///M5

Going to love the Zcons. Don't buy the PWX's though as they are rarely even reasonable for any car install. As for what to buy it would help to know more about what locations/processing/budget/goals/likes etc are.

wich would be better all around for the sub? a bigger or smaller enclosure?in your case the manufacturer's recommendation

It is supposed to be, but it really isn't. Buy silicone utensils.The nonstick I have claims to be metal utensil safe but I still don't use metal on them. I would not recommend cladded SS to someone unless they are an experienced cook. (I have a SS set also) I have a set of cast iron thats great for cooking proteins too. http://www.anolon.com/shop-anolon.html?Brand=Anolon+Advanced This is the brand I have now. What brand/set did you get? Swiss Diamond. Solid set. My wife scratched up the 10 inch pan with metal spats. We have a set of Oxo silicones but she wouldn't listen. There is nothing you need a metal stirring device for that should be cooked in non-stick. Hell I'd go so far to say there is nothing that should be cooked in non-stick period. I have an All Clad non-stick pan that I maybe used in 2013, but perhaps not. My wife uses it for reheating leftovers slowly which is a valid use.

Not reading the whole Kluwe thing, but he was one of the highest paid punters, had a mediocre year followed by a shitty year, and rebelled in nearly every meeting and publicly ridiculed the coaching staff around Minneapolis. Sure it was because he is a proponent of gay marriage. Minneapolis per capita is more gay than San Fran so that seems likely. What a cock fart.

Holy shit! Are you okay?

I suppose you guys can measure nanometers with a yardstick too? Probably report the digits all the way into tenths at the same time without declaring any uncertainty. Real logical.

I'd take it all. Wtf. We never get big storms Luke you guys

Completely re-arranged the house yesterday. Turned a living room into the dining room and the dining room into a family room. I REALLY like the difference.

Working on it. Slowly. I should have put boots on for the garage, but was stubborn. Good reason to come inside and dick around for a few though.

Speaking of snow, time for me to don some garage clothes and go hang out in a 15F garage for a few hours.

SEND IT BACK!! Thief!

Aha, I now understand why you are confused. Ignore the amp. It doesn't matter for this discussion on headunit pre voltage. Assuming it does its job it will only amplify the signal and the noise equally. This means of course that the SNR ratio on the lines going into the amp are what will make it different. ie, if you have a given RCA induced noise whether the headunit outputs 2v or 4v it will be the same ratio all the way until your knob exceeds the 2v the other headunit can output.

Boo. When sitting at the gas station, if I turn the car on accessory power it plays the radio for about 2 minutes and then says start the car the battery is low and shuts off the stereo. My luck with GM continues. And yes, I realize this is not a GM thing, but seriously 2010 and the battery is shot? My M5 had the original battery in it when I bought it.

Ah, I was confused since your first post was right. 60-300Hz is a midbass. Midwoofer can be either a midbass or a midrange, but generally I'd consider it a midrange. If you are truly stuck on 6.5 then the Peerless will fit, but at slightly larger sizes (maybe even nominal) there are equal if not better choices.

And the 2v head unit will be putting out roughly half as much voltage as the 4v head unit at any given volume. My argument still stands. I don't quite consider something an "old wives tale" or "snake oil" if it is a fact. First off perhaps you should compare voltage to dB's. I tried to hint that to you before as it will be insightful... Secondly, if the noise is the SAME (which if it is RCA induced whether you change head unit or not) the ONLY time there will be a difference is when the headunit exceeds 2v's. Otherwise the SNR will be exact same noise level as compared to the output level, so ie, below 2v there is no difference.

Air coupled energy is REALLY inefficient though

Only with a single transducer

We do that at frequencies up to 20MHz to excite resonances, focused energy ftw.

Your argument is even funnier when you consider how long you spend above 2v on a headunit that even has 4v out. Log volume controls don't really allow the dubious benefit you even describe unless you are full bore in which case the noise won't be an issue anyways. I'm just trying to make sure the OP doesn't get confused by a recommendation that could be meaningless to him. So many poor old wives tales and snake oil in audio that doesn't fly here.

I put no words in your mouth, that is all you. You claim it works, but then works for what? As a reminder, this is what started this all. So again, if you have NO RCA induced noise there is no benefit in upping your voltage now is there?

Sounds like road noise is your biggest problem. Spend your money on acoustic treatments and remove the rears and then see where you are at.

Stop confusing things. The only noise it helps with according to your posts is IF you are a poor installer and have RCA induced noise. Otherwise the SNR stays the same. So by saying a 4v hu will help reduce noise over a 2v hu you are trying to solve the RCA induced noise (that you yourself say you don't have) by swapping headunits. Completely bass akwards methodology if you ask anyone scientific. If you create a problem, solve the problem don't mask it. As for the higher quality, that is subjective unless you define what higher quality is. Pretty sure you haven't measured the frequency response of both 2v and 4v units to say that. And if there is no difference in FR, what is this quality you speak of. Also not so interesting to see you waffle and change arguments part way through. If it is for noise, define this noise otherwise your recommendation is dubious at best.

Bristol Bay king crab = yummy. Cooked on the boat and frozen once without ever being thawed. National average is something like thawed refrozen 7 times. Ugh.

I think you have confused yourself. Describe your concern in dB and you'll understand. If you have xdB of music and ydB of noise whether it is at 2v or 4v and you amplify it, what happens? And no, you didn't say swap your headunit but the reasons you are using for a 4v instead of a 2v don't exist which means that by definition your recommendation of a 4v hu for reducing noise is saying to buy one to do that. Glad you realized actually fixing the source of the problem instead of attempting to put a band aid on it is a good idea. I haven't confused myself, but I appear to have confused you. I presented facts showing how higher voltage preouts are superior for minimizing some sources of noise. I'm talking about noise introduced after the preout source, not from the preout source itself. Personally, I don't have to worry about such noise because of my choice in interconnects and routing, but many people do have noise issues. A head unit that costs slightly more will often be more practical than buying multiple sets of high priced RCA interconnects. Yes, the noise will still be there, but it won't be as noticable. Ah, so now you finally just come around and admit it. No need. Curious why you recommended it then?

I would vote that the title of this thread get edited. Because of it I didn't read it. Many others should.