///M5

I can't wait to upgrade the transmission mapping. All the shifting is bogus. Shift when I stand on it, otherwise don't please.

I don't think anyone here drives like me.

/\ -> WAY better Then you should have shared it. Second post regurgitates the specification, not what you have to deal with. Starting with YOUR space is the first step. Should happen way before even shopping for a driver. Doesn't make it a good choice either. See both Lithium's post and mine. Clearly not ready to even choose. When you also state what you think you will gain by doing the monstrosity you propose you will finally realize the futility of it as well. Not sure why you choose to listen to misinformation as gospel, but when people want to actually help you close off.

Don't think that exactly falls underneath the Crap genre hehe Sure it does... Quality on those recordings is awful. I shouldn't listen to things in my office I guess.

Won't help it corner.

Wrong direction

FyllSizeChevy had some good knowledge and typically good deals in the classifieds when I was around. PerformanceTruck & TahoeYukon are much more geared in that direction, but sorting through the bullshit is tough.

Just the beginning of the project, lol. Still trying to decide how much of a short block I want to buy/build and how much boost to run. What ECU programmer and boost controller. Wish it were obvious. Feel like a NOOB.

Where you are reading is confusing you. Let's start in the beginning. What possible benefit do you think you will achieve versus using the same space for something else? And beware quoting the LSDC unless you are using things in exactly the same context...

Good looking kit. Dropped spindles is the best way to go. Maintains linkage geometry. Progressive coils are a must! Eurothane may be a bit noisy and stiff, but will last forever. Bushings are just for the end link kit in the rear. The cones are the new bumpstops to get some travel back. Should be good. One piece is still en route and that is my adjustable Panhard Bar.

1250 2x a week is nice. $100 per car is useless and bullshit. 8 cars is a REALLY good average yearly for most places. ie, you never hit ANY bonuses. You should ask how many guys hit the 10+ unit bonus per month. Used car sales? 10 is close to expected. New car, not so much. If that pay scale was for used, then I'd run like fucking hell. Used cars should still be commissionable.

Missed my point completely. Enclosure recommendations are on the "enclosure recommendations tab" here: http://products.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/xcon.html Point was doing something to do something different is dumb. Can you successfully autocross a minivan? Sure, is it logical? No. Can you transport your 10 member family to the mall in a Corvette? Sure, but it will take a lot of trips. Both of those ideas would be different. Are either good? No. If you posted them on a transportation forum do you think people would support them? The bummer is if you post their audio equivalent on SMD someone will support them because somehow being different is cool even when it is idiotic. Same here. Start with your space. Read the rec'd optimal ported enclosure size for your sub. For an Xcon 10 that is 1.5-1.75cuft 27-34Hz. Realize the 27 is there so people don't 86 the sub as a choice and pick a more logical tune like 30-32Hz. With the space you have and the power you will use it is very easy to calculate the mach of the port. If you have space make it conservative, if you don't have the space weigh your compromise. Of course personally I'd do all this WAY before I bought a sub. First step with any step of any audio installation is always what is the space and what particulars of the space do I need to account for. Until that is conquered nothing else matters. For instance, if you have the space for a 10" TLine in your car it would be really, really, really, really, really, really, really stupid if you bought a 10" driver.

That'll be a fail. So much terrible misinformation on SMD it is sickening. Yes, huge it will be...and a waste in a car. why would it be a fail? and why a waste in a car? Didn't you read your other thread? More expense, more time, more wasted space, won't help hit the targeted response, first attempt won't work, will look ridiculous, hard to fit.... The real question that you should clear up for your self is why you stated, "all specs lead me to believe that it will sound amazing in that type of box." Somewhere on SMD they are confusing people, because that is not the case. Curious why you think so, once we know it'll be pretty easy to show you why its not.

Cadillac Revenge

There is no spoon fed answer that works. EVERYTHING is a compromise. If you find an answer elsewhere where they don't take into account information regarding your constraints it'll be even worse than what you designed. Port area isn't so tough. What is tough is understanding how sensitive you are to chuffing and if you care about tenths. Once you get beyond that just design it so that there is a reasonable mach. Only way to find out your ears sensitivity to chuffing is to build something and see. Plenty of rules of thumbs but like all of them they are wrong for the majority of situations. The best thing you can do is build the recommended enclosure on the site for your sub. Tell us what you like and don't like about it and then build another that solves those concerns. Getting a subjective opinion on the best layout for something without any background is uber useless. They are also good designs to learn what works and doesn't. You can tell how bad other forums are at representing what is good. The number of 4th order BP, T-line, Octoport, and so on enclosures that get recommended is stupid. I've yet to see a single one of them done in a way that would even be as good as the standard boring manufacturers recommended ported enclosure. So, if you go anywhere and they recommend ANY of those, run like hell.

HBD Mark!

The guy you got it from has no idea what he is talking about. That'll be a fail. So much terrible misinformation on SMD it is sickening. Yes, huge it will be...and a waste in a car.

I fucking hate hearing that. Hell the guy who sold me my Tundra made shit easy for both of us. 'I can do the figure your asking for, but at that price I lose all of my comission. Lets meet in the middle. You save some cash, I make my comission. Everyone wins.' Was he full of shit? Somewhat, considering it was brand new. Did it work to hear some honest? Fuck yes. J And here is where it failed. He lied. You just thought he was telling the truth. He told you what you wanted to hear. That btw is not an effective sales methodology.

1250 2x a week is nice. $100 per car is useless and bullshit. 8 cars is a REALLY good average yearly for most places. ie, you never hit ANY bonuses. You should ask how many guys hit the 10+ unit bonus per month.

Classic line at dealerships here now. "I am not paid on commission". That is a turn off for me.

I've only worked a commission and negotiating dealer though, not the numbers ones.

per unit of performance that is

Assuming everyone gets paid the same....which used to be the norm at dealerships.