///M5

It is impossible for me not to modify a car. It wasn't impossible for me on the ML, but that was a lease that I was turning in so I new it was money I was throwing away. Plus, holy fuck is shit spendy for it. Exactly why I wanted to buy some el cheapo 'merixan iron so I could have some fun. Will finally allow me to build a real stereo and have a build thread again too.

Tweeters are definitely not the cure. Car audio tweeters that come with crossovers (which you'll need) are almost always crossed so friggin' high that they rarely can do anything positive. Really need components. If you only had a little money now, your best bet is to deaden and improve the factory installation as it is horseshit.

That doesn't say much, most people are idiots. Look at the proliferation of Bose and Apple products. Yay! I just spent a lot for shitty sound!! Even more confusing to me for someone who used to run a sound board. I did the same and have done a ton of recording. I LOVE studio monitors for mixing and of course having rears in your car is about the absolute opposite of that. All money spent and ego aside, when something can be improved it is worth embracing. If your ear is like you say then you should have no problem proving it out. You should also have no problem listening to the 6x9's on the market to realize that they are so lackluster that they are basically pointless anyways. You've got enough channels and an ear, so use those channels to run your fronts active. Will really open up what you can do.

And now I have to make dinner for 14. Aidan turns 5. HOLY SHIT did that time fly.

I'll probably have to part my truck out when I finally sell it,

And there is the problem. Modified the daily driver. I am fuxored.

Ha, Satisfied makes a set of pads for my truck for $13. Oh hurry. Delco $200 for F/R Delco Rotors $260 F/R Hmm, 10% of what I paid

Like the Caddy. It needs brakes...and bad now. 10k miles since I bought it. I of course could see that from when I inspected it on the lift, but still others wouldn't have. In my case though it is a get to. Didn't hurt my negotiations either.

Trick is predicting it ahead enough so that you aren't an asshat for misleading someone

That is the only problem with older higher mileage cars. When they are ready for one thing it is three and all of a sudden you need to drop 1/3-1/2 the price of the car. Makes a flip almost seem logical.

Only somewhat kidding.

Brakes and clutch are due on the P5. Sell it

Straight out of Affalterbach *poses like EasyE

Some helper bags for the rear and the panhard bar aren't in the pic as they came with the brakes, but between the whole setup it ought to change how the truck feels completely. Aufrecht Melcher and Grossaspach edition on ze way.

Exactly. Headphone analogy is backwards. Mimic a 2chn setup, not rears.

Strut bars and all that shit too? J Spindles, shackles, springs, sway bars, panhard bar, etc.

givin it. get it done ya know

I never claimed to drive hard. Just not one to do only motor. I want this pig to turn, stop, and go as well as a 6600lb land yacht can.

Usually you can just slap on some pads and call it a day if you do it before they create problems.

Yep, I've had some over 100k and some less than 20k

Best tablet hu you can buy

They are slotted and drilled. The tech said on the trucks it is what he'd recommend for the street. Never seen a set crack and they deal with all the weight and associated heat better.

Tech I spoke to at Wilwood says on the Chevy BBK he's never heard of a cracked rotor. Their site isn't as nice in saying the same, but from here: http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechFaqs.aspx Rotors Back to Top Q: What's the difference between slotted and drilled/slotted rotors? Which rotor will be best for my application? A: PSlots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to “glazing” and the slots tended to help “scrape or de-glaze” them. Also, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “outgassing.” When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but a significant reduction in friction. Normally this only happens at temperatures witnessed in racing. However, with today’s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer a concern with pads designed for racing. So in the final analysis, drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications, slotted is the preferred choice. With certain pad material, slotting can help wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the coefficient of friction between the rotor and the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage; however, for street and occasional light duty track use, they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.

no disadvantage according to wilwood I give them 6 months to a year and they'll start cracking. But do check on those washers. The drive pins with flat washers float allowing the hat and roster to expand since they are made from different materials. They will chatter if you don't use cupped washers. We used Willwood for years on our track cars until we upgraded to StopTech. Interesting. After they told me that I searched and couldn't found shit to none for cracked cases on trucks.

no disadvantage according to wilwood