///M5

I did tell her, but the damn cabinet wouldn't listen. Nor the yard. Bitches.

I'm fucking exhausted

Umm, not at all. DD overprices their things because they can, that is it. The actual build cost of the DDZ is probably less than an Icon considering where they source their labor.

Lord. You should really ask why the are so cheap.<br /><br />There is ALWAYS a simple answer for how anything is priced. It is what the market will bear. Cost should never have anything to do with price. Value does. The SSA subs are a ridiculous value and IMO should be priced a lot higher.<br /><br />And yes, that is a technical answer. Any other thought on pricing is jacked.

But it is fun to down vote Kevin.<br /><br />Actually I haven't done it, but it makes me laugh when I see it.

150hz?? Yuk. I guess to each his own, but I have never run a LPF that high. I can't stand the sound. Sounds like someone tapping on the woofers instead of SUB bass. Again, that's just me. I wish you good luck in whatever route you decide to head. If you don't care about stage and have crappy midbass up front that is by far the easiest way to achieve a full freq response. Subs make rather efficient midbasses, only bummer is they are usually out back.

Um, no. Slight is a term I would use for audible.

You either need a set of components then or the willingness to buy a processor of sorts.

Well that benefit will not be the case.

I only ordered 2

Yep takes me longer to find a grocery bag to catch it in and a glove. I have the tool as well, but find that my hand is faster and gloves are cheap.

Jesus Christ, the 2014 911 Turbo S is $185k

The Viking C4 has a removeable fire grate so I just push it out the little door with my hand in a latex glove. Takes about 20 seconds.

*mock

They won't be once you mod them, at least if you do it "right"

They aren't going to help in the 80-120Hz unless the specs are absolutely terribly misleading. Midrange in the Pro Audio realm requires a midbass. 9 out of 10 complaints about components are also in this range. If you want to increase the output of your type R's the best way is to replace them completely with something else. Adding a bandaid on top of them won't do anything positive. To run anything active you are going to need some sort of processing. Do you already have this? If so, utilizing it to improve what you have is where I'd start and then depending on what you don't like fill in from there. Oh, the ST200's are horseshit and should NEVER be used in a car. Anywhere you read where they promote this or anyone who has them in their car is instantly showing you that they know basically nothing about audio.

I only clean mine when it's nearly empty.

Flat out wouldn't use them, no way no how. If there are no T/S parameters for a driver it is for a reason that makes you not want to run that driver.<br /><br />Also, they aren't effective for your goals....which could be clarified. You ask for more mid to higher frequencies. Where does this start? ie, where is your "more than taken care of" sub department end and you need to add from?<br /><br />In general a ported BL won't mate nicely to the Crescendo. You need a midbass for that, not a mid. Can't tell really what it is since there are no specs, but one thing is for sure. They claim 68-4800Hz which either means it isn't a pro audio driver or it is a flat out lie in the frequency range it can play.

First off, everyone did NOT vote for 8's. Second, build your box first! Price/performance is not something anyone else can really answer for you

What do you mean by the stage is too low? What about the Rally series in your truck did you prefer (not the physical mounting, but the sound)? What do you mean by "muddy" and "flat"? How did the AC EQ help? ie, what did you do setting wise to get ride of or resolve what? What about it is harsh? How is the bazooka stuff sounding "better"? Nailing down these sort of details will really help determine the best fix. Difficulty is now. My definition of muddy, flat, better etc are different than yours. Putting it into a subjective response of what it does to a song that makes you not like it would help a ton. Just don't use trite terminology to describe, but instead use specifics.

Backwards Fixored

Light the charcoal longer, you need a serious fire to get heat. I melted my 1500F gaskets on mine

Thanks trod. Sign was wrong, obviously the math was right otherwise

There is a start. What don't you like about like about the passive results? ie, it is always better to go about something relatively as it is much easier to define how to deal with the concern. Exactly why I tell everyone to not jump in head first and buy what you think is your final set of drivers right away. EVERY install you will learn something and want something to change. This is the audio disease that we all have otherwise we wouldn't be here which means research to find the "best" solution right away will never lead you there. Better to invest in things you can resell, but are improving the concerns you have right now than to go straight to the holy grail since like in real life it doesn't exist.

The illusion is ONLY in the division by zero itself. Whether it is 10-10 or 0 you still can't do it. It is clever though, made me think way too much.