///M5

Track, extension, and new pistons should be coming soon too. Haven't quite picked them all out, but going to make it more aggressive.

Upgrading my 07 race sled to 2013 specifications. Lowers & widens the front end for better trail/ditch stability. Shaves more than 10lbs off too. Optional sway bar if I want it as well. Building myself a mini-Assault sled.

Got some new toys today too.

This was 3 hours ago

I'm calling in sick tomorrow. Time to break 3k mi for the year. 8" of fresh snow. YEAH BABY!

Don't forget to do block body lifts and not compensate in braking power for the massive increase in unsprung weight.What, you expect me to make major modifications to my vehicle AND take proper safety precautions ??? That's absurd !! However, talking to my dad last night....apparently the front tires on my car were the tires that originally came on it, and it's a '94. Time to have some fun and burn up the others then

What head unit do you have? Rockford RFX-8250Didn't know anyone was still running the Denford. I love that deck.

I'd keep everything you can out of the door. Terrible place for any electronics. The deadening faux pas isn't as bad as adding rears Some MLV would go a long way in helping too.

Out of curiosity why the extra step? Also can be hard if your flush mount depth isn't a complete board...

iPad isn't mobile skinIt's an Apple though so it probably sucks at everything you don't pay for.

Actually, way to go for you. I think you'd scream if my "little" bike came out your ass Might take 2 courtesy flushes?At least: That is before the mon chasseral wheelset

But to be fair, the sub 20lbs only happens with my road wheels as my cross wheels I didn't quite spend the same money on. Still under 21 at that point though

My steel roadbike (67cm) is under 20lbs and from the 80's. It's a road bike, not a mountain bike It isn't a road bike, it is a touring frame setup for cyclocross racing. Every bit as tough as a Mt Bike. More like a 29'er though as it has big wheels and my knobbies are still rather narrow.

Actually, way to go for you. I think you'd scream if my "little" bike came out your ass

and FUCK. noma is booked. Half the fucking reason I was going to Copenhagen was to go there. Aaargh.

My steel roadbike (67cm) is under 20lbs and from the 80's.

Those are $400/pr he has $600 for a receiver and two pair.

Mine would be a little different, but my speaker preference would be and a little more than your budget. The power above would be fine, but I am a Paradigm guy and love the Stylus 470 for outside. http://www.paradigm.com/index.php?option=com_mtree&task=viewlink&link_id=177&Itemid=2 Hey now, if I am allowed to double his budget I'd recommend differently as well. Although output wise my first option will seriously destroy those and fidelity wise the second will also. Pretty unfair though as retail wise a set with the raw drivers as picked would go for 4-10x the budget depending on cabinet and execution.

Just one other clarification. I put $100 in for the 535. You'll need 2 of them so it'll be $200. I know I pushed your budget, but hey, that's me. The amp & miniDSP as a front end/pre-amp and amplifier for $300 is a huge bargain compared to some random receiver you'd get. You "could" use a pre-amp instead of the miniDSP but the processing is rather nice to have. It also alleviates the need for a crossover which makes a ton of sense. I am assuming you are helping him with this so the enclosure and tuning isn't an issue. Building 4 sets of passives for $200 (price over just one amp) is not going to be easy... Otherwise you are left with something like the Zaph MCM/Vifa 5" or the like and with that budget I'd focus on getting more capable drivers. If you wanted to go more home oriented and still had the DSP power you could afford to do Dayton RS28's with the RS225. *assuming you have a PE wholesale account still. That combo will NOT work passive so well as you will need some serious slope to protect the tweet and get things to blend nicely. I also am not nearly as keen on that compared to the pro audio solution for doing well outdoors both because of weather and output. The HiVi M8N is a bit more weather proof than the Dayton if you want to stay home audio focused. Nasty peak again that will benefit huge from active tapering. There are cheaper options, but getting below $35 a cone means I am pretty much out of having experience with them. Sort of a cost versus time equation for me then.

In that case, I'd buy a miniDSP, a used Adcom 535 (easily can handle 4 ohms), a set of Faital 8FE200 (8ohm), and a compression driver and horn of your choice. Run the phone/pc into the miniDSP (make sure you get the volume control for a couple bucks) and the miniDSP into the amp. Build a box appropriate for the FE which doesn't have to be huge that is ported to around 70Hz and you'll have a system that could use a sub, but rips otherwise and won't suffer the same way that using home audio gear will outside. If you shop wisely for the horns it'll all fit in your budget as well. miniDSP $130 with ship Adcom $100 FE's $270 of course it'd be better if you could up the budget a bit for the horns, but there are options.

I think it depends on if you mean regular maintenance or shit breaking regularly. More maintenance, less breaking. Outside of normal maintenance items I've driven German iron nearly 300k with only a slave cylinder and a radiator separation. Total repair for both was around $1200. I can't think of anything else that has been a surprise. My Silverado on average spit more than that a year.

Crap. I screwed up the quoting above and then tried to fix it and edited and changed your post Randal. Since I had it in mine I restored it. I think I did it exactly how it was. Sorry.

There are a ton of full range class D. I run some in my boat. They sound amazing like an amp. ie, just as good as LP or any other amp. Scott's install skills are obviously not in question, but his drivers are overpriced turds. At a lower price I wouldn't call them that, but bang for the buck is WAY off the logical scale. Terrible investment. Classic case of selling something at a high price because of who you are. Good for him, but I'm not interested in any of them. Reminds me of a few other brands. That isn't pertinent at all to the discussion. Who cares if one amp only plays to a few hundred Hz. There are a ton that go beyond. Not sure why you didn't understand the gist of my response as it was rather clear. An amp sounds like an amp. Class D, Class A/B, doesn't matter. I made the response specific to you since you run LP, might as well be JL Full Range Class D or whatever. One other clarification, I didn't talk bad about Scott's company, but the price performance of his drivers. If you read it again you'll see I praised him.

Music source? Size of patio? Goals?

ok, fuck that