///M5

Silly VW

Bentley Cont Coupe, Maserati Gran Turismo, another Gallardo, Quattroporte S or wait for something more fun.

I keep weighing what to go drive at Morries Luxury.

Of course, I am of the opinion that test drives are great entertainment.

Tough AWD? My ONLY problem with the S5 is this. Even with the V8, it produces 349 HP and it is not a light car. My guess is an E46 m3 would roast it, but I don't know that. I don't know about the reliability, but I am guessing it is ok. It is beautiful, and ok for comfort. It is hard to find a manual, but I probably could. Ther turbo v6 is in the drop top, and maybe that would be the way to go. Power aside, the S5 is about dead nuts as quick as the CTT. It isn't ridiculously fast, but sub 5 second 0-60 and just barely into the 13's in the quarter isn't so bad. Interior is gorgeous as well and within budget. Reliable and an all year car in MN. I'm not in love either, but it fits all the compromises. Worth a test drive IMO.

Not that it was at all on your list.

I realize AWD isn't a complete necessity, but you can't drive a Vette here in winter even with snow shoes I don't think.

V8, 2 doors and AWD is a tough one.

S5?

I'd MUCH MUCH MUCH more trust an E39 M5 over the E55.

I wouldn't turn the dial up on a Benz. Actually I am somewhat done with Benz as I really don't trust my rig.

*I do cheat on one thing though. I do not include gas mileage in my calculation of cost. I should, but I haven't paid for my own gas since 1997.

You should contemplate your operating budget and not just your purchasing budget. Then determine length of ownership and what you want to lose on things before shopping. The benefit of expensive German iron is that the depreciation can be over, so as long as you get something that doesn't rape you in upkeep you can regularly be ahead of something newer that was cheaper to begin with. My M5 to date was BY FAR the cheapest per mile car I've ever owned...and my Silverado by far the most expensive.

I did years ago. I am specifically looking for an 08. All of the woes of the 4.5 are gone in 07 (which wasn't sold here) so the 08 model year is bombproof in comparison to the 04-06. At 30k, you should only be looking at an 06 with EXTENSIVE service records that include the coolant tubes and cardan shaft. Most likely you'll see some air suspension work. An 08 CAN be had for $30k, but it'll be over 100k miles. The other benny of the 08 is that the difference between the S power and not is less than $2k in parts. Flash and an intake basically. On the 06 power adders aren't cheap. As for the S, you don't want one. A brake job will set you back $6k. What I set out to do earlier this month was to drive a couple units with > 150k miles. I wanted to see how they held up. Depressingly both experiences were really bad. Both trucks were owned by slobs though so perhaps that is expected. No P-car should have a trashed interior at 150k...including destroyed seats. That is my concern, although a seat replacement isn't that big of a deal.

It ONLY happens on my pc. My typos happen via mobile.

Why is it only me this happens to?

Yay, emoticons fucking up my posts again.

I've skimped on an IR repeater for my tv so I have to manually turn it off. Actually I bought one, but can't get it to work. Fucking PE. <img data-cke-saved-src="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/sad.png" src="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/sad.png" class="bbc_emoticon" title=":(" />

Ugh, pre-season

No, and they cannot show me a comparable. One of the comparables was from August 11.....before I was even in the accident and they can't even show me the add they saw it in.Fuckers. That is BS, they need to be able to replace it.No they don't. You will get the lowest local comparable price less your deductible if it is a no fault or your fault situation. In a parking lot it is no fault, period. This is a vehicle I am certain has no lean on it and it is over 2 years old so you do not get replacement value. Been there, done that. Total loss is considered 66% of NADA or KBB, whichever is lowest, unless you have an appraised value policy. You can generally buy back a total loss for "scrap value", which is laughable plus deductible. My wife totaled my pickup ~5 years ago (1994 Nissan) and my buyback was over $1100. Ridiculous, as typical scrap value would have been ~$250 and my deductible is $50. Yes, I over insure everything. I was able to repair my truck for ~$150 in parts, a come along, a tree, a hammer and a prybar, some solder and my soldering iron. Fuck body shops. in Mn youcan require a replacement

No, and they cannot show me a comparable. One of the comparables was from August 11.....before I was even in the accident and they can't even show me the add they saw it in.Fuckers. That is BS, they need to be able to replace it.No they don't. You will get the lowest local comparable price less your deductible if it is a no fault or your fault situation. In a parking lot it is no fault, period. This is a vehicle I am certain has no lean on it and it is over 2 years old so you do not get replacement value. Been there, done that. Total loss is considered 66% of NADA or KBB, whichever is lowest, unless you have an appraised value policy. You can generally buy back a total loss for "scrap value", which is laughable plus deductible. My wife totaled my pickup ~5 years ago (1994 Nissan) and my buyback was over $1100. Ridiculous, as typical scrap value would have been ~$250 and my deductible is $50. Yes, I over insure everything. I was able to repair my truck for ~$150 in parts, a come along, a tree, a hammer and a prybar, some solder and my soldering iron. Fuck body shops. in Mn youcan require a replacement

No, and they cannot show me a comparable. One of the comparables was from August 11.....before I was even in the accident and they can't even show me the add they saw it in.Fuckers. That is BS, they need to be able to replace it.No they don't. You will get the lowest local comparable price less your deductible if it is a no fault or your fault situation. In a parking lot it is no fault, period. This is a vehicle I am certain has no lean on it and it is over 2 years old so you do not get replacement value. Been there, done that. Total loss is considered 66% of NADA or KBB, whichever is lowest, unless you have an appraised value policy. You can generally buy back a total loss for "scrap value", which is laughable plus deductible. My wife totaled my pickup ~5 years ago (1994 Nissan) and my buyback was over $1100. Ridiculous, as typical scrap value would have been ~$250 and my deductible is $50. Yes, I over insure everything. I was able to repair my truck for ~$150 in parts, a come along, a tree, a hammer and a prybar, some solder and my soldering iron. Fuck body shops. in Mn youcan require a replacement

So exhausted. My fantasy team rocks though.

My Integra(made by onkyo) is the best receiver I have ever had for the money. It didn't have much fancy shit on it, but it did everything well. It is now the power and management for my audio on the PC. Easiest way to have a sub and speakers hooked up.I like Onkyo as well. Ideally I just need 5-10 channels of amplification that I could independently change inputs on. Though I probably will NEVER have 2 different inputs playing at one time. Though it would be nice to turn off some channels.I've got an Onk and an HTD multi-room/input setup. Was pretty cheap.

Living on 1.5hrs of sleep. Big night up in Fargo last night, but I'm home already. <img data-cke-saved-src="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/Doh.gif" src="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/Doh.gif" class="bbc_emoticon" title=":Doh:" /><br /><br />MUST SHOWER