///M5

Fixing up the interior & suspension will help it more than the motor. Boost goes without saying.

Escalade so far gets better mileage than the ML.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order. Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich. Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level.what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.Nah, a generic tune will work fine for him. He's not beefing up the rotating assembly, so use something someone has already done the legwork on. He's not number hunting, so no real need for the dyno tune. Call some tuners, get a tune, you're done. If you're not satisfied, or want to push it, get a tune later. You're always going to want to play it safe anyways. There are plenty of guys who have a buttload of tunes already and one of them will get you close enough to stay safe. Whomever the dealer is should have the tune for you. I called Procharger direct about a week or so ago. Described the kit, told me the MSRP for the S1 & D1 and gave me the local dealers number. He was quick to point out when offering me the price that the local dealer would beat MSRP and made it sound significant.

GL electronic problems are the worst DVD Read error. Either the disk or dvd player. Google shows it to be the player which I probably could have looked at first. Instead I ripped a backup of the original as I thought potentially scratches were the cause. Fresh disk didn't help. I believe it to be an optical problem. Going to see how quality the dealership that I bought the car from is now.When I worked in a shop we'd have dealerships that would have these issues and just get sent to us to be replaced instead of an OEM replacement, sometimes it can workout in your favor.I'd actually prefer the cash that would be their cost. No labor for them, cash for me. Then I'd replace it. Probably the most fair solution too.

$500 off a procharger for the next 2 days btw.

Gave me what I need where I need to test for sure. No reference to bus volume, but there are separate leads for each speaker from the headunit so perhaps I may be lucky. Only one way to truly find out though. I only spent about 2 minutes looking at them though as I had Aidan home with me all day. Tried to bring him to school, but his 3 home room teachers were all out with the flu and while I mulled over what to do 4 kids called in saying they weren't coming. Figured I'd get our hopefully staying healthy asses out of there. Between that and being end of the year and hosting eve & day my life is jacked atm. Doesn't help the Nav disk took a shit on it today either. I really appreciate the schematics and will surely put them to good use!

GL electronic problems are the worst DVD Read error. Either the disk or dvd player. Google shows it to be the player which I probably could have looked at first. Instead I ripped a backup of the original as I thought potentially scratches were the cause. Fresh disk didn't help. I believe it to be an optical problem. Going to see how quality the dealership that I bought the car from is now.

There have been some people with IE problems and pictures here. An update or browser change I thought resolved it though.

Hopefully a fresh nav disk solves the nav woes. Got the cannot read disk error. Cleaned the disk and backing up to fresh media to give it a shot.

ie, the ONLY benefit is to help your headlights it does NOTHING for your stereo. NO rears and NO cap. If the store you are at recommends either, quit.

Pro Audio amps normally have fans. Beware if you are in the room with them as they will piss you off.

Glad they are working out for you.

Keep in mind it was analogy, so the menutiae may not be 1000%

If you said 130Hz you'd have found your artificial problem. If you didn't set your hp by listening for stress and making sure it was necessary, I would reset it. If they are at their wits end on the low stuff and that is what you want to improve it is a bit different than if you think you are lacking at 300Hz. Tightening up your doors via deadening, mlv, structure, mass, baffles all helps a ton.

The only time I'd run one is if I had a car where the stock ones were expensive.

I drive past the Jolly Green Giant regularly. Right on 394

Consider straight pipes for a moment. Car has 2" exhaust. At some point the diameter restricts flow. 2 ways to make it flow better. Add another 2" exhaust in parallel or make the 2" a 3". Let's remove the exhaust system and use it as a water filter. Attach to the bottom of the tank and open the water. Everything including all rocks and debris less than 2" will flow down the tube, everything bigger won't. Once that tube is stuck, you need another. Some marketing genius now invents a goo. This goo will turn a 3" pipe into something that can catch 2" stuff. If this water poured into something that could seriously alter your health if something larger than 2" went through it which filter would you choose? How about if that goo happened to be cancerous? I realize you can run out of flow on a stock filter. I'd rather run a larger physical size paper than an oiled filter anyday. First mod I did to the M5 was remove the K&N. As for flow in general more flow capability is only needed when the engine has capability to pump more air than it can breath in. Obviously any resistance will rob horsepower as you just made your air pump less efficient. However, thinking that this robbed horsepower is improving your gas mileage is insane. NO MANUFACTURER would ever release a vehicle where when the drivetrain is stock that a simple, free to design in fix would improve fuel economy.

Which app?Torque ProThere is a free one and one that you pay for, which do you like better?Same but some features are only available when you pay. I went free first and "needed" the pay but don't remember why. Only one way to find out.

are you high passing them?

If you buy woofers that work well with those crossovers you won't want to use them active later.

If you are an output fiend, don't expect magic from a little 3" driver. Far cry from the capability that horns offer. No real need for ported as the anarchy will take care of the midbass. Sealed though isn't a terrible idea.

Already invented for monkeys. Learned that on raining meatballs

Which app?Torque Pro

All the testing I've seen has shown no gains over stock these days and the flip side is worse filtering. Stock filters do a better job than a clean and lubed K&N and a non-maintained K&N is a terrible filter. And J, not a fucking chance in hell you went up 2 mpg. There is not a single manufacturer that can leave that on the table today.

To help see if there's anything better as a replacement mid that they sound decent with, temporarily, with my current crossovers. And oh yea I forgot I already had measurement apps on my phone. Duh. Measuring the crossover points will NOT help that. There is no other driver with the same impedance response as the one you have. Crossovers are MATCHED to drivers. If you want to upgrade you need to replace both. If it were an emergency repair or something temporary, ok, but for long term that isn't a good idea.