///M5

By that logic, if you plan on using external processing I wouldn't use a deck at all. The OP was looking at a deck that in 3 years will be worth $30. The 80prs in 3 years will still sell used for more than $120. No net negative in my book and IF you ever utilized the active mode it is a great piece. WAY easier and more flexible than the CZ for a noob too.

I can look, but they sell theirs with the kit for like $3 so I'd just buy it.

Get him a custom made shirt. Pre-pay somewhere. Should be able to do it for $100 and it'll be the best dress shirt he's ever owne.d

Not complaining at all. I'm saying at 5am i am enjoying it being 70. The highs have been in the upper 80's. I like hot or cold better than 70It's just nice enough for the women to show a little more skin, and yet comfortable enough with the humidity to not be sweating like a whore in church in work clothes. Also means the ac isn't needing to be on in the house much if at all. J Dude, you are in Florida. At 65 they wear fur coats. There is no skin at 70 unless you are where visitors from the North are at.

That is only the hot side piping. You also need the cold side with an intercooler and all the plumbing. Also have to figure out what turbos you want, fuel system upgrades, oiling system for turbos and other odds and ends fittings and couplersIntercooler, BOV and Turbo may come from elsewhere. I suppose a kit really makes sense though.It is far easier ordering a kit.Talked to Kyle from KB Performance tonight. $4k for a kit. Curious to see what components he is going to include in that.$4k is pretty cheap for a kit. find out what turbos, wastegates and blow off valves are being used and find out if it comes with larger fuel injectors and turbo oiling system. usually a good kit will run you around $5-$6k.No engine side anything...but a kit won't help there since I will not run this on a stock short block.

Since you used a phrase that we avoid on this site, SQ, it is worth pointing out that the Pioneer 80prs is 10,000x the deck that one is for creating a good sounding car.

High vibe applications regularly compression can be better than solder. Corrosion is a huge concern to me though if the joint is outside. Make sure to grease and shrink wrap and run in conduit. If you use a screw down type I would red locktite it as you basically want it glued on permanently. Just make sure it is tight and where you need it, lol.

Do you have any fronts laying around? A great way to start is to take a stock set of components and wire them so you can switch between the passive and active and try to improve how the passive sounds with your active. Great teaching tool for your ears too.

Unless they updated the format the data is transmitted in it won't be better. They were exploring options a while back but BOTH your phone and h/u must have it otherwise it won't do anything for you. Standards like this never change fast nor nicely so checking to see if it all works (if there is one) would be a good idea.

I just always hear people say active is way better and they won't go back to passive. I've only had AQ comps but really didn't have any mid bass. That was last year and I learned a shit ton since then so can't really say the good/bad things about them. I've been using the stock speakers in my '12 fusion. The '13 fusion I will be able to fit 6.5s. Flexibility is NOT always helpful. Do expect that for the first 6 months your active set will sound worse than a passive. It takes a long time to teach yourself how to dial it in. Once you do however though you will never want a passive set that was designed in your car for your car ever again. Still you need to focus on some portion of what to improve otherwise you should probably just start with some seriously cheap drivers and play away until you can describe what you don't like about them.

I think you will find the ANdroid interface FAR superior to the h/u's for scrolling. In particular with 64gb's of music. I carry around 700gb of music and would puke sorting through it on a headunit. Was last years model I demo'd that sounded bad. Easy test for you, go do it with an older one and if it is okay the newer ones shouldn't be any worse. I'd also try the music folder thing. Might be fine for how you manage your music and what works for you is all that is important here.

The only difference that will make to your stage is to further destroy it. Take a step back and tell us what you are trying to accomplish and why and we can help you with the what & how.

Every streaming option I've heard has sounded like utter shit. I'd NEVER do it without auditioning. Personally I could NOT listen to music over it making it rather useless. It is possible they've improved the compression stream as it has been 6 months since I've heard anything, but it was awful.

Location is first. Curious why you want active. Or more importantly what about the previous passive setups you've had are you looking to improve? Need background on what they were as well. Options are limitless but the constraint is always the vehicle and then the budget. Those two are up to you...

That is only the hot side piping. You also need the cold side with an intercooler and all the plumbing. Also have to figure out what turbos you want, fuel system upgrades, oiling system for turbos and other odds and ends fittings and couplersIntercooler, BOV and Turbo may come from elsewhere. I suppose a kit really makes sense though.It is far easier ordering a kit.Talked to Kyle from KB Performance tonight. $4k for a kit. Curious to see what components he is going to include in that.

That one with 87k miles? Hows it feel to own a GM product again? I only did it because Seth convinced me.Sean back in a GM... Roflmao. Perfect use of the webernets I am disapoint TOO

I like hot or cold better than 70

That is only the hot side piping. You also need the cold side with an intercooler and all the plumbing. Also have to figure out what turbos you want, fuel system upgrades, oiling system for turbos and other odds and ends fittings and couplersIntercooler, BOV and Turbo may come from elsewhere. I suppose a kit really makes sense though.

TOp!

I'd like the shop to actually call me though. Obviously a side business for them...

Tired of your BS. Get a pair of 18"s for fucks sake. This!!! Only if I mount them on the outside of the car

<-turbo noob http://www.shop.trickperformanceproducts.com/Stage-1-Hotpipe-kit-Stage-1-hot-pipes.htm And a turbo & tune ought to work no? Thought this might be better that doing all custom. Is that crazy?

I think I'm going to a negotiation seminar in July, father has been and thought it was very well done and well worth the money. Negotiating is easy. It is ALL about listening and never about talking.

The 450x2 vs the 125.2 will make a difference. 125.2 vs JBL as well. Selling the JBL to buy the PPI is a wash. You would also gain some headroom and the capability for a bit more tapering on the eq while not exceeding the amplifiers capability. IMO, the most important place in a car to have power is on your midbass. For the $ invested I'd be interested. The space saved as well. That being said if you already had the JBL installed and had to spend $ to change I probably wouldn't.

wtf? really They consider that stealth? Boo.