///M5

Err, not true on any account. I'd take the Koreans over the Japanese on ALL of your list. The Japanese also have BY FAR the highest cost, not the Americans. The only problem with American made stuff is that our people are so fucking lazy that the build cost gets all fucked up.

If you understand everything then fix your post. VERY simple. And btw, this isn't about real world versus clamp tests, just about testing methodology and understanding the meaning and results of the test. As I said above, real world it doesn't frickin' matter.

Lets look at this shall we a build house buys a 3k 4k or whatever k board. They put the components on the board that's suppose to make whatever power that its suppose to make. They hook it up to a dummy load with no rise or voltage drop to check to see if it makes the power it suppose to and if it does then it passes their test. Then they sell it to someone like me when we ask for a amplifier to start a company. We get a sample to test for power to see if it will indeed make the power they state. Now whether its with a clamp meter or with a amp dyno or whatever ohm law is ohms law last time I checked. Now using a clamp may not be 100% accurate but it is close enough to give you a idea of if it works or make close to the power it is suppose to. As far as needing any help on testing you are more than welcome to buy one and test it out and post your results. Did you read my post? I didn't offer to test, I offered to help you understand your results in such a way you could make them a useful post instead of one full of misunderstanding. By any and ALL scientific methodology a measurement without determining the uncertainty isn't a valid measurement period. Obviously this isn't something that was understood in your initial post since you shared WAY too many digits after the first.

And with no amps what are those wires connected to?

That's better, beware where you get your information and how you cite it then. We'd be glad to help. The main issues with your comment above are: The DD-1 CANNOT measure distortion. It is not part of the algorithm. And not even close btw. Clamp tests are not valid. Using something with rise for a test is non-scientific and won't give you any results worth sharing. The significant digits that you posted are absurd, ie, no way in hell ANY of the gear shown would get you anywhere near enough to go to four digits (1768w or whatever). Obviously that means that the data shared beyond the accuracy of the device is downright misleading and shouldn't be used. It will also make you cry how un-accurate the results are. Of course, in reality we all know that whether the amp makes 1400w, 1768w, or 2000w you won't hear the difference anyways so chasing ridiculous digits and citing them just removes any believability from the post.

Use a hosting site like photobucket or imageshack

I know. Just telling you the niche I appreciate.

Raw power is great if the amps are consistent in build quality. Korea has yet to master that. I'll take a slightly higher price for a better made product. J Korea has mastered that more than ANY other country. Their production is top fucking notch. Of course that does not mean that you can't find a shitty build house there. Some people had to get fired from Samsung.

It takes nothing but capital to order product from Asia. No knowledge, no defined niche to fill, no product differentiation. Just money and the ability to order from a menu. That's the truth...nobody does anything special. I'd disagree, err almost. Special to me is small and efficient. The rest I don't so much care about. The little Polk's in my boat are bomb-diggity.

Had company and took the day off yesterday to do projects. Perhaps glad I haven't seen themNew amps rated at zero distortion per a DD-1 Really fucking sad. Hopefully they get it now...since you made me search.

At least they said 0 distortion with no reference to THD. A couple quick hints for you. In the future if you are going to quote testing the customer base here would appreciate that you post significant digits and uncertainty on your measurements. Stating a power of 1768.029381 watts would show a rather large lack of understanding in testing methodology. And since I was setup like a t-ball my other recommendation is to throw that useless piece of junk (the DD-1) in the garbage (or CL it). It isn't helping you do anything. If you think it truly is, start a thread and we can discuss it. By no means is this ANY attack on the product or company. I can assume since Mark & Aaron offered you a spot on the board that you guys are great and the product will be as well. Just want to help outline how to really get that message across.

If you solve distance with the speed of sound you will be left with time.

That part is simple really. Just don't build anything but a standard ported or sealed enclosure. There are applications for other alignments, but they are few and far between.

Had company and took the day off yesterday to do projects. Perhaps glad I haven't seen them

J - find a Nordstrom Rack. Boss/Armani/RL etc and such go for $300-400 there versus $800-1000 in the main store. Same suit too, usually just last years.

I'll have a drink for you tonight. Cheers!

Glad all is okay, spooky.

What was the hissing?

T/A is hard by ear. That isn't tuning though, but physical setup. You didn't ask about that. An acquisition system, mic and the capability to measure in the time domain with an Impulse response is the best way to set it up. If you don't have that start with a ruler and convert for the speed of sound and use that as your delay.

My LS powered Chevy was WAY more expensive per mile in maintenance and repairs than his diesel. And if I normalized the price of diesel to gas (so I don't have to do math) it'd also be way cheaper on fuel.

My BIL hasn't spent that on his Ford in the 7 years and 150k miles he's driven it. Not even close. I can introduce him to many people around here who have. Interesting, I can introduce you to tons that haven't. Pretty much his whole "neighborhood". His truck leads a hard life too. He doesn't ever drive it anywhere unless there is a cattle trailer or the like behind it.

Whatever other site you are reading on is misleading the crap out of you. Octo, rofl.

Umm, no they aren't. They suck at your needs otherwise you wouldn't have made this thread. That 10" is NOT a good fit for you. And that will suck WAY worse than what you have now. Have you not been reading in your own thread?

If I were building a Modular 5.4 motor I would use MMR, you can get a very nice built shortblock for about 3200 bucks. Or a full assembly internal kit for around 1500-2000. I would rather a have a assembled shortblock myself, finding trust worthy Modular builders local would be difficult I think. here is a link http://www.modularmustangracing.com/ We live in a mecca for builders though. Easy to find here.

Well its not that bad for what you have though. I serviced my truck every 8k miles and it was around 125 for a normal service, every other service I would have both fuel filters changed and that was roughly another 100. An 04 F350 is a horrible example of whats reliable in the deisel world. Its the first full year of the 6.0 which is the worst setup maybe ever put in a truck. Although mine went 150k without ever doing a single thing to it but drive it, (not even brakes). Now that the motor was built the truck will probably go a long ass time before the guy has any problems. He may need brakes soon though. lol Shit an oil change on my Benz is $300.