///M5

Some more of Scandinavia: Norwegian Fjord Shots School in Stockholm - nice trees lol

I can't tell from the phone. Overcast days give that really "flat" light which is often considered ideal. From here it looks fantastic, butmaybe you are looking to bring back something your eye saw that iI ddon't have a frame of reference to. Eye of the beholder and all that. Ha it was really gray. I want to bring back more than just the something I saw.

30 day trial. Figured I'd play and see what is all out there, but the trial may work for them as I am getting comfy with it quick.

Also might have been better if it were more underexposed initially.

Thing that looks strange to me is that the white & blue of the clouds is somewhat switched.

Sometimes good shots do that. Especially on water. It might also be the compressed size. Sometimes that can make colors "bigger" than they are.And I overblued the contrast in the sky. All HDR feel from LR dynamic range optimizing only

Blue, unless you are going to blow it up so big it is grainy. Grey's look cool blown up IMHO, blues look like yuk. Loving light room? I hope it my review and rec lives up to the hype I gave it. I'm using it for free atm.

What is safe and why do you think it is desirable? The easiest way to be safe is to buy an amp that doesn't have the capability of blowing a sub. Of course, dumbing down an amp that does by setting it safe nets you the same results and overall output. So, you want to buy an 8k amp and make it a 1k amp? That'd be safe. As for your comment on it taking longer with your ear, that is the biggest hock of shit I've ever heard. It is instantaneous. Hell you should be doing it for every song and even for parts of songs if you are pushing the limit. The DD-1 takes WAY longer. Training your ear can take some time, but that has side benefits and is desirable.

Wee bit pissed I didn't adjust the polarizer better on that shot. It was somewhat of an afterthought photo, but I like it.

It was uber overcast

Blue sky or gray sky? And yeah, I know I overdid the blue but I only downloaded Lightroom this morning so I know not of what I am doing.

Kjosfossen Waterfall. It was raining and super overcast. Could be worse though.

Indeed, I wouldn't go to Salina

Kyle - huge difference between using a method and understanding it. To me that is where the learning starts, not ends. You left off one rather major detail in your question and that is always the first thing to think about. Without defining the goal it is pointless. Of course, I'd say running 8k of power is pointless as well (unless competing). If it is truly to listen to then of course I'll set it by ear. I think you have another misconception here. Gain setting is only one little teeny technical part of the equation. The other is using the volume knob during every song. For this you HAVE to use your ear. If you set your system gains conservatively such that you can use the volume knob without thinking then you might as well cut your power by 1/4th since you are doing at least that in your conservative settings. As for the goal, if it is to compete and eek out every last tenth of a dB the rules change completely, but the DD-1 is still pointless in that regard. You'd be significantly louder without it. You can quote Steve on that statement even. Obviously not. I've had ear training since I was 5. Play classical guitar, piano, upright bass, elec bass, sing, electric guitar, plectrum guitar, work in Acoustic consulting and pretty much focus my life around improving my ears every day. Taking just a TEENY bit of motivation to improve your listening is the best possible thing you can do for music. It will also help you more with your stereo than ANYTHING else you can do. Encouraging this behavior should be done every step of the way. Exactly why teaching your ear to hear strain in a system and then utilizing this in EVERY song you listen to is by far the best idea. Let's make this simple. I'll ask the same question I asked Steve. If someone can answer in a way that actually makes sense I'll gladly apologize and state I was wrong. Question is to think of a use for the DD-1 that actually is a benefit. The only one I can think of is padding Steve's pocketbook. That one or thoughts like it don't count.

We need a better description to comment. Gain knob it shouldn't be

Do you have to have the emotional capability of a 4 year old to buy Blues Audio stuff? Seriously, my 4 year old is more capable of a discussion where he is misapplying information.

Sir, I do not bad mouth ANY product or anybody on this forum. And I do respect what you post. So can you please do me (and my car build) a favor, show me the same respect and not bad mouth any products or anybody on my build log ??? Thank you in advance ... Like I said, I have no idea what the final numbers will be until everything is measured out, built, tested and tuned ... at this point in time, I have ALOT more things that need to be done before this is even an issue !!! A spade is a spade. If you are fully absorbed into believing something not based solely on fact there is a level of BS. Of course you took it out of context, even in your quote . Please re-read, it wasn't a bad mouth at all about a product but a request that you attempt to think for yourself and understand something once instead of blindly following. It is a really good skill in life to have.

Surprised at what? It was far from a recommendation to do it. Implementing a 4 way active setup isn't trivial and mounting locations and other constraints make it a bitch. Can be done effectively. I've used a ton of PA drivers in my life, but always thinking about the application at hand first and not following some idiot recommendation on the web. If you were surprised at my Blues comment, I thought I would just make ridiculous judgemental claims to mimic your own. Of course, in my case I'll stand by mine but it has nothing to do with the drivers themselves but the bullshit marketing machine and retardedly brand loyal consumer base. They aren't special drivers...not unlike most PA drivers. In application of course they can be used, but as a fit for all they are as big of a fucking joke as Pro Audio drivers. Raw drivers are dumb. They will only do what you make them do. Using them out of context will result in less than stellar performance. Doesn't matter what the driver is this holds true. The sad part with PA drivers is that I haven't seen a good implementation of them ever posted on a car audio forum by their owner. Look man, I came back after the initial post and tried to say I wasn't jumping on the guy. If he wants to do it, then fine. I stated it was only MY OPINION and he could choose to let it influence his decision or not, simple as that. I hate pro audio drivers. That's ME. It's apparent you hate the brand Blues. Fine. But, you then go on to make a statement that indicates their customer base is retarted. Whatever man, I don't have the time nor the energy to sit here and argue with you. You like what you do, I like what I do. We can leave it at that, if you think you can? I don't make personal attacks on individuals or anyone customers' base. Reading comprehension eludes you. Google adjective. On top of that the only way you can take that personally is if the shoe fits. Like with anything stereotypes don't apply to all, but if you felt it personally then perhaps a mirror is in order. You can keep "arguing" with yourself if you like, I'm not a part of that. Keeping this on topic, perhaps you'd like to share why you hate pro audio drivers. Perhaps separating your emotional reactions as they don't really add anything to the thread.

I'm not going to have final say what the enclousres will be tuned to cause I'm leaving that up to Linear Power. Mid 30s ??? No thank you, I would run them sealed before I went any higher than 28 htz. but thanks for your opinion ... But whatever goes in there, I trust those guys not to dissapoint !!! Randal, you need to learn to read. Nowhere did I say to tune to the mid-30's I was referring to the response of the driver in an enclosure. If you'd pull your head up out of the LP BS for a second and actually spend 20 seconds modeling something you could learn a shit ton. When you do, you will see how stupid a 24Hz tune on some 8's up front will be. If Ray even hints that it is a good idea then he knows donkey dick about audio.

Be VERY careful in that search. You cannot just look at one spec or another and pick a PA driver. You'll end up with shit. Generically speaking most PA midbasses need to be in a somewhat large ported enclosure to work effectively. That isn't trivial to make work in a car.

Surprised at what? It was far from a recommendation to do it. Implementing a 4 way active setup isn't trivial and mounting locations and other constraints make it a bitch. Can be done effectively. I've used a ton of PA drivers in my life, but always thinking about the application at hand first and not following some idiot recommendation on the web. If you were surprised at my Blues comment, I thought I would just make ridiculous judgemental claims to mimic your own. Of course, in my case I'll stand by mine but it has nothing to do with the drivers themselves but the bullshit marketing machine and retardedly brand loyal consumer base. They aren't special drivers...not unlike most PA drivers. In application of course they can be used, but as a fit for all they are as big of a fucking joke as Pro Audio drivers. Raw drivers are dumb. They will only do what you make them do. Using them out of context will result in less than stellar performance. Doesn't matter what the driver is this holds true. The sad part with PA drivers is that I haven't seen a good implementation of them ever posted on a car audio forum by their owner.

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/ported-single-15-subwoofer-enclosure.html

The enclosures that are installed in my truck are tuned at 24 htz ... Kinda figured this will work just as well in the old 49 ... Plus, I do not want a sub enclosure in the trunk area taking up space (just not needed to get the output I'm looking for), got too many plans for that truck area !!!It isn't a good idea to use assumptions. In this case, I know I'd much rather have flat response is within 3dB to the mid 30's than to extend a few Hz lower on the bottom. In particular when the trade off is that the 3dB down point on the other enclosure happens around 10Hz higher. This is compounded by the length of the labyrinth port you are going to end up on the small enclosure. Yuck. Go ahead if you like, but don't expect "SQ" with that alignment choice.

ROFL, no shit eh?