///M5

150 per side on the highs, 150 per side on the low mid bass, 600 total and the word trying was in there. How important is midbass to you? What do you have for processing? How much power and what impedance? How much effort and what are you willing to do to make the install work?

It is horseshit compared to getting a used amp and pre-amp for less. Seriously crap in comparison. At that price point you should NOT buy new.

Only vehicle I have with an aftermarket system atm is my boat and it happily gets wailed by an Xcon.

That is a problem. Need to have a renter for 6 months before you buy...

Why not

10k watts of bass and you want something to keep up but only have $150? Of course the thread is going nowhere. You can't cheat Physics. For your budget a set of off the shelf components will be the smallest compromise.

I can't find dick for less than 1.5M

had many options but Dallas made the most sense.WAY cheaper than here. On that note, I am basically no longer moving myself. Sad about it, but at least the house is "finished"

It is what I run in my office for a stereo, but I'd never run them in a car. Umm, yeah, going to fail there. If you want your front stage to "keep up" with your subs be prepared to spend as much money on them. Way harder to make midbass loud than sub-bass. Going to leave you in compromise central if you are budget strapped. For your budget a standard comp set will prevail. Not a good reason to do something. Put your goals for music first, not your ego.

You'd need more than 20 little 3" full rangers to compete and once you have that many sources near so many reflecting planes you give up so much it makes no sense.

What sort of output requirement do you have? Once you get to a certain level there is really only one solution if you want halfway decent imaging and response and it is to use a horn. Sounds like you have enough space in your doors to fill in below, but that will be by far the easiest method to get loud and maintain a semblance of SQ.

Because Volvo

Once you get your wools "wet" you have permanently fucked them for life. There is no way they will ever iron out again.Does rain ruin them? I haven't ever had them wrecked even when pretty soaked by rain. The dryell is steam. They don't even get damp.. They desperately needed a freshening. Dryell won't freshen shit then. You need a liquid to do that. Dry solvent preferred since the fabric won't soak ANY of it up. Once wool becomes wet/dry it has stretched and deformed.They stopped smelling like sweaty balls and came out cleaner looking. Thank you for the info though I didn't know wool was wrecked that bad after getting wet. Steam is ok though? It is actually the act of drying that creates the biggest problem. Rapidly changing the fiber structure. Wool you can wash is pre-washed before making a garment. Wool you cannot is not. Meaning if the fibers change your garment changed.

There is a way around everything, but that doesn't make it a good idea. Considering the sheer quantity of drivers you want to use your implied goals are somewhat straightforward as well and little low power drivers even with multiples won't yield what you want. Much better ways to give you what you need.

Once you get your wools "wet" you have permanently fucked them for life. There is no way they will ever iron out again.Does rain ruin them? I haven't ever had them wrecked even when pretty soaked by rain. The dryell is steam. They don't even get damp.. They desperately needed a freshening. Dryell won't freshen shit then. You need a liquid to do that. Dry solvent preferred since the fabric won't soak ANY of it up. Once wool becomes wet/dry it has stretched and deformed.

Do they have to be directly on top of each other or can they be directly side by side? Or Maybe with 4 of them in a 2x2 grid patern? Directly. Side by side would be the worst

Not give up, just change of plans.

I have no interest in riding in a city period.

You need to have them directly on top of each other. Good luck doing that in a car...which of course is the reason you've never seen it in car audio.

If you could truly setup a line array, I'd be fine with it but if you can't it'll be an acoustic mess.

Hell for 2.1 you really just need an amp and a volume knob (unless you have more than one source in which case you need a selector as well).

Don't buy a receiver online, your local CL is a WAY better option.

Fuck, I gotta sell the ML.

This is among the first opinions I hear pro-race bike as a beginner bike. Everybody says start out small etc etc. Don't get me wrong, it just makes me curious as to how you can handle all risks of a race bike. If you are a retard that works. The real deal is to start cheap. You WILL lay it down. *knocks on wood since I haven't* Starter bikes are that and light. Also a bit more idiot proof on the happy twist, but that isn't really a deal to me if you have any sort of driving aptitude. Plus, can you imagine how funny I look on a 250?

Once you get your wools "wet" you have permanently fucked them for life. There is no way they will ever iron out again.