///M5

I know the feeling, looking out the window right now is KILLING me.

4th order bandpass enclosures are in 95+% of the cases a net negative and not a good thing. No reason to design one as the standard ported enclosure will be a much better choice.

Don't rush, I am not 100% that I am doing it...90% yes

Sorry, thought that was more clear. Build a ported box based on the recommendations on Fi's website. What you can read into this is that you should NOT build a 4th order band pass for it.

It has nothing to do with years. I guess you are publicly answering the question you pm'd me for yourself.

Indeed. 4th order ported NOT bandpass. You do not want a 4th order bandpass. Absolutely wrong. 2:1 ratio won't do anything good for you. If ANYONE ever recommends the same ratiometric design for any driver they are showing their ignorance and all information they've relayed should be ignored. Wherever you picked that up from stop reading as it is confusing you. Well, could you please elaborate and explain instead of debunking and showing my ignorance. Help is just that. Not a free chance of disproving anyones methods. I sure appreciate help when it's given. Explain? It is rudimentary Physics. Do you design a sealed box with a random size, do you a ported box without knowing what driver you are using? 4th order BP are the same. They need to be designed around goals and the driver. Not sure what else you need??

Problem with the wrap is the actual footboards, but these are sweet: http://backcountryrebels.com/showthread.php?t=24939

Part of me wants to be lazy and not do it and just wrap the tunnel in vinyl.

Ought to be a fun 12 beers, lol

Indeed. 4th order ported NOT bandpass. You do not want a 4th order bandpass. Absolutely wrong. 2:1 ratio won't do anything good for you. If ANYONE ever recommends the same ratiometric design for any driver they are showing their ignorance and all information they've relayed should be ignored. Wherever you picked that up from stop reading as it is confusing you.

PM coming It's my understanding the self piercing ones don't come off so easy that way. The stainless pin needs to be pounded out in reverse once the mushroom is cut off. Thought drilling it first made sense, but I am a bit concerned as the pin is stainless and the riveted material aluminum which I don't want to overbore. I will spend $ to save time... Drill slightly larger than the mandrel, head pops off, rest falls out. Pretty simple.Doesn't that increase the risk of ovaling the hole? For everything else that is exactly what I tried. Pop rivets? Stainless self piercing, 3/16" ones. Hell on drill bits. Cobalt/Ti or bust I guess. Thought maybe there was a trick If you have a steady hand, you can always grind the heads off as well.Should I drill first?

So someone with a sampling of one will provide you what you need? Just play roulette, seriously.

Pop rivets? Stainless self piercing, 3/16" ones. Hell on drill bits. Cobalt/Ti or bust I guess. Thought maybe there was a trick

I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to

Cramping a 12 will be worse than utilizing a 10. Some used options but new there isn't so much that is exciting at that depth.

General consensus unrelated to your ears is not helpful. If you want a bunch of opinions where people hop up and say they like what they have then ask away. Be about as useful as a condom in an all boys school for a straight guy. Sort of akin to flipping a coin although the odds at getting a good choice with the coin are higher.

Not built in, it's a module. Usually a couple hundred bucks, but can be had cheaper if you are a wholesaler. I know one

Huh? What does internet have to do with home security and what are you looking for?Assumed you need solid Internet for a remote connection. At the least I'm looking for door and window sensors and some loud ass alarms. Ability to call cops, and or fire dept is good. Remote video surveillance would be cool, any other form of home automation is also a plus. You need a fast enough connection to equal RS232 Mine was all serial for a while. The actual sensors are even on a slower bus. You don't need millions of times per second as milliseconds don't matter. What you do need is something hardwired to every single entry. Wireless stuff sucks IMO.

indeed but it isn't a good sign either when someone is concerned about wattage to greater than 50% accuracy for music

I'd actually understand if it were a she, currently baffled

Was your rheumy at least good looking?

As in "soooooooooooouper"?

Boy Wonder?

cookies? nom nom nom nom nom nom

Really??? Are the rest of us total assholes? J Why ask a rhetorical question?