///M5

who? are you sure it is the same fucknut?

Yikes, indeed. Audio Central looks like a joke and the best thing local to Rankin.

If you aren't diy'ing you can do a 3 way....of course budget dependent. It will also allow you to up the driver quality as dealing with cone breakup passively isn't trivial. The last option, in particular if you don't want to build crossovers, would be a pair of 5 chn amps and a minidsp setup so that you can run all 5 speakers active. This opens a crap ton of options. As for DIY's, I'd be curious to ask Matt 1 (vladd) if he ever built the ZDT's he bought. They also have an option for a lay down center. If he hasn't built them he'd probably sell you the pieces and if he has it'd be a nice personal review. Jon Marsh also has some stellar designs that could be used.

You may have thought you've mentioned that, but it has always been embedded in something making it extremely hard to follow. Even here you were doing great until you used the word fullness. Curious on what part of the voice. Is it only deep males, high pitched females, all the above? Also be interested in what goes down when you turn it up? Everything has a give take which means noting that will allow us to help you dial it in. Curious what you mean by drum beats too. Big difference between a snare and a bass drum. I also realize you may not be able to pick out the difference, but more of a description would be helpful. Either way on the drums I wouldn't really try anything until you mount your driver on a baffle and use some MLV to separate the front and back wave coming from the mid.

And by diy do you mean build or design?

No it does not. I was just looking around and read great reviews on those "overnight sensations." What would you recommend? I would like to go the DIY route so I can build my own enclosures but if I found a good deal on something built, I wouldn't mind. Depends on the foot print. If you can run three vertical towers for the fronts and have enough WAF I'd do it. If you can't then it is time for another design. WMTW >>>> MTM if you do need something that lays down.

Ah, a new detail. What lack of midrange output? ie, what are you missing? Understanding what you think this is will help us help you.

You don't hear "clear" so why do you want it? Also not sure you are asking for more volume, what I hear is more perceived output. They are not the same. This is exactly why I have been trying to get you to use expressive terms instead of buzz words that you don't comprehend completely. Not sure if you can download tracks. Sheffield or another similar company had a set at one point though.

HAF is still broken Sean so I can't sign in to post in your thread.<br /><br />Does your room require the speakers to lay down? If not, I'd never use an MTM...

What do you think distortion sounds like? I suggest buying a set of tracks recorded normal, at 5%, 10%, 20%, 30% distortion. You'll be shocked. Sounds to me like you are well above the 20's regularly. Actually might sound quieter although the music will actually be louder.You keep referencing wanting an SQ setup, why such a big concern over output?

Of course I am comparing mid 90's memory to a few years ago, but cars are pretty memorable to me.

Seriously more fun to drive. WAY.

Bridging your amp will not give you 200w. It may give you the potential of 200, but that is a completely different scenario. You will now have enough power to hurt them though so listen carefully. The amp and speakers will only do what you tell them to.<br /><br />If the shop set the gains (which they should have) then they are worth bashing.

In places like this ... I'm usually paying more attention to the wife than anything else, if you know what I mean ...Oh yes, good dinner, couple of beers, good music ... Its on !!! Car/Office/Plane/Listening Room - I am usually alone or with someone listening to musicKitchen/Living Room - We celebrate music as a family. You really should spend some time in a listening room once. It'll really open your eyes. Probably the absolute best thing you could do to improve your car stereo.

Thanks for telling me.(the sub also does that if i turn it up with the windows down) I thought the tickling means hearing damage. i would not have guessed that was distortion. Overdriving the speakers? or the amplifier? which one is more likely? The type Rs are the highest power rated 6.5 (common) component speakers that i have seen at 110 rms. If I'm overdriving them now, i definitely will be if i bridge the amp. Couple misconceptions you have:1) Hearing damage sure, but that happens at levels WAY below where you are. Damage occurs even below 80dB, but obviously gets worse beyond there. 2) SQ systems do not sound anywhere near as loud as poorly setup systems. Distortion is perceived volume. Another reason you probably won't like one. 3) We know your amplifier was WAY into clipping from other threads. When it clips it dumps a crapload of distortion into the signal which you perceive as an increase in output. Bridging the amp will not cause this to increase unless you drive the amplifier into clipping again. It should be easier to not with double the power. 4) Power ratings on speakers are useless. The 110w is a marketing ploy. Whether you give them 75w, 100w, 110w (unclipped) your ears won't hear the difference. Obviously shopping on that specification is absolutely useless. 5) Typically the easiest place to overdrive a set of components (that have properly designed crossovers) is in the midbass. This is very audible. It is also usually the fault of the install or at least can be significantly increased when installed properly. 6) Seriously throw out thinking about power specifications on anything, it will only mislead you. 7) You need setup help BADLY. Whatever shop you paid sucks donkey balls as they obviously didn't at all pay attention to any details First things first turn your amps down until the hiss is gone. Then lets work on improving the mounting for the mids and your box.

I don't follow what you are asking, but it is rather easy. You don't fuse the draw, you fuse the wire. Fuse should be as close to the source as possible.

I drove the sho at that time in my life

I'd bet money what you call "tickling" is distortion. You are over driving your speakers and amplifiers.

Box and amp are independent. Box I'd build more optimally, makes no sense to shoe horn something into a non-ideal situation. If you can't make the box fit selling and getting 10's makes sense. As for the power, not sure why you don't get it. Turn the gain down. I've teested 8w tweeters on my 1000w Crown. It's my lab amp and what I use for testing/designing etc. Also, don't believe birth sheets. No standard are they tested to. The whole "under rated" sub or amp is a joke as well which you outlined in the inaudible difference it will gain you

6 martini lunch, ah the good ole days

LoL I meant at work. I want to work where you work

Lol "jus one mor beer brah" I have dang near the best amp and head unit that the companies that sell them make, I'm sure i can do better,Maybe you meant to say Install, Install, install?I said it first! ( ) hahaThe ground runs near the rca's for like a foot By the way, does a 3" coil have more motor strength than a 2.5" coil on the same power? umm, no. Don't forget that the. WHOLE chassis is a ground. Coils don't have motor strength.

Bridging will help. Your gains were too high. The impact you are looking fo is an install problem. Need a baffle and to separate the back wave from the front wave. New speakers will do less than fixing the install for that. You are getting better in your descriptions

Woof woof woof

I lift 12 fluid ounces at a time