///M5

That table is conservative as well. Losses just aren't that big.

If it were a 6l80 and a 6.0 I'd take it. I need a 6l80 BAD.

It isn't reverberation, but you change the Frequency, amplitude and Q of the resonance. That is it. Spray on's suck donkey in comparison as they do not have a constrained layer which is far more effective at making a change. As for the cabin noise question, I am not sure I get what you are asking but it is also simple. There are two sources of noise in the cabin; airborne noise and structure borne noise. Any form of barrier that adds MASS will help with the airborne noise, but unless it changes the Freq, amplitude &/or Q of the resonances it won't do anything for structural noise. The likelihood of you truly getting the resonance of your panel out of a range where your car excites those resonance modes is near nil which means you need to focus on reducing the overall response of the resonance such that it doesn't make as much audible noise. I've moved small panels in the kilohertz range 100fm (femtometers) and it is VERY audible. Of course the panel chosen was from a metal that made a good "speaker" but do realize that your car doors were not chosen for their acoustic properties first and foremost, but their structural to weight balance. NVH in the era of your truck was a massive "oh shit" engineering exercise, in particular by Chrysler whom is more than a decade back in that regard. Today it is much better as they try to model it all in software first, but FCA does the worst job of validating that what they modeled in software was right and regularly it is horribly wrong. I tried to warn you before to skip the spray on nonsense, but you seem to like to ask questions hoping for an answer and then when you get a different one ignore the help you received.

Sean is regularly not comprehendable

Both my boys scored in their respective games tonight. Proud dad and coach. Kicked some ass again too which doesn't hurt.

I don't need that much power...or anything that big lol. It is a prime target for getting ripped off so something not uber desirable is ideal.

Although perhaps I can blow the gti fast in which case I could use a Gcon.

If you had some compelling reason for the bandpass we overlooked perhaps it is ok, but usually it is a net negative.

It is my boat though which is more about output than quality...but not in a basshead way

ORdered the Alpine for $30 more. I want to play with TuneIt to see if it would work in my car for a future installation. Seems that Alpine will be adding this to nearly all their HU's in the future...or so I'd guess since it is fundamentally a no cost item for them.

Have a sub...but my amp was ripped off. Just going to use my old school 1500gti. Might fail, but then I don't have to figure out how to ship it to someone and I really have no use for it.

Anyone have a smallish 600w-1k sub amp they'd sell?

Thanks. It is that for $99 or the Alpine 62bt for $129. Should probably order one tonight lol.

Anyone tried any of the Alpine h/u's with "TuneIt"? The UTE-62BT is $130 and has it. DSP is controlled by a phone app.

$99 at Sonic. If someone needs an install kit let me know for what car. Don't need one for the boat lol.

Hers doesn't have Network mode. The manual for yours is not uber clear. Can you bandpass the mids? This shows MID HPF and LPF but doesn't say if you can use both:

Thanks

More logical to just build a standard ported box. Still get the 4th order roll off and will work out better.

ER's make better mids though.

I had the L's way before the ER's were available. Could be there. CA's I think are bang for the buck the steal. Almost idiot proof to use as well.

Ah, the L's. Midbass machines, but a bit more aggressive than the CA's.

If that is a panned monophonic setup then it may actually sound good. If not, well then LAUGH.

MK - what was the el cheapo active HU you recommended. Just realized my boat has no tunes. :doh:

Wait, which ones?

Not of you, but said goddess legs