///M5

If you'd stop wearing high heels perhaps the problem wouldn't occur

I'd make a jig/guide. If you can clamp your drill in a vice and slide the board up to it or the like. Goal is to keep it perpendicular and centered. Any drift and things won't mate and will look like crap.

Big improvement!

Best part is it is self defeating on his part. The more he posts, the more this thread is on top. It's almost stickied just based on his absurd comments. He's proven more than once that he understands nothing about audio. After his last comment I am sure he needs a few days to research, think, ask for help before posting again.

Not going for a rip tonight. Have to work instead Although if I'm real productive, tomorrow morning I will.

Not sure I understand the question. For an external port the location won't matter so much.

~40 mi round trip. Only had an hour and a half and had to eat too. Somehow a couple beers got in my gut as well

Lola's in Waconia

The problem with the dual Dayton's and that amp is you are defeating the whole reason of having a horn. Mating two 89dB drivers together yields 92dB and then when they can take (and you have) limited power having a tweeter that is a couple orders of magnitude louder is a strange decision. If you are going to compromise and not buy an amp, I'd compromise on the frequency range of the woofer....or take the horns out altogether and go a different route. I do find it interesting that you reference the Peerless XLS shallow. It'll have the same power requirements as the Extremis but a more limited range and is really expensive at nearly $200 each. There are other subs that will reach higher in the frequency range than it as well and do a better job mating....but again you are short on power. You have to compromise. You just need to decide where. Until then you are hard to help. If you want a serious match it'll take two ported pro audio 8's per side. I know you don't have that much space, that much power, or that budget but that would be the easiest way to fill things out. Everything else is less than that. You pick where. I will add the cheapest midbass you can buy kills your staging. Just set the sub to play up much higher. Getting that load off the "mids" will seriously help reduce your compromise. Noting his listening desires it also seems like a no brainer to me. The question then becomes the gap and the dollars.

Took the sled to lunch. Yeah baby

You have two problems in your sub horn range:1) Not enough cone area, ie midbass range will suffer 2) Not enough power. IMO, the Daytons don't help with either. They aren't particularly good midbasses and not unlike the horns if you want them to play into the midrange you are going to need some serious eq. I was going to do a 2 way with a set and after playing with them sold them off for those exact reasons. Add to that the lack of an enclosure to beef them up and you aren't helping yourself. In that aspect a pro audio driver in a poor mounting scenario may actually be of benefit. No matter what you are going to have compromises. I'd pick what I think those should be first. Then start driver shopping. What I compromised with my solution was money. You may choose differently.

Interesting I've never had one and always had it. Of course being near ND where they don't salt it's a necessity.

No deductible on glass.

Post them and you'll have your answer.

Don't call and ask if it is covered. Read your policy and see if you have glass insurance. If not, call them and add it and some other things making the focus on the other.

I have the same friend

Because perhaps you'd like to make your mind up for yourself. Or I could state that more clearly. We understand your type, you have to make it up yourself otherwise you'll make up something else instead. Don't blame Jacob that they are a bad design either. If someone leads a designer down the wrong path and gives him money to do so, I'd personally fault the "leader" And find the info on the Sundown's. They aren't the same otherwise the specs would be the same. If they were the same I seriously doubt even Kevin could screw up typing them up. Ok, perhaps, but at least they would have been measured right. Taking an "almost" T/S parameter set and designing is about as useful as the trial and error method you are so fond of. An even rudimentary understanding of basic algebra would go a really long ways in getting you some useful information. Stuff I learned in 3-4th grade. It isn't rocket science. I suggest trying once. It might do you well. I didn't think there was anyone that retarded in Trinidad.

No glass insurance?

ass flare is turned on over here. Holy hell. wtf did I eat?

miniDSP IMO would be a great, cheap solution and well worth the portion of the budget it would eat. For $500 you should be able to buy a miniDSP, a couple pairs of used Adire Extremis or the like, and then sell the JBL and get a less well known amp you can use for the mids and a cheap little 50wx2 for the tweets. I may stretch you a bit beyond the budget, but it would put everything in good shape.

You aren't serious are you? Passive HLCD's? Need to stop that right away unless you've custom built them with measurements. Which passives are you using?

You've been asked to search and look around yourself multiple times. Had you, you'd already have found that and more.

Is new still the choice if another alignment would achieve your goals better?

There is no benefit of slapping together randomly off the shelf chinese parts and calling it a driver. In particular when you let someone choose which ones with absolutely no knowledge or understanding of anything. If you've ever seen a ported box design that just doesn't work for a woofer, imagine designing a woofer like that box was designed. Monster fail.

No, ur wrong, when a new plane is designed, somebody draws it on a piece of paper, then mindless workers try and try hundreds of versions until they get lucky and one flies. Actually many prototypes (of anything) are built and tested until they get it right, attempted troll fail. I'm not against modelling, I'm just saying it shouldn't be the end all and be the ONLY way one can determine how good a sub is because some socially awkward phaggot sits behind a keyboard and says HEY! this sub is crap because LEAP told me so. I don't know where in science it states that expected results based on a model is always the final and true result, why do people even conduct experiments if they already know the end result? lol. What's the point of trying to prove hypotheses? Guess you all never heard of subjectivity and relativity etc, especially in the car audio where there are many uncontrollable factors to consider at any given point in time. The experimental is done to verify/update the model. Depending on the complexity of the product being designed modelling isn't very accurate. This is particularly true when boundary conditions are new. Companies that make prototypes that fail can blame their engineering. It's obviously poor. Not really that normal these days. Sure there are always updates but even on ultra complex devices like planes, automobiles and the like it is rather minor what is done. They test for two reasons. One is improving NVH characteristics as material property modeling falls apart at higher frequencies because the complexity of parts and features that are spaced at those wavelengths make things complex, the other reason is for liability. Making sure you make something that lasts and doesn't fail in a way to create a liability is huge. In the audio industry, where really there hasn't been any major development in raw drivers in more than 40 years the modeling is pretty solid. If it isn't you can blame the engineer. I realize I am talking to a trolling log, but am wondering what your point is. You keep alluding to things you know nothing about, but I am not sure why. Also curious how it pertains to Skar customer service.