///M5

It'll be throaty, but the cabin better be quiet.

I think you have confused yourself. Describe your concern in dB and you'll understand. If you have xdB of music and ydB of noise whether it is at 2v or 4v and you amplify it, what happens? And no, you didn't say swap your headunit but the reasons you are using for a 4v instead of a 2v don't exist which means that by definition your recommendation of a 4v hu for reducing noise is saying to buy one to do that. Glad you realized actually fixing the source of the problem instead of attempting to put a band aid on it is a good idea.

Glad to help. I'm still trying to figure out the balance between making my Escalade as quiet as possible and making upwards of 750hp Need to hurry up as spring is around the corner...

A wee FTW though. Went to Cub foods to buy a steak. Bought 2 $8 "t-bone's" that had huge tenderloins on them that were gorgeous. Hard to beat $5.99/lb. Then around the corner I see live Lobsters for $5.99/lb. Bought 6 1.25'ers and gobbled them up with a bottle of champagne for dinner.

I work tomorrow

The ONLY thing deadener is meant to do is to stop panel resonances. All acoustic blocking capability of it otherwise is EXCLUSIVELY because it has mass. The problem with it in that application is that it is thick and expensive per unit mass. That being said it also cannot do its job if it isn't DIRECTLY on the surface you want to change the resonance and damping of. Meaning you deaden the metal then cover the interior surface completely with MLV that is decoupled from the outer surface itself. I'm a big fan of contacting Don at SDS.

Still curious what you meant by bypass as neither of those say anything about it. $300 is a lot better than the $700 I've found before, but still hurts for what you get. The Guard Dog unit is interesting to me in particular, seems to be more RFID generic from the look of the transmitter meaning I could probably get one that will fit in my wallet. Not carrying a key at all would absolutely get me to spend $300. If I was only wallet and/or cell phone I'd be a happy guy. No reason if it is truly just RFID that I can't do that. Could also use the same RFID to trigger my house to do something. Going to at least call those guys.

Nothing non-stick should be used with metal, nor with high temperature cooking methods. If you don't already own one, go look at heavy duty all clad stainless pans at a mall store and find the heaviest one of the bunch. Then go to TJ Maxx and get it cheap.

RFID Proximity Sensor Push Button Start There are kits out there for around $250 to add it, but depending on the kits you'd need a bypass if its newer than an 06 $250 I am interested, 2010 so bypass indeed. All I've found was $700+. Curious what you found.Little searching, not sure if these are reputable places but.. http://www.innovativeignitionsystems.com/#!pke-100-u/c237f Definitely a company based in china, or just a guy with shitty English. Found this one also, site is pretty awful but it does look like a better product. http://www.digitalguarddawg.com/automobiles-trucks/push-button-start-automotive/pbs-ii/product looks reputable John from handcrafted Car Audio did one some time ago on an SSR Thanks. Didn't mean to make you search, but I appreciate it.

Deadener won't muffle it very well at all. MLV on the other hand can help significantly. A good sound treatment plan will include both along with a decoupler. I fall into the category of the type though that will do what they can to keep their car as quiet as possible without giving up any performance, beyond that I don't understand.

Laziness? Not at all the case. I park a long ways away from everything, not really due to door ding potential as you can choose what you park next to minimize that, but I like to walk.I just fucking hate things in my pocket and there is really no need for a key in car anyways. I suppose you never buy a car with keyless entry either, nor use it if you have it? That'd be lazy. Let me rephrase. I would not go out and buy a lockset or keyless entry. If my house or car came with it, I would use it, but I don't have any desire or need to buy and install something like that. I was also too cheap to put them in my house

Happy New Year, err birthday!

Then fix the road noise first. I also think you have confused what is actually louder. I doubt it is any louder adding the extra set. Sure some frequencies will be but overall I doubt it unless you changed something else at the same time.

RCA shielding/routing also has a lot to do with noise. Without shelling out quite a bit on RCAs, they're not going to block much if any noise. agreed- i am also running Knu Koncepts cheapest rca's. i run the power and signal as far apart as feasable... dont worry about running rca's close the power wire.Ha, try to run them away from the ground as well please

So you screw up your install and then are worried about voltage on your headunit? Noise created exclusively because of your RCA cables should be addressed by replacing/updating cables.lol.. if you say so. RCA noise from a 4v preout will be less than that from a 2v preout when amplified to the same level, and that's a fact.You are really misinterpreting everything. If the noise is from a source up stream of the rca it will be equally amplified by the amplifier. If it is from the rca then you have an install problem. And again if you think about the dB difference and audible masking it is really rather pointless. Stop regurgitating junk someone who doesn't know what they are doing has told you and think about it for a minute. If you really think that when you have noise from RCA's the best thing to do is to change your headunit, well then you are confused. Solve the problem and stop the ineffective bandaid.

Laziness? Not at all the case. I park a long ways away from everything, not really due to door ding potential as you can choose what you park next to minimize that, but I like to walk. I just fucking hate things in my pocket and there is really no need for a key in car anyways. I suppose you never buy a car with keyless entry either, nor use it if you have it? That'd be lazy.

Love the idea, I hate keys. Bluetooth wouldn't be the favored technology but probably cheaper than doing an RFID setup.

RFID Proximity Sensor Push Button Start There are kits out there for around $250 to add it, but depending on the kits you'd need a bypass if its newer than an 06 $250 I am interested, 2010 so bypass indeed. All I've found was $700+. Curious what you found.

Which is smaller than my cell phone, but between the two I shouldn't need a key as well. And no, I don't even have a key to my house.

But I like to carry as little as possible. Everyone laughs at my humongous wallet.

what does GM call their push button start?* *I assume they have one. I want to ask on forums if they have a better way of adding it. Not having to carry a fucking key is huge. I hate having the keyfob & key in my pocket all the time. Seriously pisses me off.

HNY!! Indeed, that is a very happy New Year!

You should post the serial number too. That would allow you to make sure during a Skar b-stock sale that Kevin isn't trying to sell someone else's blown junk.

So you screw up your install and then are worried about voltage on your headunit? Noise created exclusively because of your RCA cables should be addressed by replacing/updating cables.

You are right, I could just go off peoples advice and opinions though. I can model all the subs I want but understanding the model and being able to relay it to hands on experience is a diffrent story. I think i'm willing to take my chance with the Fi Q 12's.Modeling is very subjective... TS parameters change significantly after the suspension on the subs begins to break in. Also, some companies' TS parameters are just inaccurate. Finally, once you put an enclosure in a vehicle it will have a completely different response.Subjective, lol. Perhaps a different word would be in order.Some people swear by modeling. It's simply not accurate most of the time, though. Unless you're pulling your own TS parameters AND taking the vehicle in to consideration, I suppose.Which has nothing to do with subjectivity. As for the rest, user error/stupidity is a problem but welcome to life on that one.