///M5

4th year in a row they've been hammered early Oct. Next year it won't happen because I will be ready. It's a GREAT time of year for me to use vacation time. In particular on snowmobiling

I almost drove to SD...

Pulled the boat today. Time for winter.

Pics come later.

In particular if you build it.

Easy to keep something custom built for you though too.

Unless there is a really strong financial reason I would skip anything that isn't an R6. My first bike was and is a CBR 954. It is nearly perfect. It all depends on why you want a bike though. If you want to have fun, buy a sports bike. If you want a commuter, buy one. You can make an R6 more commuter friendly but making a commuter bike handle better is a god damn bitch. Yeah everyone I've spoken to has been for or against a beginner getting a 600cc bike.. I would really prefer an R6 but not sure.The real trick AS ALWAYS is to buy something you can sell later for the same dough. Fuck any other advice. Bikes are like comfy shoes. If you've never had a pair you don't give a shit about some. Get your first and you realize everything wrong with anything else and rapidly look for a second. You will want a change no matter what you buy. When you buy wrong you can no longer afford to and give up on the process. I usually buy a snowmobile keep it for 2 years and sell it for more than I paid for it even though it has a couple thousand more miles. My worst move was a $400 loss after riding over 5000 miles on one. I've set myself up to fail on my last though. Just dropped some dough on upgrade parts that I'll have to part back out to minimize the $$ loss, but I plan on keeping this one a lot longer. Will become the backup sled at some point.

Again, answer Lithium's question. Can't recommend anything unless we know.

Scared of Evols myself. My walkers are sweet now though.

I didn't say that, I said that I AM. Huge difference. You should do what you need. Buying/designing something else makes no sense. Doing it to do it is a waste of money as you will find out right when it is done that you wish you'd have done something else. Answer Lithium's question please. Otherwise not sure why you even bothered to make a thread. You obviously want to do something and seem to be going down the path of ignoring any and all advice. I don't get it... Ha, wouldn't call those tutorials. ALL the information necessary is there but holy fucking headache to find.Yeaah, I should of specified but, there is a lot on the Mac carpc scene.And they are all horseshit. Mac & CarPC is the worst combination. Fucking awful.

No, you have engine noise. 99.999% of the time that is a grounding issue. If your amp isn't a complete fucking piece of shit it is fine with less than a 1V signal. Seriously. "Maxing" out your door speakers is somewhat unrelated to your amp or headunit. You'd be surprised how little power can make a drive go into over excursion at a particular frequency. Most likely your settings are all completely jacked, you have unrealistic expectations, or your front stage amp is too small. WAY better to spend the money selling your amp and buying new than to use a line driver. It is really hard to help you when you don't share details. You are obviously confused, being misled significantly by others (whether it be people or websites) and have come to a false conclusion and are going to go that route no matter what gets said. It'd be WAY healthier for you to take a step back, spend some time on a post and really relay what is going on, how you are currently setup, and what your concerns are.

Depends on the suspension. My quad is a race quad with a "fully adjustable" suspension. Spring height, rebound, and compression are all adjustable. But the valving is still terrible. It is supposed to be set up for a 175# rider, but it is still too stiff for my 215#s. The front is actually nice after a ton of playing with it, but the ass end bucks like a motherfucker. If you are hitting whoops you had better be tight with the boots on the engine or you will get tossed over the handlebars. Go too stiff and it will hop and spin in first, and even set soft and low it doesn't get enough dig. On pavement it won't squat enough to grab well either. A good Elka or FOX system will make the ride so much nicer. I am planning on a new shock and linkage this winter. Ha, I had the main orifices nearly doubled in size on the shocks on my sled. Same thing. 16" of shock travel; however, coming off a road approach with 8' of air, an extra 90lbs in gas, my 6'7" frame wearing a tone of clothes, a full tool box and I could manage to compress the shocks about 1/2" with their stock valving. Softened that shit up REAL quick. Still could do 100' triple jumps on it with either no or at least soft bottoming, but the initial few inches now is WAY softer. Actually allows me to click in the ride I want versus running on full soft and crying.

Read the title of your thread. Outside of the emotional reasons you haven't listed ANYTHING that a carpc does better. Not saying it isn't a good solution. Hell if Win8 would pull it's head out of its ass and allow all win8 apps to run on any platform I personally would run one. I'm choosing a more flexible platform in that regard and the side benefit is that it is cheaper.

Your comments above. The only one that made sense was noise bothering you. Some portion of your system is not grounded in the way it needs to be if that is happening. Fat Mat is NOT a sound barrier. Sucks ass at it. That is for stopping panel resonance. Using 200 sqft is overkill and NOT beneficial. You need a barrier to cover the car, not the deadener. You mean your misconception. "Amping it so much" has nothing to do with the signal and is only related to how much voltage an amp can supply. If a .7v input will allow the amp to output ALL of it's voltage without noise there is no benefit in raising the input voltage. In fact personally I'd rather use the higher quality portion to gain whatever the signal was. This could surely mean in your case that the amp is better off turned up a bunch than to be fed a dirty signal. Line Drivers are ONLY useful when you have a shortage of voltage. This will always be displayed by noise or the incapability to actually do what the amp was supposed to do. *excluding line drivers that give zone control for particular applications where differing zone levels need to be dynamically changeable Buying an LD, from what you've told us, would be a ridiculously huge waste of your money.

Upgrading the sound card won't do anything. Not going to exceed what is available on the d/a's in a reasonable car stereo. Music will also play on either.

And my all time favorite winter car. SO MUCH fun to drive in shitty conditions. Just don't want to get walloped by some asshole in a Suburban.

Porsche 944 is more of a Porsche

Can't use that, too nice. ROFL

I've never heard a flat engine that sounded good. This must be a joke. Ever driven one that impressed you?

Less than a week after my BIL asked if I wanted to build an Fact5 818 in my garage if he paid for it. Wanted to split it. Lol.

ANd yay, fuck you internet. No interest in owning that one, but seeing shit like that always tickles my build something itch.

And I just had these pants cleaned from Seth's posts.....Haven't read it yet, but opened and saw the picture. Had the reveletion on Sunday that we are NOT selling our house in the next 4 months for sure which means perhaps I need to find a way to spend some $$ that is somewhat liquid in case we change our mind. And now you tempt me with a toy?

And I just had these pants cleaned from Seth's posts.....Haven't read it yet, but opened and saw the picture. Had the reveletion on Sunday that we are NOT selling our house in the next 4 months for sure which means perhaps I need to find a way to spend some $$ that is somewhat liquid in case we change our mind. And now you tempt me with a toy?

Scan D2904 or Seas Neo are about your only choices. Outside of weird I-boutique brands which have popped some XBL tweets out. Hot dang and the D2904 is kind of unavailable new. Guess I'll have to settle for the Seas Neo and try out mach 5 vs extremis, see which is better above 1k. I didn't mean to discredit the neo options. I just haven't played with them. I have but was not very experienced back then. Not hinting to a discredit just hoping to be able to pair them with the Extremis. Realize that was confusing when I fuck up and type neo instead of XBL. I haven't played with the XBL'ers, might be fine.

Not worried about drop top. Just saw speed at a low price and said hmmmm J My old ass slow M5 would take a Boxster Turbo EASILY. Did from a dig, rolling 30, and 60-120. Walked at all speeds. Things is a turd. That one isn't even a Turbo. Your truck might out run it.