///M5

Fast, humane, and cost effective. Just hard to do if you are shook up. Don't want to miss. 12 ga. goose load. Can't miss.

Although I prefer to pay the butcher $25 as he will dispatch the pig, gut it, skin it and chill it for that. BEST money spent IMO

I'd shoot an animal for bacon.

Sorry Matt, no fun. Just had to try to spark funny into it, but left out any and all class.

Don't get me excited about one again damnit.

Umm, this is the first time he's ever stated that on the forum period. Considering that, his friendship with the company, and emotional reactions is it even believable? You are seriously that much of a sally?

Since he burned the bacon he deserves it. <- hates cats

Shiesse. All morning I've been meaning to send you a text. On a conference call from hell and it won't be done until 2 so I am going to just eat some shit here. Delay on the lens is me, no worries on that....although I'd love to go to West with you.

Serious lack of comprehension and always so emotional. It is seriously sad.

And there it is again. You pasted this into your thread. I'd tried to leave it elsewhere. It is really audio 101. Wasting money is worse than spending it. Your choice. If you want to meet then travel to something worth visiting. And lol to the attitude you "aren't changing anything"

I never asked, just was letting you know the effort/cost of the install is being SEVERELY limited by your driver choice. As for me coming to an event, not sure how that pertains at all to the discussion at hand. Just an FYI. Designing new passives to use in situ will cost more than new drivers.

Never seen or heard about it, but I don't watch tv really.

Raw drivers are cheaper than components so it is rather easy to sell what you have and buy something more appropriate.

Dude ... Have you seen any pics I've posted in this log ?? This car is a monster lead sled ... I have more than enough room to install anything I want ... I could pull a Mark Eldridge and install 12s in the kicks If I want ...possibilities are endless when you completely gut a car as large as this one and start from scratch ... So then go for it. Exactly why I commented above.

Its cool bro ... When the time gets here (with my luck and budget ... might be a while), we will do what is best for the car ... hell, I've got to get the seats correctly mounted and mocked up so we can measure something. I just got the seat frame welded together yesterday.And the passive crossovers I'm running are FAR FROM "Off the shelf passive crossvers" ... I know you don't like them ... but is cool, life would suck if I didn't get to piss off atleast one person a day ... LOL If they aren't designed in situ then they are "off the shelf"

Case and point. Your Ford install. As with ANY install be it home, car, boat the first thing you decide on are mounting locations. THEN you can start shopping for drivers. In your case this was done in reverse. That will never lead to an optimal install.

I figured in here you wouldn't I have all the time in the world to get this thing to work like I want it ... What's the difference, you've never taken it easy on me before ... Why start now ?? I actually do take it easy on you. You always take conversations personally and emotionally which makes it hard to have a productive conversation so I greatly limit my criticism. Figured if I posted in here you'd not see it as pooping on your thread but trying to help. Of course, what you see as me not being easy on you in other comments is also me trying to help.

I'd of course say the same about using any driver from a set that includes a passive as well, but thought I'd leave that comment separate. The goal here is to utilize your install space as much as possible and not compromise there. You have only so many places you can put things in your car, choosing a specific driver that has an optimal response for that location will do wonders. Using a component set will just be lackluster in comparison. This of course is further exacerbated by the fact that you have the locations to build actual enclosures and sets with passives are never optimized for that sort of install. It is akin (and worse) than using a sub that is designed for a large ported enclosure in a small sealed.

on a home audio system let's say a 2 way setup where you have the tweeter and the midrange drivers in the exact same enclosures (as in a left and right cabinet) ... Would you time align the tweetes and midrange drivers separately ??? I have all the time in the world to get this thing set up the way I want ...thats the beauty of building a street machine yourself !!! Randal, I NEVER said anything about time alignment. Just passive or active. As for your other question of passive not working, I'd NEVER say that either. However, with the amount of work you are putting into this using off the shelf crossovers is asinine. If you build custom passives based on in situ measurements then is all I have to say. Personally I am too lazy for that in a car when running active is so much easier. Off the shelf passives are designed with a TON of compromises. Considering the enclosure building, location manipulation and so many steps you are putting into this car to make it sweet not doing the same on the crossovers would be a crying shame.

I didn't put that in your thread for a reason, I find it amusing you did.

Non-custom measured in place passives are a bad idea. WAY too much work on your install to do that.

Perhaps it is time to pony up and do the research and design it yourself or pay someone for a design.

Hell, I am contemplating that lens myself.

Probably would get you closer to $600 with a good 40d, but I am sure there is a little wiggle room on price and it would KILL anything new for $600. Hell it would be better than anything new for $1000. You'd also be able to sell it all with minimal loss if you upgrade.

This: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pho/3867031483.html and a body of your choice would be fine.