///M5

I generally prefer solder though as there are no questions. After using a cheap crimped years ago I question even good crimps. Figure using uninsulated ones wouuld be better too. Obviously I will insulate myself.

Errm, do weatherpacks fit ? I had planned on using some if I NEED to add quick releases anywhere. Do they make single crimp connectors? I have always soldered but high heat and high vibe I've read on snow forums can fail.

Ah, that I am aware of and use as much as I can. My problem is even with the 50 I end up with cropped head shots as I can't get shit for the person in it. That is my problem with the length. I also feel like the 17-55 takes as good of pictures. You lose a step, but that is about it.

Great all arounder doesn't exist

Nice work!

Anyone like any particular high vibration crimp connectors? Stupid sled has disconnects way up on the handlebar, when IMO there should be a big or couple plugs in the console instead. May just hardwire though as I don't care if a replace means rewire.

I have a tamron 28-200 (very old lense) but I'll probably be switching it out for a Tamron 18-270 for a great daily lense.I have an 18-270 and have to bring it to asia since I broke my 17-55. Fuckin' bummed the 18-270 is awful.

Sorry Matt.

If you have to ask, you shouldn't do it. Seriously.

Like it for what?

Unless you are chasing barely audible changes I wouldn't bother. I'd rather upgrade to a better quality amp of the same power than to upgrade for the sake of "potential"

Happy Birthday!

I doubt you'll find a build log. I've never seen one and definitely would have remembered. Uber fun cars to drive. That being said, the BEST money you can spend will be on sound deadening. Saving a dB in noise is equivalent to getting one in output although it is actually even more satisfactory. There are no 4's that will do anything. Share up what you have for mounting locations with some pictures and such and we can come up with an idea. If you aren't upping the alt, you are going to need to be VERY restrictive on efficiency.

And watch them seriously puke and die below tuning. OP, you NEED a sub-sonic. The questions you are asking are too rudimentary to think you can get by without one. If you had a better handle on what happened "perhaps" you could, but it really wouldn't be a good idea. As for the comment on actually answering the question, that is a bit of crap as well. Anytime reading on the site including the terms of service you'd realize that versus threads aren't acceptable here and it is for a reason.

Mathew, good to see you interested in 143040

Yes, but why? They should already be coated. surface rust and a color change

Ordered some black anodized rails, opened the box tonight and they are bare aluminum. aargh. Sent me two bogey wheels of the wrong size as well. That is partly my fault for not checking, but I figure a joint that is in Roseau, MN ought to fuckin' know what size wheels are on an IQR.

And of course the springs. Will do the aluminum pieces in the middle if I can find a low temp cure which I am pretty sure any coater here does just for the snow industry. Can I do the springs?

Haven't googled yet, that is my next step...but need to prep the big black parts here for powder coat. Two concerns are bushings and rust.

And time to go to my niece's bday party!

Speaking of awesome I've got about 5 hours into teardown and all that is left in her is the brake caliper, coolant lines, cdi, & gauges. Okay, outside plastics, but no need for those to come off. Jackshaft is hanging out in a single bearing as well, but meh.

Exactly as stated in my analogy. More money for less result. So WHY is that a good thing?

You might be better off turning that into a ported enclosure for a single 10.

And completely unnecessary. Obviously minimizing the length of both power & ground saves you rish, money and perhaps diameter, but that is it.

I felt the very same thing about 45 seconds ago.