///M5

Real stainless is not magnetic and therefore a fail on induction. Same with aluminum. Of course no one should ever cook on aluminum.

Stop focusing on using subs for midbass and instead focus on where you can make a difference. With the midbass!

And copper is by far the best pan material.

I'd like to see you wield your 8" before making a comment. http://www.metrokitchen.com/product/HK-34183-203?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=scs&utm_term=HK-34183-203&mr:trackingCode=FC3032E4-BBD4-E011-87D9-001B21A69EB8&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=m&mr:adType=pla&mr:ad=34655100248&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:filter=60521163608&gclid=CLaZm7e00rwCFa9aMgoddEwABg Fuckin' awesome, only I am surprised he is toting an Arctic Cat. Cheap gas is worse than good electric. Energy savings can be a HUGE difference. Induction is also electric and stays cool, safe and with the right pans is as fast if not faster than gas. Gas is also very dependent on good cookware. It is much easier to cook with shitty pans on electric as by nature the heat is more even. Once you have a good pan you take that BS out of the equation. As with car stereos asking what is best or better is futile, describing what you need and expect out of something will point in the right direction. 5 years ago, a buy in on a gas rangetop was about $2500+. Cost is a huge proponent of not gas. And yes there are cheaper ones but they aren't worthwhile.

Your blade curved more than mine?

The 2 was my argument for not buying 12's...

Onions & Tomatoes always tell me when I need a hone.

A chicken thigh I can get through with my 4 or 5 if I really line it up right. The 10 makes it easy peasy

Trying and having trouble? Thick onions give me grief and with a longer knife I could slice flesh easier.I use the 10" for slicing garlic, strawberries, hand peeling olives etc. I don't really need smaller knives. If I do a lot of something I may grab a specialized blade, but it normally takes me longer to grab than the extra time with the big knife. What sort of cuts are problematic in the onion? Knife pull through too hard or?? On a larger onion I'm nearly on the heal of the blade. Vidalias or similar are a nightmare unless I make them smaller before mincing. Halves are too big. The chicken thighs are a great example. There is just enough length to make a slice, if I have the blade a mm short I end up with not enough length to slice through. Have you hit them with a stone recently? I realize that is no longer cutting when you push, but I use about 1" of a blade to slice and onion and I am all the way through.

Balance is comfort to me. I want to feel like whenever my hand moves the blade follows. I basically chop by feel and only need my eyes to line up the first cut. Before being competent I always thought that chef's who took their eyes off when cutting to "show off" were stupid, actually the opposite. If you don't learn to feel the knife sliding on your knuckles then you haven't learned how to hold the blade yet.

. Stupid knife handle. I like all of my knives with that traditional D shape from most Japanese knives. Never tried an octagon though. I am immune to the shape, just need some size. If you REALLY like the shape you probably need to relax your hand more. Handle portion has nearly no tension on it. It is just a balance point, the work is done with the metal.

I feel retarded with an 8 now. Slows me WAY down. 10 is A LOT to get used to. For dicing onions it is almost scary as you are using the tip of it and generally have that little fleshy spot between your thumb and pointer finger VERY exposed. If it is crosscutting an onion it may be time to sharpen.

Trying and having trouble? Thick onions give me grief and with a longer knife I could slice flesh easier. I use the 10" for slicing garlic, strawberries, hand peeling olives etc. I don't really need smaller knives. If I do a lot of something I may grab a specialized blade, but it normally takes me longer to grab than the extra time with the big knife. What sort of cuts are problematic in the onion? Knife pull through too hard or??

So it isn't as much of a mess as it would appear to a car "idiot" (me)?No, could be 5 min worth of unwork

If it is just the cap then it isn't that big of a deal. Real question is what and why.

Hell when mine was apart it was in the kitchen.

That isn't how I'd leave an engine

Didn't cut myself with the blade, but from holding the knife. I am really opposed to blades that aren't rounded a bit on the back.

Regrettably this one wasn't as comfy in my hands. http://shun.kaiusaltd.com/knives/knife/premier-10-in.-chefs-knife I tried EVERY 10" knife they have at Kitchen window. Sharpest wasn't my goal at all, but the most comfortable. In my big arse hands that felt the best with the Global nearing the worst. (I own a full set of Global's ) Julienned and then chopped 2 huge bags of carrots. Left with a bloody finger.

I bought this one: http://shun.kaiusaltd.com/knives/knife/classic-10-in-chefs-knife

What are you trying to cut? I use a 10" French style chef's knife *off to get a link

2 12's isn't terribly different budget wise from 15's You modelled the 15's in the same size box as the 18 Seems to me you need to decide whether saving money is how strong of a driving factor.

Since I had the problem I have: Tested compression - 110/111 on a shitty free rental tool from O'reilly with a 18" hose. I would guess that stock is around 125-130 on a real tester. Cleaned the carbs. All seemed good. Checked all the power connections and replaced crimps with solder & heat shrink. Traced all other wires for a fault. Cleaned the variable exhaust valves. Changed plugs Changed the coil New fuel line & filter When it first happened I was at about 1/8 tank of gas. Right afterwards I filled up. I don't suspect shit in the gas because of this.

I am guessing the power wire by the hood melted after it was running bad. When it first started to run bad it was only above 40mph. I jumped a road approach and came down so hard that the pipe popped off the Y pipe. Needless to say I am guessing that is when the wires melted. Insulation melted off a yellow and it is pretty close to the hood hinge. May or may not have touched it. Gre wire also melted and was touching yellow for sure but that is to the headlight "low" wire in the hood but is actually just taped off so lows now shut the headlight off. Works as a better signal than hi/lo and I always run hi's.

Some other details that could be pertinent. 1) Ran fine last year 2) Upon initial startup I did not have my hood on. My hood has my only non-LED bulb (ie current pulling). Tail light flashed on/off while running without the hood. My tail is a standard string of LED's. Tail light runs through a voltage divider to drop the voltage so that it only gets full 12v (AC btw) when the brake comes on. 3) During my running like shit for the 10mi I ran it home my gauge lights (DC after rectifier) stayed on. 4) Yesterday at idle my gauge lights were fine any throttle and they shut on/off 5) Today at idle the shut on/off 6) Found a potential short on a Yel (power) wire near the hood. Melted by the pipe. Did my reg just die a short death? It is my understanding there is a light bulb in these that normally FAILS. Obviously there is some sort of current soak as well. No idea what it is. Just two wires going to it and one is chassis ground the other the is yellow which is normally standard power.