///M5

What do you mean by gravel & dirt?Generally speaking completely smooth tires have the most traction. Completely diffeent than cars. Although when you have really loose shit that changes. The trails here are in the woods and on fields. Dirt roads, lose dirt over solid dirt, lose gravel, even sand at some point. I'd say 50% of the surfaces are like in Seth's pictures. I wouldn't call the surfaces really lose. With my current tires, on off-camber sections I'm sliding down, downhill I don't have enough braking confidence (kool stops are the bomb) and uphill I have to stay seated for grip and on corners they don't give me any sense of security. Last week I ran into some muddy climbs and the rear slick was worthless. In the winter it was enough to get me by on straights but worthless on any sort of slope. I'm looking at this: and mire effort and slower. Outside of Mud I like a skinnier rear 2.1 tire should also be a bit softer on the bumps than a 1.75

The auto-eq sucks donkey dick. Makes things sound like ass. Not even good for a baseline IMO. In general all boost is bad. You should retune your sub with the boost off. Of course, as I said distortion = perceived volume so perhaps you like that.

why the testing in a hemi-anechoic room?

Depends on what you need for crossovers.

It's mostly patience

Auto setup hasn't worked well in the two cars I've heard. Not awful, but FAR from optimal.

Test discs are insightful in the beginning. Let me state this a bit different. To me this isn't a hobby, a sport, or something I even want to have to do. I just love music and hate it when the stereo fucks up the music. That being said, the best (and worst if you want to be apathetic about speaker choices) advice I can give is to focus on teaching your ear. It's time to learn. Not to get louder or sound better, bu to understand WHY what sounds like how it does and then decide if you like it or not. I took 14 years of piano lessons, 12 years of classical guitar, 4 years of upright bass, 3 years of voice lessons, and have played in countless bands of all genre's. One thing in common with ALL the learning. A major focus was on training your ear. The other of course is concentration which is a priceless skill for anyone and exactly why ALL children should be required to take music lessons. Needless to say those skills help more than anything in determining tones. I also ran a soundboard 1-2x per week as a job for 3 years in an acoustically super live venue. Absolutely horrid place for sound, but damn does it teach you how to listen for anomalies and fix them. Focus on your ear, the rest will then come easy.

Although in general distortion is volume to the human ear.

What did you tweak? Unless you had some weird shit either going on before or with your box it shouldn't just automatically do anything like that.

I don't know. IIRC, the 32 band 16L/R is only available in network mode. I assume it is the same as the 880 and would also expect that the HP/LP allows you to basically run full range in network mode. This means you would gain nearly everything EXCEPT the crossovers. Considering you don't need those, I'd do it anyways. It is possible that the HP/LP on/off adjustability won't let you do this but I think you can. When I had my 880 I never was in the situation to check and I've owned a lot of different processors so I may be not remembering. A half bottle of Tequila also might have my memory a bit soft [img=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/

For instance, you'll notice if you search through all the setups I've recommended that I never once offered up which was by far my all time favorite combo that includes a 7" and a small format tweeter. It's never matched what anyone on here would want and it was hell to minimize the processing. Neither which are good for a, "I don't like my comp set and want to step up" situation.

I started doing that once Sean, at your recommendation at that point in time, and got busy with so many other things I haven't had a chance to get back to it. I do think I will begin it again and finish it this time so I can report on the findings. Thanks for chiming in here. I figured if I can get the two of you in on it I may have a chance at learning what I need to learn to gain the experience necessary to make this thing a real SQ machine. I'm sure you understand, but I doubt you know how bad I really would love to get as close to perfection as possible. Just to beat a deadhorse. Perfection is in the ear of the beholder. That means you should use your ears to decide what you do and don't like about the drivers you have. Then you can easily cite what you want to improve. Every driver I've owned has done something better or worse than another. Imagine that, compromise in audio. Compound that in a car and listening for what YOU want is critical. Also realize your first time out there is a ton that can be improved so even after you upgrade once you'll be right back into the ugh, upgrade stage. This is also a good and bad thing. Your ignorance is about to become even less. Means your critical listening will become more demanding. At the same time, you'll be 1000% behind the follow the sheep mentality that destroys the rest of the car stereo forums on the net.As you play, think about how ridiculous of a reality the above is. Alone transients here make up for how many super tweeter front stages? What you have makes that sound silly, but that'll only continue.

Use what you have to first understand what you want better.<br /><br />This means listen to each driver independently. Maximize that. Then start adding pairs. ie, both tweets is one pair, the tweet & mid from one side is another, and so on.<br /><br />Understand what they do on music and on tones and then start to decide what you are missing and what'd you should fix. This will lead you down the right path of not wasting tons of dough.<br /><br />Of course, I guarantee you'll come to the same conclusion Brad did. You have the drivers, the processing, the amp so run what you have active first applying what you learn above and take it a step better. Then you'll actually be able to shop for drivers with a goal of improving something so the purpose will end up being one that will be not only an improvement but a good learning experience.

I'd isolate L from R even if it means just unplugging the R or L. Then do frequency sweeps listening for abnormalities and see how they differ from side to side. Then start removing them. The less drivers playing at a time the easier it is to hear things. Of course since they are passive you have to verify together as well.

That's an awesome way to blow a new subwoofer. Sundown even says do not play your new sub at rated power until the break in. Ha, rofl. Not at all. Unlike yourself I am not an idiot. BTW, it is exactly what we do during prototype testing at manufacturers so perhaps you want to tell them all it is wrong too.

Thought you were completely clueless before, but wow. You obviously like kool aid.

What do you mean by gravel & dirt? Generally speaking completely smooth tires have the most traction. Completely diffeent than cars. Although when you have really loose shit that changes.

Ahh, I didn't know you changed your name to Sunday. Cute.

Great shitters too. It's where I bought mine. The other stores with cheap toilets have crap

The ONLY time you should break something in is if you need to measure the T/S parameters for modeling as they will change after the suspension loosens up.

Dude, stop being a moron. Using military boards and being .5ohm stable was a marketing decision. Unrelated to final price. Neo magnets add NO VALUE to a subwoofer. Sure some cost, but it doesn't make anything worth anything. If you want education on why it is a great woofer, fine, but relating it to what they set as their selling price is fucking moronic.

Whatever you find the right color in. Most painters swear by Sherwin Williams, but of course they can buy it for the price of Behr.

The only one being dramatic is you. Your questions were answered, however, not to your liking. If you want specifics, then state that. Most people want a simple answer which was provided. I won't even bother with your nonsense comment. Are you blind? The OP says PLEASE TRY TO BE SPECIFIC/TECHNICAL IN YOUR ANSWER If I wanted a simple answer I would not have typed, PLEASE TRY TO BE SPECIFIC/TECHNICAL IN YOUR ANSWER And the dramatic people are those defending SSA when noone is attacking SSA, and why are you guys so defensive anyways, is there something not being said? 90% of the answers I got were from people who do not know what they are talking about like yourself tire, saying because it is made in USA. Real good input and helpful to boot..... So don't get butthurt and go banning me or something. There is what, 1 new thread here a week, and I now see why. The ONLY technical reason is that the owners of SSA are too nice to put a real margin on their product. If they acted like other companies their products would be way more expensive.I wouldn't call this defending SSA, hell almost ripping on them. I give them shit regularly about raising the prices as they are inappropriately low for what you get. As for understanding marketing on how things are priced, there isn't a major audio manufacturer that my company hasn't been a critical cog in the design of the drivers. I've been in countless R&D and manufacturing centers and have an extremely good understanding of production cost. In the grand scheme of things it NEVER changes the selling price. You'd also cry at the markup's the big players can have as production is definitely an economy of scale and it is absurd how cheap things can be manufactured that way. The whole topic is a prepubescent nightmare showing an obvious disconnect in the world of business.

Smells like Polyurethane and Enamel.

Thanks for posting. The emotion travels a bit with the pictures.