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Everything posted by ///M5
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4v, 2v doesn't matter. Just get a decent unit with enough outputs and you will be fine. Best budget buy will ALWAYS be used. It actually does make a difference in many installs.. Not always, but if you have noise, 2v preouts will require the noise to be amplified twice as much as 4v outputs. If you have noise, yes... If you don't have noise, probably not.It isn't "if you have noise" but if you are driving your amplifier gain into an area where thermally they aren't quiet anymore. If you have a shitty amp, then yep, you are going to have thermal noise at a much lower level requiring more input. Also, for once contemplate the difference between 2v & 4v in db and then think how often you could have a spot where your amp would have to be in the same position to make the same noise occur between the two. Between that and the fact of how often a 4v head can really output 4v it is a pretty big meh to me as a spec. I wouldn't at all care.
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You are right, I could just go off peoples advice and opinions though. I can model all the subs I want but understanding the model and being able to relay it to hands on experience is a diffrent story. I think i'm willing to take my chance with the Fi Q 12's.Modeling is very subjective... TS parameters change significantly after the suspension on the subs begins to break in. Also, some companies' TS parameters are just inaccurate. Finally, once you put an enclosure in a vehicle it will have a completely different response.Subjective, lol. Perhaps a different word would be in order.
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Test was dumb. Only took into account slang and pronunciation on a few key words. Pretty easy to tell exactly where it was labeling people by reading the questions. Looking at the semantics of audio delivery would have been a much more appropriate way of defining regional dialects. Sort of Linguistics 101.
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4v, 2v doesn't matter. Just get a decent unit with enough outputs and you will be fine. Best budget buy will ALWAYS be used.
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What do you mean? From my perspective this is unrelated to anything else that is said, but understanding what you are implying might help.
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LOC gain question
///M5 replied to lakaiguy's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Took me 5 minutes to figure out how to use mine..And if you are at all related to the general public you are still using it wrong. Perhaps you aren't related. Add to that most O-scopes that people on a car audio forum think are worth buying aren't worth the plastic they were made from and it is even a more off beat recommendation. A little different if you are using a $20k Lacroix of course. -
If he used a clamp and drew ANY conclusions then anything this Taylor does should be taken with a grain of salt. Obviously clueless.
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I have no 6.5's, but about 20 drivers in the basement. I am further confused by your last posts. The SLS is only a dedicated midbass, it pukes above a few hundred hertz. You yelled above you wanted a woofer which plays midrange, the SLS won't do that. Add to that the confusion in size and I don't think anyone has any idea what you are asking for.
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You can or can't hear them? What part is stressed? What have you already tried to improve the situation with what you have? What other equipment/processing do you have available? What is currently installed?
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skarbage /thread
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determine cap size and or power cell size
///M5 replied to ncc74656's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Did you order it? -
Someone obviously did not click the link
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determine cap size and or power cell size
///M5 replied to ncc74656's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Did you change your headlight bulbs? -
Which is not where electric assist accels. Stop & go is where a hybrid works, for your needs a diesel would be more logical.
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determine cap size and or power cell size
///M5 replied to ncc74656's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
I've got one of these and it works pretty well. http://www.tequipment.net/AgilentDSO8104A.html?v=7233 -
Explains why it was so slow and why the car rebounded from a measly sled, lol.
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Not even going 30 either, so there is really no excuse<br />
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If it was a sled he bailed. Jumped off. Only way to explain no brake
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Moron. I MUCH prefer night time actually. That accident would be way easier to have happen during the day when there are no headlights. He had TONS of time to avoid the car...which wtf is it doing on the trails anyways? Surprisingly he wasn't ejected over the car. Then where the hell did he go? I don't see how he could have avoided it either. He appears to be airborne over a small jump. Had nearly 3 seconds to do something and that isn't airborn, suspension motion is A LOT before you leave the ground. Ski's leave the easiest but that requires acceleration which he was not doing.
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And enough room to go around the car, albeit on a rather wicked bank which I probably wouldn't ride out of but I sure as hell wouldn't crash into the car.
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Never even hit the brakes<br />
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Don't know how you could ride that quick at night though and not pay attention
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Never seen a snowmobile with that headlight setup either, nor the mass to move a car back. Must be a UTV or the like