///M5

I'd take the K&N off and go back to paper.

Neal I use Torque, has been invaluable.

Here are 8 shots. WD1 ill be the top left page, Wd2 the bottom left, etc, etc, at the right side you have WD7 at the top and WD8 down low. http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd1_zps2811978d.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd2_zps47a5c20b.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd3_zpsbdb5c65d.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd4_zpsd23a41ea.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd5_zps7fbda83d.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd6_zps72fdd47f.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd7_zpsd30cb987.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f93/sandt38/patterns/wd8_zps6a4dbc4c.jpg Sorry but posting the images here shrunk them to unreadable size. Thank you!

There is no "way to go" only a set of compromises for you to make. If you needed a real way to go, then it is put your whole front stage as far away from you as possible, as high up as possible with the tweeter & mid as close together as possible. Once you cannot do any one of those you are compromising. Anarchy is a great midbass and a decent mid. If you are a midrange buff and are okay with having your sub play midbass then it wouldn't be a good choice. It also creates the need for a tweeter that can play low. This usually means a large format tweeter that isn't terribly off axis (on axis in a car usually only works for full rangers). There is a reason we ask questions about your needs, mounting locations, and goals and that is there is no way to go for everyone as everyone has different compromises to make. As for the sound as good as possible, that is also subjective. I can pretty much guarantee what I prefer for sound you would probably find to be seriously lacking in bass, but it is part of my 'as good as possible' requirement. The system should be built for YOU, not anyone else. That of course brings up another compromise. The better it sounds for you the worse it will for your passengers. No spatial way around that.

How far off axis? Generically speaking drivers that excel off axis don't play low.

Start pass banding them narrow and work your way up on both sides until you think backing them down makes them sound better.

Aargh, links work so I am not going back and fixing how it looks.

*note, I didn't read these yet and don't expect someone else too, but thought hmmm<br /><br />Arduinno with digital volume pot + CAN Bus interface = full integration IF there is an analog audio signal coming from the deck. I could split it, run one to the stock amp and steal the other to rework the front stage and potentially sub.<br /><br />http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=154786.0<br />https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10039<br /><br /><br />

Why the hell does this forum fuck up my posts all the time *argh*

No, the stereo should work.

Neal - if you really want to geek out you can do it for super cheap. http://theksmith.com/technology/hack-vehicle-bus-cheap-easy-part-2/

I am curious why you want to know though.

You can measure if you really want to know. All you need is a test tone source (I use my phone) and a meter. Find the 3dB down point and then try the octave and see how many dB down it is. That'll tell you the point and slope.

I'd wait until you've actually listened to your mids on your headunit. Pretty hard to be sure what you need without.

At some point the effort becomes more than replacing the whole thing. I am very interested in it though as I'd love to understand the layout of the electronics package for the truck and what that computer interfaces to and why.<br /><br />Curious to drive a 14 as well and see if the NVH is any different. That update I ought to be able to find out a bit more easily <img data-cke-saved-src="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.png" src="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.png" class="bbc_emoticon" title=":P" />

I guess the only other question is it worth me looking at?<br /><br />If there is no CAN bus volume control on the amp then yes. If there is, I need to find way to get by without a computer or figure out a way to add one.

You'd then need a 4 channel amp and an active crossover for the fronts. One channel per tweet and one per mid.<br /><br />Other option is to improve the install. Midbass is very related to how well you've "fixed" your doors.<br /><br />I would also verify you aren't artificially crossing over the system removing the midbass, pretty common as well.

You just found the use for the ultra high def tv.

*strange seams that is

As long as you don't create too many seams I could probably stitch them back together as well.

If you just want to read faults and reset the standard ones the amazon bluetooth connect to your smart phone reader for $15 works.I looked at them, but figured they were junk. Do you have one of have ever used one? Torque is a decent app. You can snag an adapter on ebay on the cheap as Sean mentioned. Not sure about the unit you linked, but I assume it is similar. OBD2 is standardized so finding decent readers like that is not hard. It really depends on what you want to spend.Really I just want something to play around with and watch motor functions and reset codes when needed. Maybe that is why the one I linked looked fun to play around with.That is what Torq and a $12-15 reader will get you. When/if I put a tablet in my dash that app will be on it for sure. In particular since I already own it lol. Was hoping it would do MEFI systems too, but the government didn't require the marine industry to do anything standard so it doesn't work. Makes me want to rip the tune off the stock ECU and the boat and change it to a standard. Out of all places I want a code reader that is definitely high on my list.

I now feel dumb.

2010 Escalade Base AWD. I'm dying for anything. I've searched like hell, but as always there is stuff on older models and nothing on new. Not a surprise. I would also assume it is a bus as the Lux in the last gen was and moving "backwards" they probably wouldn't do. The amp has a Delco part number from what I can find so far. Having a wiring diagram may just give me the motivation to do something. Wishing I hadn't sold my 880 as it would be easy enough to use a Joyconn to read the steering wheel and use that volume control exclusively saving the knob for the rears only. It really does sound fucking awful. I'll need the RPO numbers from the build sheet. You typically find the build sheet inside or on the back of the glove box, or on the cover over the spare tire or rear package area cover. It will be roughly a 3X5 sticker with a shit ton of 3 digit codes. The RPO numbers I will need to know about are UQS, Y91, and UQA. You will find either one or a combination of 2 of these RPOs. Apparently there were 4 system set up options on the Base AWD Esky. FWIW I glanced at some of the diagrams and based on internal terminating resistors I am going to say most of the controls are BUS based.Has Y91, UQS but no UQA Bumping this so I can look when I get home tonight for you. Trying to figure out a way to send the diagrams to you. There are 4 fucking pages and I cannot get reasonable screenshots...

This might have more output, not sure actually as I haven't even tried to find out yet. Goes to hell too fast.

You have a tablet for all that crap.Has a bigger screen and nearly all my needed capability built in. No internet, but USB music which is huge. 8" screen and a logical interface as well. Long term it will go away as I'd like to replace the whole fucking console with a big screen, but I was hoping the stereo could live as is until that happens. I don't think it can after owning it for a bit. The Mercedes fucking destroyed it.