///M5

To add more fuel to the topic, Brad outlines what happens on a driver level but you also need to consider human anatomy. At low frequencies the brain can determine phasing differences in a signal due to interaural time delay (since there is space between the ears) and at higher frequencies we tend to lean toward level differences between the ears to hear directionally. This effect is also not linear and can be greatly influenced by overall level. At high SPL and high frequency this can go to hell as well. Put a CO2 sensor in every outlet in a room, have one go off and try to find it - not so much fun at night... Either way mix the driver response, with anatomy and your general statement is really far from reality. What is the cure? It comes back to this intelligent installation we keep referring to that you keep ignoring and instead are focusing on adding drivers (and more mess) to the equation when you haven't yet reached the 101 stage. You really should start passive. Anything active is obviously miles beyond what anyone at your shop can comprehend.

They compress the shit out of my manhood

I am thinking a passive component set is better for you at this point. Work on your installation

Liquid marshmallow rofl

Ought to last a bit

$320

Just bought 60lbs of coffee, lol

Wow. Need to take a step back again. You can't run active without a separate channel for EVERY driver. This isn't really bi-amping but directly having an amp channel for each speaker. Car companies regularly don't build things for IB either, they take some off the shelf POS and private label it. There are exceptions, but don't get too giddy about them. And no, Pro Audio drivers are generally horseshit in cars and always require a ported enclosure. You aren't ready to deal with that. What you will need are some "normal" drivers that you mount correctly in a door. IB it will be. Anything else is too much to bite off, in particular when you should be redoing whatever you do months later. ...and again, the more questions you ask the more obvious it is that a 3 way will be one of the biggest fails ever, don't.

WinISD won't let you input "rounded" values from T/S listings. Only need to enter the ones that aren't calculated. Don't use the "auto" box design for anything.

A Timur's Kernel ripped Nexus 1 would do everything you describe if you like an Android in the dash

You mean too gorgeous

My guess is that done will will cost more than the egg. Lol And be super kick ass. I need to build a screen in porch first.

Why would they hate that?

I seriously wish they just made an app and let you supply the tab. The hardware is limited, but if it does everything you need a neat solution. For the $$ it is more effective to homebrew a solution, but an off the shelf option is sweet.

They all need new gaskets. I have some material that rocks for that. You better double check. I still have more

And just to be clear, the whole premise is absolutely wrong as well.

There are no rules of thumb that work in car audio. EVERYTHING is vehicle dependent. As for the idiots at the shop, google Alpine F1 Status and then the Scan Speak Revelator. Then you will understand the retarded markup and ridiculousness of the car audio world. The status is a great component set, but it is still not optimized for any one install which is the detriment of running passive in a car. And seriously, stop with the fucking 3 way. You have already distanced pretty much everyone else who could help you with the idiocy and you are pushing me too.

Ouch. I thought you worked at an audio store. That is NOT an installation but a fucking mess. If you do that with ANYTHING it will sound like SHIT. Time for you to stop thinking about drivers and do some research on installing. Stop believing the moron that tells you these things. It is absolute horsecrap. Maybe you should forget the 3 way altogether. You are not capable of it. Not even close. Not sure how many times we have to tell you it is going to sound like shit. Shit, shit, shit, shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit,shit. Get it? Instead why not buy some processing, some cheap diy drivers and build up a good two way. Figure out how to tune it and what you don't like and then upgrade the drivers appropriately to fulfill YOUR desires. Would be WAY more cost effective and sound WAY fucking better.

I'd actually just build a brick oven with a second chamber above for smoking. Would give you the capability to rip pizza's and such on stone, have a permanent "salamander", and as long as you put airtight insulated doors on it a great smoker. A tapered chimney to help the convection would be a plus. As an adder I'd be putting in a natural gas burner as well so I could fire at the flip of a switch for non-smoking applications.

They all need new gaskets. I have some material that rocks for that.

If you aren't going to move it a DIY will really work nice.

The Viking C4 is ceramic wrapped in stainless with another ceramic insert for the firebox

Bricks would do the same. If I had half a brain I would have just built one myself.

Ok Alton Brown

Tell me the flavor profile of things you like. I also recommend going for the largest ring size to really open up the flavor profile. I need the largest cock ring too, otherwise it hurts