current from going back in if I run an AC line in parallel with the DC coming out of the rectifier. And if that is what you were telling me, it went right over my drunk head. So you want to add a diode after a rectifier? Why? Rectifiers are diode chains. They convert AC to DC. I know what the rectifier does. I have 2 12AC lines. I want one <12v DC line and one 12vDC line. (Tail light and brake to an LED) Most cheap rectifiers cannot handle AC on the outputs so if I run the two in parallel I may fry the rectifier. In this case the "cheap" rectifier is $40 so I don't want to cook it. I know I can just build my own for both leads and add a voltage divider and be golden, but if there is a way to make sure the output is zener protected of the rectifier that I have I don't have to do jack. Hell the rewiring is almost plug and play at that point and won't even require the soldering iron. I realize that was confusing. I just am not sure how to test it without having access to the diode bridge on the inside.

Use a scope or a multimeter. If you go to DC on a meter and it displays a constant, likely (12 volt is most likely) voltage you have DC current. With a scope you can just look at the pattern. Sorry, I meant a zener diode protecting current from going back in if I run an AC line in parallel with the DC coming out of the rectifier. And if that is what you were telling me, it went right over my drunk head.