///M5

Hmm. Easiest way for more bass is more box. If that is truly all you have for space you are going to have a problem getting a 12. I would bet you will also be not super happy with the output.

Not buying another

She has an X3...with a brand new motor lol

I want a different car to put one in.

Quality is a buzzword and subjective. Important yes, but you should describe what about the quality you would improve otherwise it is sort of a generic request that leads down a rabbit hole. Exactly why we asked what you had before and what you wanted to improve. We would like to help you meet YOUR goals, not ours

DSP is going to cost more than the headunit...and if you keep your current plans you need two of them. Generally speaking you should never install anything behind you besides a sub. If you can move the mids so that 2 are in each front door it would be WAY better than 1 in each door. It would also greatly simplify the needed processing.

Austin is nice.

First time I've ever seen anyone say that.

If you get an on the air that is actually fit and comfortable they are worth it...otherwise tough. Hearing aid place here makes custom insert for the plantronic units, just replaced my 18 year old one and plan on running over for a new mold here next week. That being said, if you are looking not for work and on your dime that may not be appealing.

Yeah, that sounds reliable.

10 channels? Yikes. Not sure that exists. Where are the Evils mounted? Curious why you want different processing for all 4 tweeters although my guess is because you have them in different locations...which may lead you to not liking my next recommendation and that is to just unplug the rears.

Pretty easy to improve on the P1. Sounds like it is mostly output you are focused on which is good to know. Let us know what size box and space you have and that will make choosing easier.

IIRC there is a TuneIt and TUneItPro or something. You need the Pro if that is the case. HP only on the mids will NOT work.

I find the PRS controls easier though.

Tune it is fine...if you have band pass or minimally a LPF for the mids.

Even at $100, I'd buy the PRS. The processor addition will cost you more than the difference if it is convenient enough for changes at the headunit. Alpine is fine, but you have to get a unit with Bass Engine Pro.

As for the clarification you asked from me, box is important for a few reasons. A great sub in a poorly sized/built/designed box will sound worse than a crappy driver in a perfect box. You asked about what impedance to buy. This depends on your amp and of course how many drivers you are going to put in your car. Considering the factors you really need to know/verify that the box you plan for will work before driver shopping in order to make sure you buy what you need. You stated "I have had a ported rockford fosgate sub P1 before and liked it decent enough". I would also be curious why you aren't using another P1 and setup like you had before if it was okay for you...not that it is a recommendation, but it is always good to know what about that setup you are trying to improve (if that is your goal) before pointing you too far in any direction.

The prs is a GREAT first active unit. Graphic eq instead of parametric including independent Left & Right adjustments. Killer sound is easier on it than almost any other processor...just don't use the auto-tune function as it is terrible, but that can be said about all of them.

What a Volvo looks like compared to an American car the Mazda does compared to the Japanese (non-premiums). Exactly my point. Of course Volvo seats > all. Just wish they would give real motor options in the XC90 as I'd be glad to drive one of those

Controlling your crossovers on your amplifier SUCKS. Super hard to make changes quickly and hear what they can do. The 800.4 also does not have the needed crossovers to do this. The matrix is pointless with a modern headunit. What format head unit do you need? Single/double/custom din? I am not familiar with the 96 Jeeps. Personally I would shop for a head unit that is fully active capable.

We should really start with your box and goals, then a sub is easy to recommend. JL makes nice stuff, but the bang for the buck on them is far less than the SSA models. As for which impedance to buy, you need to know what your goals are so that your choice of sub doesn't limit your amplifier choices. They come in various coil configurations to allow for logical loading on an amplifier. ie, if you buy a 2ohm stable sub amp it would be not so logical to have a sub or set of subs that would only allow you to load the amp with 4ohms (or 1ohm or anything other than 2 for that matter).

active!

I think they would put distance amongst all the non-German luxos.

Yes. Isn't that how you read what I typed above? Mazda needs one

:welcome: Let us know how we can help. Going to love those Evils!